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Interesting. On my First change and fill, my indication was the same as yours at the "3-4" bar level, which remained rock steady for 5K and some change until a long drive to AR (6 hours) After that, with no oil added, the display read "max". On the return trip home, I then received the message, Oil is over serviced and was indicating above the max level. I thought "great car" Porsched has figured out a way for the engine to make oil!. Called the dealer, explained the whole nine yards and they said bring it in. Could be a sensor, software, etc. So I did. They had it for four days and could not explain why it was indicating overfilled. They had the tech "drain a little out" to where it indicated where i show now, and no more issue. Their explanation was that I added too much even though it indicated optimum and the long drive may have contributed that. I wasn't and still am not buying it, however thus far have not seen an automatic increase in oil level although i have not gone on any 6 hour drives. Dealer explained how finicky the system can be and said as long as I fill to "2 bars" I should be good. Honestly when I saw the level increase I immediately went to the fact that I was pushing coolant into the oil and thought the worst. They assured that was not the case. Engine is performing fantastic with no hints of an issue anywhere. Thanks for the info.
Interesting. On my First change and fill, my indication was the same as yours at the "3-4" bar level, which remained rock steady for 5K and some change until a long drive to AR (6 hours) After that, with no oil added, the display read "max". On the return trip home, I then received the message, Oil is over serviced and was indicating above the max level. I thought "great car" Porsched has figured out a way for the engine to make oil!. Called the dealer, explained the whole nine yards and they said bring it in. Could be a sensor, software, etc. So I did. They had it for four days and could not explain why it was indicating overfilled. They had the tech "drain a little out" to where it indicated where i show now, and no more issue. Their explanation was that I added too much even though it indicated optimum and the long drive may have contributed that. I wasn't and still am not buying it, however thus far have not seen an automatic increase in oil level although i have not gone on any 6 hour drives. Dealer explained how finicky the system can be and said as long as I fill to "2 bars" I should be good. Honestly when I saw the level increase I immediately went to the fact that I was pushing coolant into the oil and thought the worst. They assured that was not the case. Engine is performing fantastic with no hints of an issue anywhere. Thanks for the info.
If you drive for a long time without really driving hard (like on a highway road trip), it's possible that the water vapor from the combustion process can add to the oil level (it's not coolant, but still not optimal). A track day or some other hard use may burn off the extra water vapor. But, it's not a serious issue.
One would think that sustained highway driving at normal operating temps would "burn" off any condensation accumulated in the crank case. I am showing my age here but back in the day that was a good way to see if a vehicle was driven short distances and never really got up to full operating temps during those drives. The underside of the oil fill cap would look like a chocolate milk shake. the dealer mentioned that sometimes there is a layer of fuel vapor that causes the ultrasound sensor to read erroneously. Sure would be nice to have a good old fashioned dip stick. forgot to mention also that i have to periodically top off the coolant reservoir every 3K or so. That's where got the concern from regarding coolant being ingested into the crank case. Dealers response was these cars use fluid and it is not abnormal to add oil, water/coolant. They checked and pressurized the cooling system and stated everything checked out there no issue.
One would think that sustained highway driving at normal operating temps would "burn" off any condensation accumulated in the crank case. I am showing my age here but back in the day that was a good way to see if a vehicle was driven short distances and never really got up to full operating temps during those drives. The underside of the oil fill cap would look like a chocolate milk shake. the dealer mentioned that sometimes there is a layer of fuel vapor that causes the ultrasound sensor to read erroneously. Sure would be nice to have a good old fashioned dip stick. forgot to mention also that i have to periodically top off the coolant reservoir every 3K or so. That's where got the concern from regarding coolant being ingested into the crank case. Dealers response was these cars use fluid and it is not abnormal to add oil, water/coolant. They checked and pressurized the cooling system and stated everything checked out there no issue.
If you were losing coolant into the oil, you'd see white smoke from tailpipe. When you moderately drive on the highway, you're unlikely to get the oil to 210F (boiling point for water) - maybe that's the reason for not burning it all off? Just guessing here...
You can reset the oil level system by raising the rear decklid for a couple minutes. You might also open/close the oil filler cap.
Good point on the moderate drive. I will say one thing about this vehicle, it runs cool on water temp at speed. 105 degree day and it's humming along at 185 to 194 degrees with the air on! I live in Texas and in the dead of summer that's when I see both oil and water temps over 200 in town. Once on the road and running 70+ OIl is usually running about 198 and water about 185-194. Thanks for the tip on the deck lid and the filler cap!
