The fronts are easy with the wheels on, it's the rears that are very difficult.

 

Cant you reach the inners in rears with wheels on from outside?

 

I could touch them, but not adequately reach them with a wrench. Also my nipples were really stuck and I have delicate wheels so didn't want to risk damaging them. I have 21 inch in the rear so I should have more space than your average GT3, but I still didn't think it was possible, but your mileage may vary.

 

I have a Gt3RS with 21” as well. It looks like plenty room there, especially if you lift the back of the car with a lift and suspension sags down. Enough room around the tire to reach over no?

The problem with taking wheels off is you really need to use the breaks to tighten the center locks. How would that even work? If you can take off one tire at a time or one axle at a time, you’d be pressurizing the system each tire to put the tire back on. Its a lot of work. I’m sure it can be done.

 

Much better to remove the wheels (it’s easy). You not only have Far better access, you avoid the possibility of dripping brake fluid on the wheels (will eat through paint quickly).

Get a friend to hold the steering wheel and brake pedal when doing front wheel r&r (rears can be done with parking brake alone).

Take off all wheels first and replace them when bleeding finished.

If you’re the kind of guy who wants to bleed your own brakes, you’re gonna want to do a bunch of other stuff that requires wheel removal (spark plugs, brake pads and rotors, etc). Worth learning now and do the bleed correctly.

 

I have taken the wheels off before. The problem is I have a 4 post lift that has a rolling scissor lift on it. I can only take an axle off ground one at a time. But you have a point, park brake should fix the issue of needing to pressurize the brake system to tighten center locks. I didnt think about this. And fronts can be tightened once all brake bleeding is complete and brake fluid reservoir is full.

 

Or get yourself a pair of these (for rear axle) and regular jack stands for front, since if you raise from rear side jacking point, it raises the whole side of the car:

https://jackpointjackstands/

Just skip the 4-post lift for a job
like this. Better to have all 4 wheels off while bleeding (can go around the car a couple times to ensure all bubbles out).

 

Or quick jack

 

Right tool for the job is crucial

What flare nut or box wrench do you guys use for the 11mm bleeder screws? PCCB.

This one I found : https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...SABEgLTXPD_BwE

I have box wrenches at home, just not sure if they will fit. Dont want to discover halfway

 

Good morning,
Box wrench (6 flat) is best, regular flat. Put the wrench first, then bleeding hose. Don’t forget to torque it to 14Nm at the end before putting rubber cap.

 

Never had to use a torque wrench for bleeder screws but its a Porsche so it will be a first. I have a high quality precision instruments 1/4” drive inch torque wrench. I’m assuming hand tighten with box wrench first and then 11mm socket is okay? Otherwise no way to torque them unless using something like a crow foot which wont fit there.

 

yes hand tight with flat wrench and just check torque after with socket/torque wrench. Usually hand tight will be already at 14Nm but if you track, best is to check torque.

 

I’ve been torquing mine (was told by a shop that rebuilds Brembo calipers that spec is 130 inch-pounds which is between 14 and 15 Nm). Deep well 11mm 6-point socket. Yes, also want an 11mm 6-pt box wrench (bleeder hose through the wrench when bleeding).

 

I’m guessing you torque with the rubber protector open/removed position.

 

Yeah, I usually remove those rubber boots before bleeding and clean and replace them when finished. Before replacing them (but after torquing bleeders), I squirt brake cleaner right into all 8 bleeder valves (straw of aerosol cleaner right into top hole) to remove any residual fluid (otherwise this weeps out with heat and can ruin caliper paint). Also, pouring warm water over calipers at end is good insurance that any stray brake fluid is neutralized.