991.2 GT3 Alignment specs for the track
12-11-2018, 07:18 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
For stiffer spring rates (such as Ohlins TTX, KW, Bilstein, or OE RS), I've found that about -3.5 front, -2.8 rear works great even on Cup2 (I also use Pirelli DH takeoffs). Perhaps a bit too much front inside wear, but that's also partly because I'm driving to the track. If I towed, my guess is the wear would be pretty much even. Rear wear is great, I actually think I could bump to -3 for better wear and handling.
Switching to Trofeo-R for next season should be even more ideal for this camber, so not changing anything until I see how Trofeo-R wear, as I like the balance of the car currently.
More roll stiffness and/or stickier tires requires more camber. That's just how it works.
The following 2 users liked this post by Mvez:
Freud (04-13-2021),
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12-11-2018, 08:41 PM
#17
if you want to drive it like a 996 yes, but you can go faster in the new cars with a better driving style and that means a good geo also . Slow in fast out is so old school... oem geo is crap on track unless you want to drive it like a 996 and be slow.
each to their own of course, but with the engine in way more than the 996 cars and rws, you can really go faster in and fast out. More GT4 style in and GT3 style out,
I see old school 911 owners in GT4's going slow in and 996 drivers going slow in WTF ! You can go fast in and fast out now days, you just need a geo to match and to get out the old school rut of 911 driving :-p
each to their own of course, but with the engine in way more than the 996 cars and rws, you can really go faster in and fast out. More GT4 style in and GT3 style out,
I see old school 911 owners in GT4's going slow in and 996 drivers going slow in WTF ! You can go fast in and fast out now days, you just need a geo to match and to get out the old school rut of 911 driving :-p
Physics haven't changed over the time. The cars and theirs nannies did.
12-11-2018, 08:57 PM
#18
Rennlist Member
For stock spring rates, I agree this is a good setup. I would also add front sway - middle, rear sway - full stiff. This will help free up the car some more.
For stiffer spring rates (such as Ohlins TTX, KW, Bilstein, or OE RS), I've found that about -3.5 front, -2.8 rear works great even on Cup2 (I also use Pirelli DH takeoffs). Perhaps a bit too much front inside wear, but that's also partly because I'm driving to the track. If I towed, my guess is the wear would be pretty much even. Rear wear is great, I actually think I could bump to -3 for better wear and handling.
Switching to Trofeo-R for next season should be even more ideal for this camber, so not changing anything until I see how Trofeo-R wear, as I like the balance of the car currently.
More roll stiffness and/or stickier tires requires more camber. That's just how it works.
For stiffer spring rates (such as Ohlins TTX, KW, Bilstein, or OE RS), I've found that about -3.5 front, -2.8 rear works great even on Cup2 (I also use Pirelli DH takeoffs). Perhaps a bit too much front inside wear, but that's also partly because I'm driving to the track. If I towed, my guess is the wear would be pretty much even. Rear wear is great, I actually think I could bump to -3 for better wear and handling.
Switching to Trofeo-R for next season should be even more ideal for this camber, so not changing anything until I see how Trofeo-R wear, as I like the balance of the car currently.
More roll stiffness and/or stickier tires requires more camber. That's just how it works.
getting tired of failing Hoosiers, any leads you can share?
12-13-2018, 04:54 PM
#20
Advanced
02-19-2019, 08:31 PM
#21
Race Director
Sebring this weekend... Just got alignment and ride height adjusted. My car seemed to sit very high compared to others. It sure looks better right now after adjusting. Alignment is now -2 camber all around...zero toe front and 2mm toe in on rear. Bars are stock in middle hole. the MPSC2 tires have 5k street miles on them...they still look new. Will see how the do.
We shall see how it does or how I like it. I can tell on the street a difference in that the steering at center doesn't do much if the wheel is just slightly moved...sort of a very very slight dead zone. Before alignment I would just move the wheel a little and the car felt more darty to me.
We shall see how it does or how I like it. I can tell on the street a difference in that the steering at center doesn't do much if the wheel is just slightly moved...sort of a very very slight dead zone. Before alignment I would just move the wheel a little and the car felt more darty to me.
02-20-2019, 05:05 PM
#22
Race Director
Anyone track a 2018 991.2 GT3? .1 GT3 and RS set ups probably do not help me much in comparing set up info. Thanks! Mike
02-20-2019, 05:58 PM
#24
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Rennlist Member
The strut mounts on the chassis are made from cast aluminum and are not very strong...
One thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...r-failure.html
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Larry Cable (04-10-2024)
02-20-2019, 06:21 PM
#26
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02-21-2019, 08:45 AM
#27
Race Director
02-21-2019, 05:44 PM
#29
Race Director
I use to track a lot...now these days I plan on going like 4 times a year. I have PCCB's and not sure how they will last so after this year of tracking a few times I might change to steel AP rotors...but it sure will be nice to go a few times and not have to mess with swapping out brake pads...LOL...I just dont want to have to replace $25,000 rotors. Yikes!
02-21-2019, 05:51 PM
#30
Ouch that would be expensive but I've heard (no real evidence) that the new PCCB's last a lot longer. With the .2 I get about 10 days on Ferodo DS1.11 (same as with PFC) and about 30 days on AP rotors. I don't change the pads for the street.
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Larry Cable (04-10-2024)