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I have tested the Lite and it is a real POS. So the next step is the VBox HD which has to be mounted in the car, is very expensive, extremely difficult to setup........ This system is fantastic for an advanced driver but not recommended for anyone that is not competing.
The VBox sport is a nice addon to Harry's but your not getting OBD data anywhere near the level of the TPA. The AIM Solo and Smarty Cam were a big disappointment, my action camera gets better video of the a fraction of the price and still allows for feature rich overlays.
Honestly I think the next step for many might be the Auto Sport Labs MK2, though I have not tested yet I believe it may be a real sweet spot for a budget laptimer.
There are some up and coming options also that should change the game!
In the near future I plan to publish some information on items I have tested and testing below.
...The AIM Solo and Smarty Cam were a big disappointment, my action camera gets better video of the a fraction of the price and still allows for feature rich overlays.
....
lol, if you think the aim smartycam has bad video, then you’ll be even more disappointed with the Vbox HD2. I think Vbox is just up-converting crappy 720 video to 1080. Now, I’m just talking about video quality, not ease of use, analytics, etc (Vbox is great for that). I wish we could just have an iPad mini mounted in middle with real-time gps speed, laptimes, throttle, and brake info and then use a GoPro to film everything. That would give us great video with data. Now the data analysis is not as easy as the Vbox though
I have tested the Lite and it is a real POS. So the next step is the VBox HD which has to be mounted in the car, is very expensive, extremely difficult to setup........ This system is fantastic for an advanced driver but not recommended for anyone that is not competing.
The VBox sport is a nice addon to Harry's but your not getting OBD data anywhere near the level of the TPA. The AIM Solo and Smarty Cam were a big disappointment, my action camera gets better video of the a fraction of the price and still allows for feature rich overlays.
Honestly I think the next step for many might be the Auto Sport Labs MK2, though I have not tested yet I believe it may be a real sweet spot for a budget laptimer.
There are some up and coming options also that should change the game!
In the near future I plan to publish some information on items I have tested and testing below.
Other options include the RacePak CL2, RaceKeeper.......
I tested the updated Porsche Track App yesterday. I always use it connected to a VBox. I haven't exported the data yet, but the new video overlay is fantastic compared to previous versions. It provides realtime understeer and oversteer graphs, intervention of the e-LSD, I run with nannies off but for people running with nannies it shows when TC and ESC are assisting.
My .2 GT3RS has the Auto Sport Labs MK2 (Race Capture) installed and wired for 6 weeks already. It is not logging anything at all. I have been in calls with them and no luck yet. Something wrong with the Porsche CAN bus and the Race Capture not talking to each other. My idea was to use RaceCapture for data logging, as I'm not longer using AIM SOLO DL + SmatyCam V1 (will sell this combo) due to my personal needs to use the most simple approach.
My Garmin VIRB is awesome, I have an open case, and a cable wired to a battery pack with the equivalent to 20 VIRB batteries, and also the external mic (Olympus wired), it is just amazing. I have been able to link an odb2 bluetooth reader to the Garmin, but no luck getting Garmin g-metrix data from the car. I have to test two more Bluetooth ODB2 modules with the Garmin. The Garmin also allows connection to the VBox for more precise g-meter and gps data.
For mounts, check Hondo Garage. I have their vibration isolator and the iphone mount. They have the best tablet mount, cell phone mount and vibration control for their cameras. Top of the line stuff.
I tested the updated Porsche Track App yesterday. I always use it connected to a VBox. I haven't exported the data yet, but the new video overlay is fantastic compared to previous versions. It provides realtime understeer and oversteer graphs, intervention of the e-LSD, I run with nannies off but for people running with nannies it shows when TC and ESC are assisting.
My .2 GT3RS has the Auto Sport Labs MK2 (Race Capture) installed and wired for 6 weeks already. It is not logging anything at all. I have been in calls with them and no luck yet. Something wrong with the Porsche CAN bus and the Race Capture not talking to each other. My idea was to use RaceCapture for data logging, as I'm not longer using AIM SOLO DL + SmatyCam V1 (will sell this combo) due to my personal needs to use the most simple approach.
