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N0 vs N1 Cup 2 for 991 GT3

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Old 08-07-2018, 07:01 PM
  #31  
GrantG
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Originally Posted by KBS911
All things considered I believe the .1 RS is certainly on equal terms and is every bit the match for the .2 GT3, and closer to the .2 RS with same tires and track conditions.
From what I gather, the .1 RS and .2 GT3 are fairly evenly matched, but I would expect the .2 RS to be on a higher rung, due to the double-stiff suspension (among other things).

Old 08-07-2018, 07:03 PM
  #32  
TRAKCAR
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Pretty sure my car with all the cheater parts is faster then my new OEM .2GT3RS if I ever get one.

I just want fresh warranty, I'm trying to get Mr. Purple to make it to Sept 2019, the only reason I have a daily driver is to keep it under 50K miles till then.
As soon as it runs out of warranty it will be back to OEM and become my DD for as long as I can get my fat *** and bad back and neck in and out of the car.
Old 08-07-2018, 07:06 PM
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GrantG
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Originally Posted by TRAKCAR
I just want fresh warranty, I'm trying to get Mr. Purple to make it to Sept 2019.
And the fresh Euro Delivery

It's nice that many of your mods can be installed on the .2 as well...
Old 08-07-2018, 07:07 PM
  #34  
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Well, yes of course. No ED, no buy.
Old 08-08-2018, 01:40 AM
  #35  
911therapy
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Originally Posted by mdrums


Thats not what the Magnuson Moss act is about.
Actually it is. The federal act, and the state parallel acts (for states that have adopted it or something similar), specifically address warranty claims on consumer products. The MM Act covers many topics, but one of those is a prohibition on deceptive warranty exclusions and or denials. Denying a warranty claim due to an unrelated modification would be a violation under the federal act and parallel state laws.
Old 08-08-2018, 01:44 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by TRAKCAR
The Ring changed too much and the .1RS never set a real dry flyer.

I can only gauge when on track with equal drivers in front and behind me.
Same out of the corner, GT3 a little faster over 80-100MPH and GT3 a little slower in corners.
I figure it just about balances out at Sebring, Tire per tire.
This makes a lot sense. The 991.2 gt3 4.0 seems to be ever so sightly stronger than the gt3rs 991. But, the aero, rubber width and suspension of the gt3rs puts it above the 991.2 gt3 in the corners and braking. Probably makes them pretty equal on most track I would think. But, thats my very unscientific analysis
Old 08-08-2018, 02:31 AM
  #37  
Mech33
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Originally Posted by TRAKCAR


No two red hot rotors to heat up the rim.

Really threw my off, I couldn’t get the front PSI to come up like before either.
I'm surprised it's such a significant difference. Where is all the energy going within the braking system from the slowing of the car? Same total energy must be being dissipated somewhere...
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Old 08-08-2018, 09:06 AM
  #38  
Manifold
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I noticed that Dunlop has a new Sport Maxx Race 2 for our cars. Has anyone tried it on track? I believe the grip is on par with the Cup 2, but the problem I had with the original Sport Maxx Race (on other cars) is that it didn't last on track when pushed hard.
Old 08-08-2018, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Mech33
I'm surprised it's such a significant difference. Where is all the energy going within the braking system from the slowing of the car? Same total energy must be being dissipated somewhere...
Agreed. the thermal capacity of the iron rotor is considerably higher than any carbon ceramic rotor mainly as they weigh a good bit more so if anything the iron brakes should be heating up less. Unless the ceramics have a much better cooling vane system (and with their larger size are more effective at radiating heat off)......
Old 08-08-2018, 02:56 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by isv
Agreed. the thermal capacity of the iron rotor is considerably higher than any carbon ceramic rotor mainly as they weigh a good bit more so if anything the iron brakes should be heating up less. Unless the ceramics have a much better cooling vane system (and with their larger size are more effective at radiating heat off)......
Once the rotor is fully heated up, the thermal capacity should make less difference and it would mostly be a matter of the temp the rotor reaches, which would depend in part on the surface area of the rotor, since that affects heat dissipation.

Old 08-08-2018, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Manifold
Once the rotor is fully heated up, the thermal capacity should make less difference and it would mostly be a matter of the temp the rotor reaches, which would depend in part on the surface area of the rotor, since that affects heat dissipation.
Define 'fully heated up'. The point between the temperature where the brakes are working properly to the maximum temperature the rotor reaches while just after a heavy braking zone is different and thermal capacity is going to affect that maximum temperature the rotor is going to reach?
Old 08-08-2018, 04:02 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by isv
Define 'fully heated up'. The point between the temperature where the brakes are working properly to the maximum temperature the rotor reaches while just after a heavy braking zone is different and thermal capacity is going to affect that maximum temperature the rotor is going to reach?
I agree that thermal capacity with the rotors working as a 'heat sink' is a factor. I just don't know how much of the kinetic energy which needs to be dissipated is going into heating up the rotors vs dissipating heat to the air, heating up the wheels, air in the tires, brake fluid, etc.
Old 08-08-2018, 08:58 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Manifold
I noticed that Dunlop has a new Sport Maxx Race 2 for our cars. Has anyone tried it on track? I believe the grip is on par with the Cup 2, but the problem I had with the original Sport Maxx Race (on other cars) is that it didn't last on track when pushed hard.
I'm currently running the Maxx 2's on my RS and put 10 heat cycles on them last weekend. Best lap was set on 10th heat cycle, so they haven't dropped off yet. I plan to put another 12 heat cycles into them over the next few weeks and will report back.

For now, I really like the tires, can't really fault them in any way. My last two tire sets were N1 and N2 Cup 2s (equivalent to N0 and N1 for regular GT3). They do have more pressure gain over a track session - I was starting at 23 and getting up to 33 psi. On the Michelins, I would start at 25 psi.



After 8 heat cycles



Michelin N2 left, Dunlop Maxx 2 right



Chasing 720s
Old 08-08-2018, 11:01 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Serge944
I'm currently running the Maxx 2's on my RS and put 10 heat cycles on them last weekend. Best lap was set on 10th heat cycle, so they haven't dropped off yet. I plan to put another 12 heat cycles into them over the next few weeks and will report back.

For now, I really like the tires, can't really fault them in any way. My last two tire sets were N1 and N2 Cup 2s (equivalent to N0 and N1 for regular GT3). They do have more pressure gain over a track session - I was starting at 23 and getting up to 33 psi. On the Michelins, I would start at 25 psi.
Yes, please do let us know how long they last. How is the grip over the course of a session?
Old 08-09-2018, 04:29 PM
  #45  
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Have you weighed the Dunlop vs Michelin? I'd be curious to know if they are as light as the Michelins.

Best Regards,
Dave


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