I actually run the 3.12 on the front and the 1.11 on the rear of my GT3 in order to keep the rear ABS from kicking in and it has worked. At VIR this weekend I was able to brake very late on the back straight with no drama at all and the pedal kept a consistent feel. I liked the 1.11s but am much happier with the 3.12s although I seem to go through them a bit faster. I did have to adjust my braking for the pads but once I got used to it the feel is much improved. I do have to invert the front pads due to taper but it isn't as pronounced as it was with the 1.11s.

 

Hello Disden

I recently posted this question but you are a good person to ask now that you have used both the RE 10s and the DS.13s with the AP rotors. How do the new pads compare to the RE10 in terms of longevity? I am sure that they are more consistent and the initial bite is better. Can you comment on the rotor wear with the new pads compared to the RE10s? How about noise?

Thanks!

 

Thanks for the feedback on the 3.12 gents! Sorry about the availability. Ferodo just came off their summer break, which is an entire month! The 3.12 is a new compound, and demand has even exceeded our lofty expectations for it. We keep ordering more sets than we think we need, only to sell through them far faster than expected. You boys are gobbling them up! We will continue to increase our orders as much as required to keep the pads flowing at an uninterrupted rate. Again though, the summer break really throws a big wrench into our plans every year. We notify our customers, order a ton of stock to get us through the break, and somehow we still seem to run out of something or other. In our defense though, there are hundreds of pad shapes we stock!

We're glad these pads are such a hit and working so well for everyone. I'm running them on my C6 Corvette track car, and they really are fantastic. I'd venture to say they are one of the best, if not the absolute best I've ever used in my 20 years of tracking my cars. My opinion echoes what erko1905 wrote: "incrementally better than 1.11 in every area: slightly higher friction, great pedal feel, easy modulation, wears longer than 1.11, less noisy than 1.11."
That's pretty much my take as well.

I don't think we have enough data to put any figures to it, but my educated guess would be that disc wear is going to be slightly worse than the DS1.11 based on the 3.12's higher coefficient of friction. When you rub two pieces of metal together, something always wears. Based on the substantial amount of customer feedback we have received however, they certainly don't appear to be anywhere near as harsh on discs as many competing brands. Also, they can be overlapped on the same disc with DS1.11 or DS2500, or run staggered as 69911s is doing, which are both advantages of keeping it in the Ferodo family.

Anyway, thanks again for the continued support!

 

Hey Jeff,
It was really nice to see Daniel come by and check on us at the track last week. Several of my customers were there and I think they gave him some detailed feedback. I think they really appreciated the contact.
Great customer service!
Holder

 

Jeff. Any idea when you will have these back in stock? front and rear for a GT4.

Looking for new pads and was going to try ME20 but came across these and they look good with great feedback.

Also, I mostly do Supersprints - 15-20 minute sessions where you fastest lap counts (time attack style). Also occasionally (rare) street driven. Are these pads something you would recommend for my uses?

 

Hi,

We should be shipping the DS3.12 pads in the GT2/3/4 shape right around the end of this month/beginning of October (about 2-2.5 weeks). Demand for this fantastic new compound is extremely high globally right now, so Ferodo is cranking these out around the clock. I'd suggest getting your order in to reserve a set for when they arrive.

The DS31.2 is an excellent time attack pad/supersprint pad. It doesn't need a ton of heat to have bite...feels great from the get-go. I ran them at a time attack in my C6 Vette last week at LS Fest East and they are outstanding! I putter around in my car on the street occasionally as well- just to keep fluids moving through it / fun Sunday morning drives. I have not had any issues at all with them. They feel good cold, and don't lead to the scary moments I've had running other race pads cold on the street. On my car they also barely make any noise, which is gravy!

Thanks for your interest, and let us know if you have any other questions. Thanks!

 

Thanks for the feedback mate. Will shoot you a PM.

 

We expect the DS3.12 fronts to be back in stock around Oct 1st. The rears are in stock now.

 

I realize I’m in the wrong forum, but any plans to make this pad available to fit the 997.2 Turbo application (with stock 350mm iron rotors and calipers)? Thanks!

 

We unfortunately do not yet have the DS3.12 compound in the proper shapes for your particular car. Sorry about that. Hopefully they'll have it in their next round of development.

