Noob question on torquing center locks and Molub grease
#1
Thread Starter
Racer
Noob question on torquing center locks and Molub grease
I completely disassembled my center lock nuts today following the detailed instructions posted on here in a different thread. I have two questions. I applied a small amount of molub paste to the seating area on the wheel itself and also to the threads on the hub. Was that correct? or was the paste on the center lock nut supposed to be enough for the wheel and hub?
I torqued to 600 NM and backed off 90 degrees when backing off the 90 degrees the nut was loose enough I could probably turn by hand. Does that seem correct? I bought the Precision instruments torque wrench, but I feel like the 600nm was not as tight as I thought and the little *** on the wrench to select torque is not very confidence inspiring. I know it took a lot more force to break the nut free when I first removed the wheel than when I was backing off the 90deg.
I torqued to 600 NM and backed off 90 degrees when backing off the 90 degrees the nut was loose enough I could probably turn by hand. Does that seem correct? I bought the Precision instruments torque wrench, but I feel like the 600nm was not as tight as I thought and the little *** on the wrench to select torque is not very confidence inspiring. I know it took a lot more force to break the nut free when I first removed the wheel than when I was backing off the 90deg.
#2
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I completely disassembled my center lock nuts today following the detailed instructions posted on here in a different thread. I have two questions. I applied a small amount of molub paste to the seating area on the wheel itself and also to the threads on the hub. Was that correct? or was the paste on the center lock nut supposed to be enough for the wheel and hub?
I torqued to 600 NM and backed off 90 degrees when backing off the 90 degrees the nut was loose enough I could probably turn by hand. Does that seem correct? I bought the Precision instruments torque wrench, but I feel like the 600nm was not as tight as I thought and the little *** on the wrench to select torque is not very confidence inspiring. I know it took a lot more force to break the nut free when I first removed the wheel than when I was backing off the 90deg.
I torqued to 600 NM and backed off 90 degrees when backing off the 90 degrees the nut was loose enough I could probably turn by hand. Does that seem correct? I bought the Precision instruments torque wrench, but I feel like the 600nm was not as tight as I thought and the little *** on the wrench to select torque is not very confidence inspiring. I know it took a lot more force to break the nut free when I first removed the wheel than when I was backing off the 90deg.
#3
Greasing the threads on both the nut and hub is recommended.
I'm located in central NH, if you wanted to drop by the shop I can double check it for you. Make sure that your lock pin is fully out (flush) before you drive the car.
John
I'm located in central NH, if you wanted to drop by the shop I can double check it for you. Make sure that your lock pin is fully out (flush) before you drive the car.
John
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GrantG (06-06-2023)
#4
Thread Starter
Racer
I may take you up on that offer. Thank you.