bwhip

I bought this one last September, though it currently shows as unavailable from Amazon. Works great for me. It was $550, and seemed to be highly touted on Rennlist.

Palting

That's actually what I have currently. I was asking about that torque multiplier that supposedly costs around $400, not thousands.

montoya

Right, the one you found is similar to what I have, but mine is a 4X not a 3x multiplier. You want 4-6X. None of the multipliers come with a torque readout in these price ranges, maybe that's where you are having misunderstandings. You use your torque wrench on the input side to set the bolt, just divide by the multiple to read your setting, ie if you set for 480lbs then with a 4x multiplier you set your torque setting to 120 lbs- easy peasy.

Here's the Central Tools one that looks identical to the one I bought from Snap On a few years ago (not sure where it's made):

https://www.jbtools.com/central-tool...caAnP9EALw_wcB

this is a Williams model, only 3.6:1 but made in USA:

https://www.toolsource.com/torque-mu...-p-114023.html

And finally what it looks like in use (you will want to use a piece of wood under the reaction bar unless you like divots in your garage floor!):

FourT6and2

This is what the tech at the shop did on my car. He hand torqued them in the air, then lowered car and did final torque on the ground. I am going to re-torque them properly before my next track day though.

GrantG

If the parking brake is on, then there is no reason not to fully torque the rears in the air (I do all 4 in the air, but only the fronts would be any easier on the ground).

FourT6and2

Yeah I don't know why he did it that way. I was there and didn't want to tell him how to do his job. But I asked him, "Hey so... doesn't Porsche instruct to torque them in the air?" And he said, "Yeah, but it's fine since I snugged them in the air and just doing the final torque, back-off, and re-torque on the ground is fine." I didn't argue with him but I didn't think it was ideal...

tgibrit

I'd be interested to know if this is SOP at most dealerships, next time my car is in I definitely going to ask.

FourT6and2

This wasn't the dealer. It was an independent Porsche shop. I've watched my dealer do it before and they do it 100% in the air.

Dreamer99

Quick question here on a new set of track wheels. Should I be checking the wheel torque after the first install since they are brand new? Maybe go do a quick rip on the highway first, then do the back off 60' and retorque procedure?

And from what I read here always do it with the wheel in the air.

GrantG

No, once torqued properly (torque to 600Nm, loosen slightly, re-torque to 600Nm) you never need to check again.

Yes, I always loosen and tighten with wheels in the air.

RudyP

I'm not a fan of CLs but I do have them on 2 cars and while you may not consider this "changing a center lock wheel by themselves" but I do have a wife and she doesn't mind coming out to the garage twice for about 30 seconds each to get into the car and hold the brake pedal while I torque the front wheels down (in the air). The rears can be done with the parking brake/in gear. If I were to do a wheel change at a track day or something, I could find 10 volunteers quite easily just by asking. So I don't have a clamp but I do have the rest of the tools and always follow Porsche's instructions. A bit of a pain but not that big a deal in the end.

I will say I am tempted to remove them with my latest cordless DeWalt impact gun (DCF961) which has 1750 ft lbs of breakaway torque - but so far have resisted the temptation. It probably would mess up the centerlock tool's mounting hole after a bit as those anvil hits in that thing are no joke.

JGC

Unless you want the endurance race car battered and chipped CL look, I would strongly recommend NOT to do this!

RudyP

Yeah, I’m not actually planning to do it - even though it would be cool to imitate an F1 pit crew!