For everyone else, Ferodo did just email us a list of new Porsche shapes that will soon be available in the DS3.12 compound:

FCP4955 (front shape of many 991 trim levels)= https://ecat.ferodoracing.com/index....FCP4955#detail

FCP4713 (rear of many 991 models) = https://ecat.ferodoracing.com/index....FCP4713#detail

FCP4805 (front of many 987, 981, 718, some 997 trim levels)= https://ecat.ferodoracing.com/index....FCP4805#detail

FRP3050 (front of 996/997 GT3, 997 GTS/S)= https://ecat.ferodoracing.com/index....FRP3050#detail

FRP3051 (front of most 996, 997, 987 models)= https://ecat.ferodoracing.com/index....FCP4955#detail

FCP1308 (rear of many 996,997, 986, 987, 981) = https://ecat.ferodoracing.com/index....FCP1308#detail

 

I don't think we've posted anything about it here on Rennlist, but Ferodo has been having great success with the DS3.12 compound in professional GT racing in Europe. They've partnered with several top teams, including Imperiale Racing and Audi Sport Italia. Imperiale Racing are campaigning their Lamborghini Huracan GT3 EVOs, and the Audi is an R8 LMS GT3. The DS3.12 compound has been winning races and grabbing podiums on these cars. You can see the Ferodo decals on the fenders in the images below.

https://www.essexparts.com/news-blog...eriale-racing-

More on the Lambo...pretty sweet ride:
https://racing.imperialegroup.it/en/...per-gt3-evo-2/

More on the Audi R8...not too shabby either:
https://www.audi.com/en/experience-a...8-lms-gt3.html

 

I wanted to update this thread and share a recent post we made on our blog: Ferodo DS3.12 Sweeps the Podium in GT Racing

This will likely not come as a big surprise to those of you who have used the Ferodo DS3.12 compound, but it is now finding great success in European GT Racing. Ferodo-equipped cars recently had a podium sweep, and they are winning races across multiple classes. We're not at all surprised based on our dyno results and what we've heard from all of you, but it's good to see the pros exploiting these fantastic pads. They are the real deal!

Ferodo DS3.12 was also just featured in Race Tech Magazine. You can find more pics and info in our blog link above. Thanks for your continued support gents!

 

Jeff - great thread, on point for me, but I'm in a difficult spot and need your advice: I have a 17' 991.2 BASE Carrera - a semi-daily driver, w/ occasional track DE, and 19,000 total miles on the car and brakes. I have all OEM rotors & pads w/ some judder now at high speeds (over 80 mph braking) following my only second track day ever (at NJMP (first was a month earlier at Limerock with no issues afterwards)). Brakes worked fine on NJMP track but on way home heard loud noise under/around the car upon braking. Some threads point to uneven OEM pad transfer to OEM disc but that it would clear itself out over a few weeks of around town driving. Three weeks has passed and it has not alleviated. It's killing me softly.

My plan is to track the car often next year when DE events are regularly calendared again, perhaps 7-10 days total. In between I drive semi-daily on the street, and drive it hard, using the brakes in a near threshold capacity in many places (don't ask) but obviously not consistently and repetitively like a 20 minute DE session, of course. My Christmas Wish is to put a new combination of rotor and pad, whether OEM or aftermarket, that will solve all of my problems at once. Track capable, street usable, not too noisy around town. Don't want: Big Brake Kits or any Pagid RS29 pads - too much squeal reported by too many folks. All this hype and early glowing anecdotes on the Ferodo DS3.12 looks promising but I know they don't make a pad for my rear Base Carrera Caliper. A source advised me to use Girodiscs all around with Ferodo DS3.12 pads all around, and as a work-around, using the slightly larger rear pads from an "S" model's rear brakes which would allegedly fit in my base rear caliper and work fine with the Girodisc rotor as the rotor has a smaller hat (than OEM) thus allowing the proper amount of swept room/clearance on the disc itself. Any thoughts on this or new ideas, or should I just replace everything OEM and keep replacing as OEM stuff wears past 50% (per PCA tech inspection rules) or if I get more mysterious judder from the OEM set-up. I don't have a big budget and am not looking to turn my car into a track car. I plan to sell it in a year or so and make the jump to getting a used real prepped race car or clubsport, and take this addiction to another level.

 

Rob,
The discs aren't your issue, it's the pads. Street/OEM pads are not made for racetrack use, period. Here's an article I recently wrote titled, "Can I Run my Street Pads on the Track?". The short answer to that question is, "Not if you don't like killing yourself softly like Rob."

