ilario

neanicu

That sounds like a pretty extreme case and I highly doubt it!
Even if you hooked up the battery the wrong way(positive to negative and negative to positive),which in a 911 is pretty hard to do(I might say even impossible because of the battery terminal placement),there are still plenty of circuit protections designed from the factory. And it would've affected other systems in the car,not just the EPS. These new cars are highly dependent on the battery voltage : as soon as the voltage goes down you can have a bunch of inexplicable electric gremlins going on. Even if the dealership is right and the power drop killed the EPS,most likely it bricked the EPS control unit,not the actual electric power steering motor. Is the control unit part of the EPS unit and can't be replaced separately? I don't know... The way you can brick a modern car control unit is : if it runs on a 5 volts power supply provided by a regulator...if the overall voltage supply goes down,then that 5 volt supply goes down...and when the power is restored the data inside the control unit chip can get corrupted.

Start with this :
1) Post up the DTCs(diagnostic troubleshoot codes) that the dealership found stored in the memory.
2) Is the EPS control unit responsive? Can it communicate?
3) Does the Gateway have any stored codes for not communicating with the EPS control unit?
4) Find out if the EPS control unit is part of the Power steering rack and motor.
5) Request the dealership to give you an EPS control unit wiring diagram : power wires,grounds,CAN lines and connector layout.
6) Check powers,grounds and communications on the CAN lines...all at the EPS control unit. If all good,replace EPS control unit.

As a side note-Bear in mind : ALL NEW BATTERIES INSTALLED IN THESE CARS NEED TO BE PROGRAMMED TO THE CAR!

Good luck!

Nick Yoskin

Not trying to be a smart *** but is the weight saving worth these issues?
Everyone's tolerance is different, I get it but to me my RS is a street toy and I dont race it.
Now for my race car I have light weight battery.

cox1974

Spoken with Ilario.... No communication with the eps ecu... The dealership is going to change the ecu under warranty

neanicu

That's good news it will be replaced under warranty. I wonder if the dealership did the battery change...? It would make sense they'd eat it then...
Unfortunately due to all this modern technology,the best way to replace the battery on these cars is to have a 12V power supply hooked to the cigarette lighter,which will maintain power during the swap. Also,keep a battery maintainer when the car is not driven.

neanicu

This is not about weight savings,the take on this is that you can have these issues on a measly battery change(OEM TO OEM) due to a bad battery...

Jimmy-D

I have had a Braille for about 3 years now that I swapped from my GT4 to .2 GT3 and has worked flawlessly.

Even in these cold Chicago winters car has never needed a second turn of the key

ilario

A/S

I have a Lithium Porsche battery (my old 997.2 GT3 RS factory battery), it is a 18Ah battery. I use it in the 991 Turbo S and the 991 GT3 RS.

I swap this battery with the stock mega heavy brick, no problems at all with my electronics. I just unplug terminals, swap batteries, install negative terminal, positive terminal, do a ECU reset via Cobb Accessport, and drive.

Is it worth the weight savings? Yes. Too long of an explanation, and the information is already posted in RL, so read.

18Ah is enough for these cars per Porsche, 30Ah is even better. Maybe a defective battery was shipped, I would send it back to Antigravity, request another one, and Antigravity should test it to find out of there is a production problem, and obviously disclose the info to customers. Transparency goes a long way on niche products.

Sunny_M3

GrantG

I'm not going to replace the original battery until it dies. However, some of these lightweight batteries are actually better performing and longer lasting than OEM (I suspect the Anti-Gravity is in this category).

bittrl1000

Just a friendly reminder that "AH" (Amp-Hour) is a good measure for how good a car battery is at powering accessories, particularly when the car is off. AH is not a good measure of a car battery's ability to start an engine. That would be CCA (cold cranking amps).

bittrl1000

Oh, and my understanding is that battery weight savings are less helpful in 911's, because they are already rear-weight biased. Since the battery is in the front, saving weight up there makes the car slightly MORE rear-weight biased..

GrantG

Antigravity

HI Ilario,

I appreciate you addressing this on the forum... but next time please also bring us in on the loop. We are the manufacturer of the battery, and I have not heard from you. I represent our Company on this forum (along with Chad) and I will answer any question about our product honestly and openly. There is nothing to hide and the product works exactly as state. If it doesn't I will address it and fix it if someone brings up something we have not seen.

I will explain some things below regarding batteries and our RS-30.

1- First, lets keep in mind a few things. A battery is a device that stores energy. It has a relatively fixed voltage and does not PUSH energy into things or cause issues unless it is short-circuited. For example it is basically inert until it is DRAWN from by a device or system. So it will not push the energy into the device... the device will take energy from the battery... such as a Starter Motor. So while a battery might not be understood by all I want to make it clear that it isn't a device that burns up ECUs or Power-steering Pumps, or that type of thing by pushing energy or current into them... they take energy from the battery. The only way to really harm the electronics in the system is if you short circuit the battery or misconnect it.

