Rebuilding calipers - titanium pucks vs. stainless steel pistons
#16
Rennlist Member
I just received an e-mail form dealer.
Well done Porsche, well done.
Hello Peter,
We are replacing the left front and right rear brake calipers, right front seals, and left rear seals. All parts are here except for the left rear seals. They coming from Germany. We will know arrival in the next two days.
The parts will be covered under warranty.
We are replacing the left front and right rear brake calipers, right front seals, and left rear seals. All parts are here except for the left rear seals. They coming from Germany. We will know arrival in the next two days.
The parts will be covered under warranty.
Well done Porsche, well done.
#18
Addict
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#22
Former Vendor
i never replace the dust boots on my race cars when i rebuild the calipers; they burn right up after a day on track. also, the piston to caliper bore clearance is definitely the loosest when everything is cold; typically i'll see some weepage after being parked for a week on the wheel and thats when i know that the seals definitely need to be replaced. if i take the car out on track with the weepy seals they stop weeping as soon as the brakes get hot and are ok for the rest of the day (one time arrived at the track for a race and at that point saw the weepage and raced it anyway, so that's how i know). typically i can spot the weepage before a race weekend during the nut and bolt and go ahead and rebuild BEFORE the race! so, seal to piston clearance is definitely the biggest when cold and closes up when hot
RB blue boots are specially made of Silicon material (vs. standard boots of EPDM) for track applications, it can resist temperature up to 450 deg F (vs. EPDM 300 F), which is usually above most track applications so they will never got burnt our like standard boots. (Reminder: Must avoid contacting brake fluid during installation)
RB stainless steel pistons are machined from stainless steel bar stocks for high strength and rigidity under the heat. Its bores are featured with thin wall cut to reduce the weight gain over aluminum pistons.
The outer surface receives a very fine grinding before chrome plating and final lapping finish to maintain an ultra smooth mirror like surface with a tolerance of .0015", and a very hard surface that is highly resistant to corrosion and abrasion. Also added to the brake pad backing plate contact circular surface is the vent cut, which not only can reduce the heat transfer to the caliper but also help in brake release.
None of these feature can a conventional OE aluminum piston, nor expensive Titanium piston offer.
A lot of "details" is working into our caliper rebuild components to ensure your Porsche calipers can be rebuilt with only 3 simple components; Piston, Seal, Boot, no matter how OE calipers constructions are. And after rebuild you'll know why your OE calipers can not only perform better, but also last a lot longer.
We are shipping OE caliper rebuilt kits daily (most are track customers) for many years and yet to see any customer that needs to "rebuild" their calipers after rebuilding with RB components.
http://www.racingbrake.com/category-s/7185.htm
#24
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If you gents can make it through the winter, we have a viable solution in the works that won't cost much more than having the dealer replace the OEM parts (unless they do it for free of course!).
Our AP Racing Radi-CAL calipers will make this issue a thing of the past. We use ventilated, domed back, stainless steel pistons. They do a terrific job of keeping heat out of the fluid, and they are more or less bulletproof. Anti-knockback springs are a big added bonus as well. If you guys can hold out for the fix, it will be worth the wait!
Our AP Racing Radi-CAL calipers will make this issue a thing of the past. We use ventilated, domed back, stainless steel pistons. They do a terrific job of keeping heat out of the fluid, and they are more or less bulletproof. Anti-knockback springs are a big added bonus as well. If you guys can hold out for the fix, it will be worth the wait!
__________________
'09 Carrera 2S, '08 Boxster LE (orange), '91 Acura NSX, Tesla Model 3 Performance, Fiesta ST
Jeff Ritter
Mgr. High Performance Division, Essex Parts Services
Essex Designed AP Racing Radi-CAL Competition Brake Kits & 2-piece J Hook Discs
Ferodo Racing Brake Pads
Spiegler Stainless Steel Brake Lines
704-824-6030
jeff.ritter@essexparts.com
'09 Carrera 2S, '08 Boxster LE (orange), '91 Acura NSX, Tesla Model 3 Performance, Fiesta ST
Jeff Ritter
Mgr. High Performance Division, Essex Parts Services
Essex Designed AP Racing Radi-CAL Competition Brake Kits & 2-piece J Hook Discs
Ferodo Racing Brake Pads
Spiegler Stainless Steel Brake Lines
704-824-6030
jeff.ritter@essexparts.com
#26
I've only heard and observed it happening on tracked cars so presume it is a combination of heat and repeated high pressure application. I've also observed some tapered pad wear especially with oem pads and that may be a factor. Also oem pads have a thin but noticeable cushion type layer on the backing which aftermarket race pads lack and that may be a factor in puck cracking. Use of non oem pads was the reason I was denied warranty coverage on cracked pucks on my 991.1 GT3.
#27
Good to know as it seems some places will cover it some will not and if you have factory pads vs non factory pads, some don't care its a moot point.
Even when I ask about the extended warranty and say all factory specs and pucks crack every place i have called said no not covered.
Even when I ask about the extended warranty and say all factory specs and pucks crack every place i have called said no not covered.