We have guys running them locally on GT4's for multiple seasons using Pirelli DH slicks and similar tires. They are strong and can take a beating. The weight is the reason for this, they designed it to be a strong, flo-formed cast wheel. I already have a set of forged RE monoblocks for my 19", and the are incredibly light, but the slight weight penalty is worth it to me to be able to have similar motorsport styling in 20" for use with Trofeo-R type tires.

No freakin way I'm droppin 18k on a set of 20" magnesium wheels to pound around on the street and track. The aluminum ones are already hard enough to stomach. BBS shoulda released these years ago.

 

 

Looks like only 20" for now. Anyone have any pics of these on Porsche's in GT3 size (width and offset)?

 

I'm in the same boat. Looking for a second set of wheels for track work. Deciding between these BBS CH-R - of which I like the look and the price - and the the OZ Ultraleggera HLT. Don't really like the look of the OZ, but word is they are a lot lighter although they are also cast iron ! Decisions, decisions.

I wonder how much of that unsprung mass difference I would really feel on track as a non pro driver !?

 

The cast wheels are heavier than forged, but thankfully they are not iron Brake rotors are made of this - wheels are Aluminum alloy...

When comparing OZ and BBS cast alloy wheels, if one is significantly lighter (OZ) then consider that the other (BBS) is probably considerably stronger...

You probably won't feel the difference between the two cast wheels, but the stopwatch could conceivably show a small difference (if that matter to you). However, you will definitely know the difference if one wheel bends or breaks.

If someone is using PCCB or ST rotors, then I think it would be a shame to put weight back on the wheels. And if someone is going to track a large amount (or their track has severe curbing or other hazards to the wheels), then probably best to use stock or other strong forged wheels.

If you are very concerned about the lightest, go Magnesium. If you are very concerned about strong, durable, and light, go forged Aluminum alloy (including stock wheels). If you are concerned about price, go cast (with BBS probably being heavier/stronger and OZ being lighter/not as strong as BBS).

 

 

@GrantG: Thanks for straightening that out, don't know how "cast iron" slipped through the cracks there :-)

 

+1 - go with Foreline vs these. Had a set of the CHRs as a winter wheel for my wife's Macan Turbo, I wouldn't put them on a sports car. One of the rims was bent by a NYC pothole going 45 mph and they're designed for the Macan, not just assuming they would work.

Only rim we've ever bent, they're also really really heavy. This is the primary reason I would never put them on a sports car.

EDIT: Just to add also ran a OZ cast set on a Macan S for two winters. Many more miles (at least 5x more miles) on the OZ set and no damage at all.

 

Personally, I'd never put these on a GT2/3/RS/R... they're a compromise and these cars really have no other compromises. HRE R101 LW or BBS FI-Rs or stock IMO.

 

I can't tell you how many sets of "cast" OZ Allegeritas I've seen break, have cracks, or be close to catastrophic failure from track use, on much less powerful cars like even the cayman and others. Bending a wheel on a 5000lb SUV from a pothole is not what worries me. Cracking from too little weight where it counts does. OZ makes great wheels, but they are also very light, and they have been prone to cracking and breaking. I've never seen a set of CH-R's ever show the cracks or failures that I've seen from similar cast OZ rims.

 

Love the look, wish they were lighter and forged. That would give us another option to the FI-R's.