2- Additionally I want to explain that our Lithium Battery sits at 13.2v in it normal resting state, a lead acid battery sits at 12.6v in its normal resting state.... that is a .6v difference.... which is insignificant and cannot create a "Damaging" effects on any part of the Cars system whatsoever (unless someone intentionally short circuits it). But additionally and more importantly is to understand that the CHARGING SYSTEM on the Vehicle it most often operating at 14.4 to 14.8v in any of our Porsches ( I have a GT3 RS myself). I have tracked that voltage in multiple tests over the last 6 months in my personal car and monitoring voltage sitting for weeks and while driving it. My point being, if a Cars Charging system is putting out 14.4v often (the standard within the Automotive Industry), then this proves that the 13.2v could not and would not damage any part of your system such as computers, lighting or anything because more often than not the car system is putting out above 14v... and if the car couldn't handle that, then this Voltage it would always be damaging system. Vehicle systems are designed to handle above 15v and not suffer damages... they have to design them that way to deal with potential voltage spikes. So a 13.2v battery will not damage a cars system whatsoever.

3- I'm going to be blunt about these Dealerships and your Tech. They may know about Porsches and repairing them but they do not understand how a battery actually operates and what it can effect in the car. The statement that the Lithium Battery could ruin your Power Steering due to low voltage is ABSOLUTELY ABSURD. Here's a few facts.... for example, say the cars charging system is not putting out it's normal 14.4v because your alternator has failed.... well the fact is that Lithium Battery will hold at 13.2v nice and steady, which is HIGHER than the Lead/Acids 12.6v. So how on earth could this Tech claim the Power Steering Pump failed due to Low Voltage? Because the RS-30 would have been holding a steady 13.2v even if your alternator failed and for a long period... again that is higher than the Lead/Acid battery. So how is it ever going to give too low of a voltage when the cars system is designed to work off a lower voltage Lead/Acid Battery? The fact of this is that you had an "aftermarket" part in your Car.... they saw that and point a finger at it saying "Aha, that is why your Car failed." only because it wasn't your stock battery and it was an aftermarket product used in your Porsche. They had absolutely no basis to jump to that conclusion from the battery.

4- You also state that they say 30Ah is too little for these Cars.... again this is absolutely inaccurate information. The facts are Amp Hours are the Capacity of the Battery, the Amp Hours, to put it in simple terms, indicate the amount of RESERVE energy a battery has. To say that 30Ah is not enough for our cars is not accurate at all. The cars will absolutely operate perfectly fine with even a 7Amp Hour battery, and in fact I have a 7Ah Antigravity 12-Cell battery in our 2005 Toyota Tacoma shop Truck.... for 2 years! Also I have tested the 7Ah in my personal GT3-RS for 6 weeks. Not a problem. BUT the truth is 7 Amps Hours is way to low because you can't leave the lights on or the Radio for long if the car isn't running. But so you completely understand the battery is for starting and then providing a stable voltage to the car, and giving you capacity for emergency lighting. It really just sits in the car being recharged most the time. It is not actively doing things. So to do that effectively you should use a Certain number of Amp Hours for any car depending on it level of Parasitic drain, and it use. In Sports Cars for the Street you could even get away with 15Ah and be fine, but it would require more monitoring so you don't over-discharge it, but its fine. Last, an important fact si that a higher Amp Hour is needed in Start Stop vehicles where the Alternator is now designed to operate less frequently, and the car goes to the battery more and the Alternator is not recharging as much. But the GT3s do NOT have Stop Start system... so that is not an issue. So my final point being 30 Amp hours is ABSOLUTELY sufficient for a Sport/Performance Car battery. The RS-30 provide a much more stable voltage during its capacity also being it stays at 13.2v until it is finally over-discharge at which point it drops very fast. But lead/acid drop voltage in a linear manner as it is used meaning it goes down from 12s to 11s to 10s and the voltage goes lower if it doesn't have recharge. So its much less efficient.

5- My last comment is that the RS-30 has sold over 1200 units, and no lie it is our best model battery to date in terms of not having any issues. It has been tremendously stable, it has incredible starting power, and is a perfect performance battery for its intended use in Performance Cars. We've had 4 peole with Porsches with flags that have contacted us and of those it turned out to be Turbo owners with the 24Hour Cameras and the flags went away after they got the dedicated Camera Batteries. There were over 50 people on the GT3 thread that did the group buy and we have not heard anything from those guys of negative reports or flags. I have a 2016 GT3 RS myself that has been the test bed for this and our other batteries so that I could verify the use in our P-Cars. I have done everything I could to test the battery including multiple long term car sitting in the garage voltage monitoring, multiple long term start attempts, multiple time when I left the battery in the car.. but then attached an extra headlight with alligator clamps directly to the battery to cause a massive drain on the battery until it shut down into sleep mode... then would test the RE-START feature on the battery over 100 times over the course of the 2 weeks I did that test. My point being that I have done everything with that battery, and also it was tested by at least 7 others all over the USA during our original testing before I got my GT3. So it not doing anything odd or weird.

I know how frustrating this can be to have a car have a problem, and I understand the battery is the first thing you would look at due to your issues happening right after you put the battery in. And then with the Dealer saying it was the battery you don't know what to believe. I get that. But if it was another type of issue I would look at it objectively... but a Power Steering pump being damaged by the Battery is a very odd conclusion by your Dealer. But they are just looking for something to blame and a new fangled Lithium battery is the perfect bad guy unfortunately. Last I think if that happened so soon in your car all these others including myself with my GT3 would be having the same problem.... and we are in a lot of GT3s....

The last word is please return it to the Distributor you bought it from and I will make sure they give you a full refund. I do not want you to be with a product that is not working for your application, and I want to make sure you don't feel like you would have to keep it. We stand behind everything we make, if it didn't work for you, send it back absolutely.