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Laying in bed reliving the idiot move I pulled earlier today. Desperate for answers. Brand new Porsche owner. 2018 touring. drove manual my whole life. 67 camaro rebuild. 2014 z28. Audis jeeps yadayada.I can drive I thought.
3 days into my dream car I smack it into 2nd from 3rd at like 5500 rpms. I did this intentionally because I’m a moron and thought I still had plenty of room at 9000 rpm redline.. still getting used to this type of performance. Anyway jesus himself spoke to me through a disgusting rev Limit sound like a bro from Temecula revving his dirt bike in neutral. IT WAS AWFUL. Flys up to I think 9000+ I didn’t really have a moment to look down the sound scared me so bad. It was all a blur of regret.
here’s my question. Could I have money shifted this? Yes of course it’s possible but if I heard the rev limiter than I’m assuming a money shift wouldn’t have allowed for a rev limit because the momentum( if that was the cause) wouldn’t of allowed it to bounce the Rpms like it did. Anyway- what do I do. Don’t shame me. Thanks.
Generally speaking, the rev limiter is in play to stop the driver from pushing past the red line while on the throttle.
What confuses me about the story you relay is that at 5,500 RPM in 3rd there should be room to downshift to 2nd. No need to do so, but I don't think you'd run past the red line doing so. Take a look at post 123 in this thread. Only you know what was really happening at the time. (Along with the computer which of course captured any data if you want to see it).
Aw jeeze, sorry to hear that OP. Something like this would keep me up all night stressed & worrying so I feel you!
I too have driven manual for years and also had a brain hiccup once on my current car. Luckily it had the rev match feature so the revs popped sky high while the clutch was still in. I quickly pulled out of gear before releasing the clutch and then proceeded to pull over and change my underwear.
Joking aside, if you didn’t release the clutch and just heard the rev match pop off the red line you’re probably safe as the motor won’t over-rev unless the gear is actually engaged.
Unfortunately if you did fully release the clutch there’s not much advice I can give as I don’t know from a technical standpoint how high it might have revved. The only way to know for sure would be to take it to a dealership and ask them to run an over-rev report. They can print out exactly how high the motor over-revved and for how many cycles. This report will either put you at ease or make things worse, but at least you’ll know.
If you want to find out for sure, get an overrevs report from your local dealer. Anyway, I can almost guarantee you that nearly every Touring owner has at some stage missed a gear change and selected a lower gear than wanted. I did it in my Touring on track and the over revs report I got showed an over rev to 10,000+. I then got a compression test done and the report back from Porsche was no problem. Engine can take it. It’s only numpties who stress unnecessarily about it.
If you were on the throttle after the shift you may have just pushed the car into the limiter. The only way to know for sure is to go to the dealer and get the DME report. I, like you, would want to know how high the rpm's went.
One way to know if you over-revved (besides a report) is if you know the speed you were traveling when you shifted into 2nd. I think redline in 2nd is right around 80mph (anything faster means more than 9k rpm). I think 3rd is 111 mph. And I think 4th is 141 mph.
If you’re the kind of driver that isn’t confident about when it’s safe to downshift, it might be useful to memorize these. See here:
If you want to find out for sure, get an overrevs report from your local dealer. Anyway, I can almost guarantee you that nearly every Touring owner has at some stage missed a gear change and selected a lower gear than wanted. I did it in my Touring on track and the over revs report I got showed an over rev to 10,000+. I then got a compression test done and the report back from Porsche was no problem. Engine can take it. It’s only numpties who stress unnecessarily about it.
Any rough idea what the compression test costs? I made this mistake and am worried about the over rev impacting my warranty or my ability to sell the car via my authorised dealer.
Any rough idea what the compression test costs? I made this mistake and am worried about the over rev impacting my warranty or my ability to sell the car via my authorised dealer.
Thanks
There’s no use worrying about warranty or resale because what’s done is done. Pretty sure all dealers run a diagnostic DME report for engine warranty claims and for trade-in’s so there’s no way you can hide it. Might as well get the report now and find out for yourself.
I wouldn’t get the compression test done until you see the DMR over-rev report. If the report comes back clean, consider it super lucky and then there’s no need for a compression test at all.
There’s no use worrying about warranty or resale because what’s done is done. Pretty sure all dealers run a diagnostic DME report for engine warranty claims and for trade-in’s so there’s no way you can hide it. Might as well get the report now and find out for yourself.
I wouldn’t get the compression test done until you see the DMR over-rev report. If the report comes back clean, consider it super lucky and then there’s no need for a compression test at all.
Compression test would take similar amount of labor as a spark plug change (a bit more).
You’d probably want to do a leak-down and compression test, if you saw big over-rev numbers. But not necessary if car is running well (and not if no significant over-rev)
Any rough idea what the compression test costs? I made this mistake and am worried about the over rev impacting my warranty or my ability to sell the car via my authorised dealer.
Thanks
To be 100% clear, I actually had two tests done. A cylinder compression check and a cyclinder loss test (essentially a compression test in reverse). Both were 196GBP each if I remember correctly.
One way to know if you over-revved (besides a report) is if you know the speed you were traveling when you shifted into 2nd. I think redline in 2nd is right around 80mph (anything faster means more than 9k rpm). I think 3rd is 111 mph. And I think 4th is 141 mph.
If you’re the kind of driver that isn’t confident about when it’s safe to downshift, it might be useful to memorize these. See here:
grant’s chart is super handy. If you were going over 80, you may have a problem. The long gearing everybody bitches about is really pretty forgiving at lawful speeds.
High revving engines are typically built with a decent amount of headroom and tested to that headroom. Similar to BMW's high revving S54, S65, S85 engines, I would imagine the GT3/RS was tested to 700-800 rpm past the redline.