I will say one thing about this vehicle, it runs cool on water temp at speed. 105 degree day and it's humming along at 185 to 194 degrees with the air on! I live in Texas and in the dead of summer that's when I see both oil and water temps over 200 in town. Once on the road and running 70+ OIl is usually running about 198 and water about 185-194.
Yeah, here in Colorado it's pretty normal for the Water temp to hover at 175F. Seems like it's not breaking a sweat. I think the new 4.0L in the 718 GTS/Spyder/GT4 runs much hotter (for emissions reasons). I expect that the new 992 GT3 may also run much hotter than the 991.2. Makes me wonder if it may negatively affect longevity??
Does the dealer remove the rear plug too when you have them do the service? I am basically having the dealer do it once a year so I can get the stamp in the book and then once on my own. That should make it a change every 3500 mi or so. Excessive but I don't want to go 7000 miles either.
I drained my oil overnight by removing 2 plugs: the 8mm hex reservoir plug and the rear 8mm hex oil pan plug. Next day I removed the 10mm hex forward oil pan plug. Nothing came out. Literally zero. Net, only 2 plugs need to be removed, not all 3.
So the hardest part of this whole thing is getting under the car, and that includes the dry sump measuring issue (just don’t overfill, measure what comes out, underfill, then top up — I keep in the gauge in the middle as I am more concerned about overfill than underfill).
I had bought them so I had them to clear a not super low four post lift. I was a little concerned about driving onto them as I have had ramps slip and I did not want to chance it, so I used the harbor freight aluminium low profile 1.5 ton jack. You could get two sets of ramps I guess or a third pair if you are worried about the narrow ramps on the wide rear tires, but it seemed fine to me (I put wood under the sills so if something happened it would not crush me).
I jacked at the spot in front of the rear wheel (this lifts the whole side of the car so you can put both front and rear ramps under it at once. Then I repeated on the other side.
It was tight under there (I am not small) and I did use a 27mm wrench on the Hazet oil filter tool to get the oil filter off (BTW the filter can be wiggled out with that Hazet stuck on the end of it), but it was just like any other oil change and much easier than on an early 993.
One other recommendation is to get the Hazet 197N-1 oil pan which you can see in the pic below with the blue Hazet magnetic nut cup. It has graduations to measure, a spout to dump into bottles, and an oil filter drain spot. I did the tank first, measured (it’s only 6 quarts), then the drain reopening the tank to let it drain more. I was a bit pressed for time so I did not let it drain forever. I figure given how often I change, it’s not a bit deal. I did all three plugs. I won’t do the 10mm one again, seems pointless.
I drove off the ramps. I will probably put carpets under them next time and drive onto them rather than jack the car up, but honestly it was very quick to do.
No reason I can see not to DIY. I did not bother to torque the oil filter because that is not worth the effort in my view. One oil change at the dealer buys you all the tools you need, and it took less time for me to do than driving to the dealer and back.
PS I don’t care that the service now light is on. I am used to it and I am not sure I trust the China tools to shut it off. If anyone local has one (main line area of PA or wilmington Del) and wants to let me borrow theirs, I might give it a shot and then buy my own and pay it forward.
For an excellent OBD tool I bought the Aurelio MX808... about $380. Will work on Elmo at any car made. You plug it in and it will automatically read the VIN and identify your car. I bought it to clear an airbag light on my 2006 Boxster. It will also clear the change your oil message.
Definitive answer on all the torque specs for a 991.2 GT3 oil change from my dealer:
I want to bump this up. Are these torque values accurate for .2 cars? Namely, #4 is 30 ftlbs? I was re-reading the comments here and saw M16 plug being 23 ft lbs but I dont know if M16 is what .2 cars come with or if that applies to .1 only. Dont want to overtorque these.
Hi, the values that are posted are the values that I used when I did the oil change on my 991.2 GT3. Not sure why you would want to increase the values!
hope the helps……
see attached photo… These are the torque values that I used.
Hi, the values that are posted are the values that I used when I did the oil change on my 991.2 GT3. Not sure why you would want to increase the values!
hope the helps……
see attached photo… These are the torque values that I used.
Why do you think I am trying to increase them? I just want to clarify if the bottom facing plug is 30 ft lbs or 23 ft lbs. I re-read the entire thread from first post and its not clear to me. I did the oil change 6 months or so ago and honestly dont remember what value I used.
04-06-2021, 01:54 AM