My Garmin VIRB is awesome, I have an open case, and a cable wired to a battery pack with the equivalent to 20 VIRB batteries, and also the external mic (Olympus wired), it is just amazing. I have been able to link an odb2 bluetooth reader to the Garmin, but no luck getting Garmin g-metrix data from the car. I have to test two more Bluetooth ODB2 modules with the Garmin. The Garmin also allows connection to the VBox for more precise g-meter and gps data.
For mounts, check Hondo Garage. I have their vibration isolator and the iphone mount. They have the best tablet mount, cell phone mount and vibration control for their cameras. Top of the line stuff.
Great information, thank you very much for sharing!
How are you connecting the VBox Sport to the PTA? Is it only using the GPS or are you exporting to VBO and reviewing in Circuit Tools? Very interested in this option, as of today the CT Program is by far my favorite.
As for the MK2, I was really hoping it would be really good, this would allow remote telemetry for instruction, great CAN logging for items like the IZZE tire pressure/temperature sensors and is reasonably priced. If you are on FB look for a page "Beginner Data Acquisition" there are folks there from AIM, AutoSports Labs, VBox, APEX........
My AIM Track Day Kit is also for sale, not very impressed but it is very nice quality.
For the Virb it is by far my favorite camera and I use it with the 12V charger from an old GPS. I sync this with the phone apps then transfer video and overlay. As for the OBD they use a OBDLink MX as their standard but I bring data back into my phone at the moment. I have been told that the Amazon Special BAFX Products will connect and I have tested with the BT1 and Konwei and both worked.
1) Pair your iPhone with the VBox
2) Shut-off Cellular data, any whatssap, text, email, phone call, etc., can disrupt the PTA, and some stability complains are actually caused by these interruptions
3) Be sure to be connected to the car's wi-fi
4) Start the PTA on the iPhone
5) Go to the Helmet icon (Preparation)
6) Click on GPS Signal
7) Click In the Source field and change from Phone (1Hz) to VBox (20Hz)
This will use the VBox which has a higher resolution and more stability than any phone GPS. Then export data in .vbo format, and you will get all other Porsche-CAN info: throttle position, brake pressure, steering angle. When choosing the Lat-g and Long-g, you can choose the ones being thrown by the car's ECU (they match what the g-meter GT3 dashboard displays) or the VBox readings, they are pretty close, or you can display both. Of course, the VBox graph has better precision and the graph is less smooth due to more data.
I have the ODBLink MX Bluetooth version, it didn't pass anything to the Garmin. I have to test two more ODB2 bluetooth devices that I purchased but awaiting testing: A blue ELM327 generic that the CorvetteForum guys have found successful with the C7, and a BAFX Products ODB2 Diagnostic Interface that supposedly works (it is bulky, I might hit it with my left leg when moving around). I will post which one works with the VIRB.
I have the 12v charger for the VIRB, but it takes the mini-usb port. I wanted an external-mic for good sound quality, and most bluetooth units lose battery charge, and I can't keep track of charging too many devices. Garmin sells an accessory cable that connects to the mini-usb, and ends in 4 connectors: one for audio-in (mic), one for audio-out, one for video-out, and one for power-in. I use the mini-usb male to usb-male, so I can connect the usb-male to any cigarette lighter charger, but my external battery pack is just compact and convenient. iPhone stay connected to the in-car usb port.
One thing I noticed with PTA and phone GPS, is that the displayed speedometer in the videos is reading the same as the car dashboard, and that speedo is way off. When using the VBox, the video overlay speeds are accurate.
I have not figured out how to fix this problem with PTA: My RPMs in the video overlay are going to 11,000rpm, and the speeds are displayed in Km/h.
1) Pair your iPhone with the VBox
2) Shut-off Cellular data, any whatssap, text, email, phone call, etc., can disrupt the PTA, and some stability complains are actually caused by these interruptions
3) Be sure to be connected to the car's wi-fi
4) Start the PTA on the iPhone
5) Go to the Helmet icon (Preparation)
6) Click on GPS Signal
7) Click In the Source field and change from Phone (1Hz) to VBox (20Hz)
This will use the VBox which has a higher resolution and more stability than any phone GPS. Then export data in .vbo format, and you will get all other Porsche-CAN info: throttle position, brake pressure, steering angle. When choosing the Lat-g and Long-g, you can choose the ones being thrown by the car's ECU (they match what the g-meter GT3 dashboard displays) or the VBox readings, they are pretty close, or you can display both. Of course, the VBox graph has better precision and the graph is less smooth due to more data.
