3-Pedals

To be clear, car does engage D and I can see rears turn and brakes work. It just seems to keep warning me to put it in park. I m guessing its those ride height sensors that freak out when the suspension is sagging because car is not on the ground.

Flo89

Next time I have to flush my brakes (after the next trackday) I would like to replace the bleeding valves with new ones.
Can I just remove them (BEFORE I apply any presure) and put the new in and then start the bleeding or is there something I have to be aware of?

GrantG

You can do it (will likely drip some fluid where you don’t want it), so clean quickly.

Best way to change any component in the braking circuit without leaking fluid is to lock brake pedal stationary and partially depressed with broom handle or reversed clamp between pedal and seat and release pressure (open bleeder while connected to hose and reservoir bleeder bottle).

You don't want to depress pedal all the way. Partial brake pedal travel (while keeping it fixed) will prevent draining the main reservoir.

3-Pedals

Well I’ll answer my own question. The error message was simply because I was engaging gear while door was open. Its all good now. No leaks from the brakes.

konrad h1

No this one is :-)

900fc

Castrol SRF is probably the best fluid for tracking performance but short life (6-12 months). If you don’t track, road only, I would got with a more durable fluid. I use my car both spirit driving and track days, I use Motul RBF660 (Castrol SRF is better but I never got to the limit of the Motul), but I bleed my brakes 2 during the session and replace it once a year in spring ( I live in Michigan and cannot use car in winter).

bigkraig

you can get a digital 2% accurate NEIKO 20743A torque wrench adapter for less than 80 bucks

konrad h1

Technically Castrol recommends 18 months for a full replacement of SRF (Castrol website) and it has a 2 year shelf life, but if you track the car often enough (say 4-6 times per year) and bleed before each event, then it will happen naturally. I would not keep any brake fluid in a high performance car for more than 18 months anyway. Where did you get a "6-12 months" life for SRF? Just curious.

3-Pedals

Just to recap, I completed the full flush for my RS yesterday successfully. I have used 2 liters of fluid to be exact and looking at the color of the fluid, I can see that up to 1.5 liters of the fluid I extracted was a darker color vs the last 500 ml was pretty much new fluid. I just wanted to be thorough as I hadn't done this for 4 years now in the car. I have used the motiv bleeder but used it as a dry method and I did not remove the mesh filter and did not use turkey blaster to suck out fluid. In between topping of fluid, I ensured that I am slightly above MIN mark maximum and I have pumped the motiv bleeder to 12 psi. Every one of my bleeder screws leaked a little when I opened them 1/4 turn and after some brake abuse, I can say that there are no leaks. So perhaps some seeping of fluid is normal when screw is opened.

I did squirt brake cleaner (non chlorinated one is what I used to not kill my lungs) around the nipple as well inside the nipple to make sure any corrosion etc is cleaned before draining any fluid. I kept a bottle of warm water and another bottle of warm water mixed in with dawn dish soap. Once I was done with a caliper, I sprayed a lot of dish soap, then rinsed it with water. Once that was done, I did Grant's suggestion of squirting brake cleaner into the nipple. As a side effect of this routine, I now have extremely clean brake calipers and the OCD in me also got me to clean up a lot of the wheel well area.

Along with this work, I also did my engine, cabin, pollen filter as well as complete disassemble and greasing of the center locks. Took an entire day but cant complain. Next time it will be much quicker.

My car was in for some warranty service last year. While I was doing the work above, I noticed a few things that were really surprising (and a bit upsetting). One of the wheels that was removed as part of this warranty service had almost bone dry center lock nuts. Extremely thin grease was applied and then grease was applied in the wheel hub where it shouldnt exist. Then the rear bumper was installed the wrong way. RS has several bolts at the trunk area that runs across (between the tail lights). To my surprise, the tech ended up inserting the plastic holder that keeps wiring harnesses in a way that the bumper was sandwiched between. You are not supposed to touch the inner T30s that hold black tabs. When I removed the bumper, there was paint damage from this improper install on those 2 tabs. I also observed the center lock pin on that one wheel in question was getting stuck quite a bit. It locks properly but not knowing what the tech did and why its getting stuck like this, I'm going to just replace the nut and the pin anyways.

This is the problem I have with giving my car to someone else. For the work I did this weekend, I was quoted almost $4500. Parts cost to me was under $700. Its one thing to be ripped off in these types of service up charges but its a complete other thing to have these issues of absolutely nothing but sloppy work even after having paid this amount of money. The problem is in today's world people are becoming dumber and dumber each day and they dont care. So these dealers can get away with this stuff.