RoyalPink

I don't ever want to be stuck with a flat some where as I'm sure the rest of you don't either. I researched and found everything I needed. Now the problem was having it in the car at all times. After many hours of trying to figure out the best way. Here's what I did. I think it works quite well and supplies everything you would need to remove/fix/plug a flat on your own in the middle of nowhere. You'll see that I simply wrapped the individual items with a small black hand towel and strategically positioned everything (getting it flat and level) and then added the foam and topped it off with the foam cover. Black case is not used it won't fit. You lose approximately 3 inches of depth with this. But still much better I think then having it all on the bottom of the trunk rolling around. You can simply remove the liner with everything in it if you needed to. However, it's best to keep it in there. Hope this helps someone. Now I know I won't get a flat because I have all of this stuff - lol. Isn't that how it works! PS - Don't forget a good tire pressure gauge. Mine is in the glovebox. I included everything I used, where to buy it, pricing and links. As you know the tire compressor and center lock nut removal tool comes with the car.

$29.95
Heavy Duty Tire Repair/Plug Kit for Cars, Bikes and Motorcycles.

$397.69
Precision Instruments C4D600F - 3/4" Drive Torque Wrench and Breaker Bar Combo Pack

$37.92*
3/4 In Dr Adapter Bar for C4D600F, C4D400F
https://www.toolsource.com/adapters-...-p-110329.html
*Precision Instruments C4D600F is missing an adapter to connect the break bar to the extension tube. This means the tool is "shorter" with the breaker bar than with the torque wrench. This adapter solves that.

$21.99**
Neiko 00236A 3/4” Drive Impact Extension Bar, Cr-Mo Steel | 3-Piece Set | 4”, 6”, 10”
**I use the short extension in this kit only. It's very stout and avoids getting too close to the body and risking scratching the fender or rear quarter. when using the breaker bar and torque wrench.

$170.00
Delrin Hub Tool - for aligning the wheel and not damaging the PCCB rotor.
Source: Ed Jenkins his Rennlist screen name is SmokinGTS

Castrol center lock wheel grease - Suncoast Porsche
Porsche Jack - Suncoast Porsche
Gloves/rags - Home Depot
Porsche trunk liner - Porsche dealer
Knee pad foam - Lowes
Foam cover - Bed Bath and Beyond
Center Lock wheel tool for 997, 991 GT3 - Torque Solution

Wind911

You'll also need a clamp to push the brake pedal if you have to do this by yourself. https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-2...3186/204988147

if you are getting the RennTorque tool that another member is selling, then you wont need it and you can also toss your the big breaker bar/torque wrench for much more compact 1/2" ones.

Needs lots to paper tower and rubber gloves for centerlock paste.

Personally, i dont know how stable/safe it is when you are trying to remove the 445 lb-ft centerlock on the tiny Porsche jack on the side of the road........

Mech33

You’ll still need a brake pedal depressor with the Renntool to do it on your own to keep the wheel and hub from spinning.

Pmorritt

AMX!

Tangerine

Don't forget an air compressor. Vlair makes good ones for the money:
I'm not brave enough to take the centerlocks out in the wild. My plan (which I've not had to try yet) is if it's a slow leak, put more air in and see if I can get back to civilization. If it's a fast leak, at least that increases the chance to find the source. With any luck it will be somewhere that I can get at it with the tire repair/plug kit without taking a wheel off. If I can't find it or can't get it around to where I can work on plugging it, then just suck it up and deal with arranging a flatbed.

1963SWC

Nice post, very similar to what I carry but yours is definitely more organized in the frunk.
my first desire is to plug a leak without removing the wheel so I also carry an assortment of screwdrivers/pliers/tools to pry out any foreign object (screw, nail, etc) and a charged small drill with a couple sizes of bits to clean up the puncture site before plugging (much easier than attempting to use the rasp tool included with a puncture kit).

TAch Miami

Nice setup but it’s not easy reaming out a hole for the plug to fit. The drill idea is a good one. Don’t you already have a pump and tire sealant in the frunk? It’s more convenient to use it or an aftermarket tire sealant inflator and just drive off. Deal with the fix in better conditions.

cbrett

Nice write up! Does the 996 jack work decently well with the 991? I've been thinking of getting one.

GrantG

I thought the car comes with a little compressor...

RoyalPink

This is all for a fast leak when you're hundreds of miles from a dealer. Out in the boonies somewhere and the car has to go on a flatbed to Elmer's tire shop in Armpit, Kentucky (no offense - for humor purposes only). I have the tools needed to do the job. Majority of the time it will be a slow leak that you can most likely plug.

Tangerine

I consider that a last resort backup--it certainly doesn't look that sturdy. I think it was actually the sales guy at the dealer who said it was junk and don't rely on it. The Viair ones are great for use not just during emergencies and come with adapters to blow up other things. In fact that's the only part of my "tire flat kit" which has been used.

RLNTL3S

I like what you did there. I also gave this a lot of thought.

I ended up going with:

1. Air compressor (picked one up at Costco).

2. Tire plug kit (similar to yours, got it from Amazon) with some tools that will allow to pull the nail/screw and clean up and plug the hole

3. Tire Gauge (got it from Amazon).

I would not want to remove the wheel on the side of the road, instead I would attempt to fix it on the car, and inflate it back up. This of course is a temp fix until I get it plugged correctly or replace the tire.

Tangerine

I agree with the "wouldn't want to change a centerlock at the side of the road" feeling, but I added a jack to my kit since that would likely make hunting for a nail and using the repair kit a bit easier.