I have the ODBLink MX Bluetooth version, it didn't pass anything to the Garmin. I have to test two more ODB2 bluetooth devices that I purchased but awaiting testing: A blue ELM327 generic that the CorvetteForum guys have found successful with the C7, and a BAFX Products ODB2 Diagnostic Interface that supposedly works (it is bulky, I might hit it with my left leg when moving around). I will post which one works with the VIRB.
I have the 12v charger for the VIRB, but it takes the mini-usb port. I wanted an external-mic for good sound quality, and most bluetooth units lose battery charge, and I can't keep track of charging too many devices. Garmin sells an accessory cable that connects to the mini-usb, and ends in 4 connectors: one for audio-in (mic), one for audio-out, one for video-out, and one for power-in. I use the mini-usb male to usb-male, so I can connect the usb-male to any cigarette lighter charger, but my external battery pack is just compact and convenient. iPhone stay connected to the in-car usb port.
One thing I noticed with PTA and phone GPS, is that the displayed speedometer in the videos is reading the same as the car dashboard, and that speedo is way off. When using the VBox, the video overlay speeds are accurate.
I have not figured out how to fix this problem with PTA: My RPMs in the video overlay are going to 11,000rpm, and the speeds are displayed in Km/h.
Where were you a few months ago when I started all this testing!
I thought the app was using the cars GPS? The exports that I have done indicate a 10HZ logging frequency and changes in the position. The VBO's were really very nice overall, though I did see an improvement when looking at Harrys with the Dual Electronics 160.
That makes sense with the charger, and clever to boot! So you put a battery in the glove box and run the hydra of cables to your devices?
For the OBD, I have mine routed to the passenger side with a short extension cable and tuck the OBD Dongle into the passenger side net. I am always concerned that I will kick it and break off the dongle or worse the port. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Oh, and I nearly forgot, what does this indicate? No mater how far I push it never goes beyond 89% or 90% and I know there is no where near 10% left in the car, maybe a few tenths on the fastest laps.
I thought the car was 10hz and the phone was 1hz? U could choose before, I can't get a connection anymore though, frustrating and no help from Porsche.... Arrrg.
Oh, and I nearly forgot, what does this indicate? No mater how far I push it never goes beyond 89% or 90% and I know there is no where near 10% left in the car, maybe a few tenths on the fastest laps.
These estimates tend to work of lat G or G sum e.g. if through corners your lat G is 1.4 max and your are more typically doing ~ 1.2 then it might determine you are driving typically at ~ 85-90% of the limit.
Yeah that was my guess it is using some very simple metric like average vs recorded peak G, lap time consistency........
As I continued testing throughout the weekend I was able to squeeze a few tenths by softening the dampers, adjusting pressures and finding the line, the track is rough you can hear it hop in several places, but there is not much on the table.
When PTA is connected to the car it’s at 10hz, not the phones 1hz. I have used both the car GPS and external. The old v2 worked better with external GPS but the new v3 version works better with the car GPS, I’m going to sell my external 160 GPS.
I’ve got the PTA working ~90% of the sessions now. I’ve also figured out how to get it to connect when it won’t. In the past I deleted the app, lost everything and then it would connect. Turns out you just need to reset the PCM by holding the button down for 10 secs. It will connect right away if this happens to you.
regarding the drive on the limit. I don’t think you can get it past 90% because it includes your warmup / cool down lap. I wish there was a way to exclude.
I’ve got the PTA working ~90% of the sessions now. I’ve also figured out how to get it to connect when it won’t. In the past I deleted the app, lost everything and then it would connect. Turns out you just need to reset the PCM by holding the button down for 10 secs. It will connect right away if this happens to you.
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11-18-2019, 01:24 PM
