Good starting point for track setup for 991.2 RS?
#17
A/S do you have any picture of your car with the lowered suspension?
Ham955 I also switched the top mounts on my 991.2 gt3 rs and using oem 7mm shims I could easely get to -3.1 front camber but of course in this way the total track width is less compared to oem top mounts fit and extra lower shims and with -3.1 camber even visually there is a lot of space between the top of tyres and fenders... Can you explain what way should be better and why?
Didn t porsche used the top mounts fitted that way as oem to widen the track on purpous instead of using a simple centered top mount as on the 991 gt3 non rs?
I know that those top mounts are fitted with the hole towards the inner part to get camber on the cup cars but maybe porsche just used them as an easy way to get larger front track on the rs?
Ham955 I also switched the top mounts on my 991.2 gt3 rs and using oem 7mm shims I could easely get to -3.1 front camber but of course in this way the total track width is less compared to oem top mounts fit and extra lower shims and with -3.1 camber even visually there is a lot of space between the top of tyres and fenders... Can you explain what way should be better and why?
Didn t porsche used the top mounts fitted that way as oem to widen the track on purpous instead of using a simple centered top mount as on the 991 gt3 non rs?
I know that those top mounts are fitted with the hole towards the inner part to get camber on the cup cars but maybe porsche just used them as an easy way to get larger front track on the rs?
#18
A/S do you have any picture of your car with the lowered suspension?
Ham955 I also switched the top mounts on my 991.2 gt3 rs and using oem 7mm shims I could easely get to -3.1 front camber but of course in this way the total track width is less compared to oem top mounts fit and extra lower shims and with -3.1 camber even visually there is a lot of space between the top of tyres and fenders... Can you explain what way should be better and why?
Didn t porsche used the top mounts fitted that way as oem to widen the track on purpous instead of using a simple centered top mount as on the 991 gt3 non rs?
I know that those top mounts are fitted with the hole towards the inner part to get camber on the cup cars but maybe porsche just used them as an easy way to get larger front track on the rs?
Ham955 I also switched the top mounts on my 991.2 gt3 rs and using oem 7mm shims I could easely get to -3.1 front camber but of course in this way the total track width is less compared to oem top mounts fit and extra lower shims and with -3.1 camber even visually there is a lot of space between the top of tyres and fenders... Can you explain what way should be better and why?
Didn t porsche used the top mounts fitted that way as oem to widen the track on purpous instead of using a simple centered top mount as on the 991 gt3 non rs?
I know that those top mounts are fitted with the hole towards the inner part to get camber on the cup cars but maybe porsche just used them as an easy way to get larger front track on the rs?
My 991.2 GT3RS camber plates only have 3 holes, not like my 996 and 997 that had 6 holes and I could relocate the studs and gain more camber (and more space for tire). Unless the trick is to move the right side camber plate to the left, and vice-versa, they don't look adjustable to me.
I run a 295 front tire, it is right on the fender line, but I would love to move it inside the fender by another 10mm, despite losing 20mm of front track (negligible), but adding the benefit of less drag (a tire behaves like a wall once extending beyond body work). You can then run a 10mm wider tire (or a 1" wider wheel on the same tire) and gain contact patch. I always prefer the biggest front 911 tire I can fit.
#19
I moved the top mounts from left to right
They look the same as the porsche motorsport top mounts but switched left to right
Only thing the total width is slightly less but it s probably right like that as some porsche specialist confirmed that they switch them
They look the same as the porsche motorsport top mounts but switched left to right
Only thing the total width is slightly less but it s probably right like that as some porsche specialist confirmed that they switch them
#20
Awesome!!! and Thank you. You just helped me make my car a little faster around a road course.
#21
Keep in mind that you loose a little of total width (but if you use larger tyres you already say it s better for you) and that apart from the porsche motorsport cars and some advice I had no other proof that is correct to use them swapped or that nothing else should be changed or that it wont change other important
settings so have a look at everything to make sure it works well.
#22
Interesting.
FYI - flipping the camber plates on the front will yield your camber/castor numbers you want to hit without having the shim the bottom and mess with track width so much. Too much shim in the bottom it won't want to turn. Flip your plates and get your track width back in.
Secondly - rake - you're going the wrong way. You need to reduce rake if you want to get the car to rotate more. Inducing rake creates stability but will bind up the front more.
Third - based on spring rates and 2RS feedback as well as .2 Cup - you should really try more like 2.3-2.5 front and more like 2.8-3.0 rear with the above suggestions. If you are migrating to R7's then you definitely need -3.0 on the rear and at least -2.5 on the front. Little more in the rear in the case for this car.
Lastly - don't run the suspension in sport mode; it's too stiff to let the car roll and rotate. It will be faster in the soft mode.
- Chris.
FYI - flipping the camber plates on the front will yield your camber/castor numbers you want to hit without having the shim the bottom and mess with track width so much. Too much shim in the bottom it won't want to turn. Flip your plates and get your track width back in.
Secondly - rake - you're going the wrong way. You need to reduce rake if you want to get the car to rotate more. Inducing rake creates stability but will bind up the front more.
Third - based on spring rates and 2RS feedback as well as .2 Cup - you should really try more like 2.3-2.5 front and more like 2.8-3.0 rear with the above suggestions. If you are migrating to R7's then you definitely need -3.0 on the rear and at least -2.5 on the front. Little more in the rear in the case for this car.
Lastly - don't run the suspension in sport mode; it's too stiff to let the car roll and rotate. It will be faster in the soft mode.
- Chris.
#23
Camber:
front: -2,5
rear: -2,0
sway bar:
front: hard
rear: medium
tyres: Cup2R
ride height low as possible
front: -2,5
rear: -2,0
sway bar:
front: hard
rear: medium
tyres: Cup2R
ride height low as possible
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Emotion_Chris (04-29-2020)
#26
Rennlist Member
#27
Former Vendor
sasportas. That will work but you don't gain the benefit of widened track. Using shims for camber and thus widening the track is a huge benefit. We made shim style tension arms so you can easily adjust the caster back to where you won't have rubbing issues.
#29
Rennlist Member
Yes.
Or what’s wrong?
Or what’s wrong?