N0 vs N1 Cup 2 for 991 GT3
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#32
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Pretty sure my car with all the cheater parts is faster then my new OEM .2GT3RS if I ever get one.
I just want fresh warranty, I'm trying to get Mr. Purple to make it to Sept 2019, the only reason I have a daily driver is to keep it under 50K miles till then.
As soon as it runs out of warranty it will be back to OEM and become my DD for as long as I can get my fat *** and bad back and neck in and out of the car.
I just want fresh warranty, I'm trying to get Mr. Purple to make it to Sept 2019, the only reason I have a daily driver is to keep it under 50K miles till then.
As soon as it runs out of warranty it will be back to OEM and become my DD for as long as I can get my fat *** and bad back and neck in and out of the car.
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Actually it is. The federal act, and the state parallel acts (for states that have adopted it or something similar), specifically address warranty claims on consumer products. The MM Act covers many topics, but one of those is a prohibition on deceptive warranty exclusions and or denials. Denying a warranty claim due to an unrelated modification would be a violation under the federal act and parallel state laws.
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The Ring changed too much and the .1RS never set a real dry flyer.
I can only gauge when on track with equal drivers in front and behind me.
Same out of the corner, GT3 a little faster over 80-100MPH and GT3 a little slower in corners.
I figure it just about balances out at Sebring, Tire per tire.
I can only gauge when on track with equal drivers in front and behind me.
Same out of the corner, GT3 a little faster over 80-100MPH and GT3 a little slower in corners.
I figure it just about balances out at Sebring, Tire per tire.
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I'm surprised it's such a significant difference. Where is all the energy going within the braking system from the slowing of the car? Same total energy must be being dissipated somewhere...
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gt4fun (02-02-2020)
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I noticed that Dunlop has a new Sport Maxx Race 2 for our cars. Has anyone tried it on track? I believe the grip is on par with the Cup 2, but the problem I had with the original Sport Maxx Race (on other cars) is that it didn't last on track when pushed hard.
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Agreed. the thermal capacity of the iron rotor is considerably higher than any carbon ceramic rotor mainly as they weigh a good bit more so if anything the iron brakes should be heating up less. Unless the ceramics have a much better cooling vane system (and with their larger size are more effective at radiating heat off)......
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Agreed. the thermal capacity of the iron rotor is considerably higher than any carbon ceramic rotor mainly as they weigh a good bit more so if anything the iron brakes should be heating up less. Unless the ceramics have a much better cooling vane system (and with their larger size are more effective at radiating heat off)......
#41
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Define 'fully heated up'. The point between the temperature where the brakes are working properly to the maximum temperature the rotor reaches while just after a heavy braking zone is different and thermal capacity is going to affect that maximum temperature the rotor is going to reach?
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Define 'fully heated up'. The point between the temperature where the brakes are working properly to the maximum temperature the rotor reaches while just after a heavy braking zone is different and thermal capacity is going to affect that maximum temperature the rotor is going to reach?
#43
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For now, I really like the tires, can't really fault them in any way. My last two tire sets were N1 and N2 Cup 2s (equivalent to N0 and N1 for regular GT3). They do have more pressure gain over a track session - I was starting at 23 and getting up to 33 psi. On the Michelins, I would start at 25 psi.
![](https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_0913_f233a4e8dc4ccd66d9d5112c47c3dfa8e60d1de2.jpg)
After 8 heat cycles
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Michelin N2 left, Dunlop Maxx 2 right
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Chasing 720s
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I'm currently running the Maxx 2's on my RS and put 10 heat cycles on them last weekend. Best lap was set on 10th heat cycle, so they haven't dropped off yet. I plan to put another 12 heat cycles into them over the next few weeks and will report back.
For now, I really like the tires, can't really fault them in any way. My last two tire sets were N1 and N2 Cup 2s (equivalent to N0 and N1 for regular GT3). They do have more pressure gain over a track session - I was starting at 23 and getting up to 33 psi. On the Michelins, I would start at 25 psi.
For now, I really like the tires, can't really fault them in any way. My last two tire sets were N1 and N2 Cup 2s (equivalent to N0 and N1 for regular GT3). They do have more pressure gain over a track session - I was starting at 23 and getting up to 33 psi. On the Michelins, I would start at 25 psi.