Friends don't let friends drive street pads on the track!
The judder you're experiencing is indicative of your pads overheating and smearing on the discs...uneven pad deposits. It doesn't mean you necessarily have any inherent problem with your discs, or need to change to something else. The surefire way to know how much duress your discs are under is to measure you disc temps at the track. If your discs are reading 1400F+ that's very different than if they're running at 700F. Knowing that will tell you if your discs have the thermal mass and cooling capability to deal with the heat you're throwing at them. If you can't collect temp data, you can interpret disc cracking. How many events do you have on your current set of discs? How much cracking do you have? Can you post pics of your disc condition? We have another article I authored called, "When is it Time to Replace my Iron Brake Discs?". That article should shed some light on interpreting disc wear.

Judder on your current discs
You wrote, "Some threads point to uneven OEM pad transfer to OEM disc but that it would clear itself out over a few weeks of around town driving." Your statement is not necessarily correct. Sometimes uneven pad deposits will not take care of themselves. That is particularly true if you're not running a pad that is abrasive enough to scrape off the old pad material. If you're driving the OEM pads around cold, they may not do the trick. You need a true race pad, which when run cold, is like a portable brake lathe. They can peel the pad material off the disc in a hurry. Have you ever seen our video, ? In this video I show how quickly a set of race pads can strip a disc of pad material when driven around cold. The key is that they remain cold however. You note some aggressive street driving, which can very easily get a set of OEM street pads hot enough to transfer to the discs. That's counterproductive to what you're trying to accomplish with scrubbing the discs. If you can't get the pad material off via running race pads cold on the street, then you can move to the next more aggressive step of scrubbing them with a scotch brite pad in an attempt to remove the transfer layer. If that doesn't work, you can move to a mild sandpaper. If that doesn't work, the discs may be hosed.

If you can't salvage the discs
If you can't salvage your stockers and determine through data collection that you have enough heat/cooling capacity...Rather than buying another set of the OEM drilled discs that will just crack around the drill holes on the track, I'd suggest a set of Centric 120 series discs. I've used them on my personal cars over the years, and they are relatively inexpensive and tend to work well. The screen capture below is from Tire Rack. However, DO NOT buy them in the bundle with the Hawk HPS 5.0 pads....those are street pads and will pull the same tricks your OEM pads did!




We've been shipping the DS3.12 for about a year and a half, and they have performed incredibly well across a wide range of vehicles (including my own C6 Corvette track car). They're killing it in pro racing as well, and they are one of the best pads we've ever seen both on the dyno and in the real world. As for using them on Girodiscs, I don't have that answer unfortunately. I don't have the dimensional data to ensure that they will clear on those discs, or the Centric discs I mentioned above.
As you note, Ferodo unfortunately does not make your rear pad shape for the base 911.

I don't suggest that path unless you want to be this guy!




Summary:
1. Regardless of what you're doing, make sure you get some good race/track pads. Street pads are not the answer, and will only bring you more frustration and expense. While you're at it, make sure you have some quality racing brake fluid. I'd suggest AP Racing R3 or R4 if you stick with discs in the stock sizes.
2. Figure out just how much heat and stress you're putting into your discs currently. Basic discs may be more than adequate for your needs. You won't know until you know. If you determine that you do need greater heat capacity, you can then invest in some bigger, more expensive hardware. If you post some pics of your discs along with how many track miles/hours you have on them (not the 19,000 total miles), I can likely give some insight based on what I see.
3. Try to salvage your current discs...no sense scrapping perfectly good iron due to user error (just busting your stones. )
4. If you determine that stock-sized, simple discs can get the job done for you, get a set of non-drilled, quality aftermarket discs rather than going back to stock drilled ones.
5. If you determine that you need bigger discs that flow more air and have greater heat capacity, then move in that direction

If you were going to keep your current car, my recommendation would be to stop messing around after the data collection phase and go big (either 2-piece discs or a complete brake kit). Over the past 20 years in the brake business, I've watched countless track enthusiasts waste innumerable hours futzing around with half-baked brake solutions. I'd estimate that about 90% of our brake kit customers tell us they wish they had just gone that way in the first place, rather than wasting two seasons chasing the performance, convenience, etc. that other solutions just can't offer. Given your desire to move to a different car in the near future, that's probably not the economically sound plan of attack however.

Anyway, I hope that helps.

 

Ferodo DS3.12s are back in stock for the 991 GT3 and GT4. Think I bought them all P/N FCP4664G and FCP4665G. Call to order 843 299 0997

Regards,
Clark