PPF: How Much Wrap Does The GT3 Need?
#31
I wrapped mine entirely. Tomorrow, she goes for CQuartz - body and wheels - plus window tint and headlamp and windscreen protection.
#32
Three Wheelin'
I suggest you check on the headlight delamination issue. There a couple of threads on the issue . Also if my memory serves me well there is discussion of this in the car manual.
#33
#34
I did. My installer uses the newer thin Xpel film cutout - the old one was a thick sheet of plastic, which trapped headlamp heat (his words). He guarantees headlamp replacement.
Last edited by Napoli; 12-04-2014 at 03:17 PM.
#35
#36
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To OP, for sure wrap as much of the front end as possible. The only other MAJOR area of concern would be the lower hips in front of the rear wheels. The factory stoneguard piece is way too small and you'll be getting lots of chips along the perimeter of that little piece
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#37
I think wrap is over rated and makes people just feel better (including me). I've had many levels of wrap. I don't think it's necessary at all and I track tons too. The wrap makes the rubber marks much harder to take off. They come off way easier when directly on paint (mothers race rubber remover). I feel like I'm protecting the paint for the next owner sometime. With all that said, my current standard is to do the entire front. You cannot tell there is a wrap if you go to someone experienced and uses xpel or sun tek. You cannot tell paint color wise and it is just as shiny as the rest of the car.
I agree and with rubber marks, the more you track the less wrap makes sense.
On every car that I've not had it done, I've never had a rock chip or paint problem. Porsche paint is also very very hard.
#38
Sorry but at least the non metallic colors, paints are very soft. Water based paints are just not as hard as the old paints. After my Cayman ED (1100 miles) it had several stone chips in the front nose. I was surprised how many in such a short time.
I do the front of my cars, since they do see the track, running in red, everyone is running sticky tires and throwing rocks. Some tracks are worst then others, depending on what's in the paddock..
I do the front of my cars, since they do see the track, running in red, everyone is running sticky tires and throwing rocks. Some tracks are worst then others, depending on what's in the paddock..
#39
Three Wheelin'
I would expect it to be the clear coat that is at issue, not the color of the paint, or necessarily the paint itself. The clear coat is the protecting layer and what will allow a chip to break through enough to take paint with it.
I would also expect underlying material (plastic, aluminum, steel, etc) and its paint prep to make a difference too. If the paint doesn't adhere properly the clear coat won't make a bit of difference because it will flake right off the base material if there is no adhesion.
Mike (not a paint expert, but I drove by a holiday inn express this morning...)
I would also expect underlying material (plastic, aluminum, steel, etc) and its paint prep to make a difference too. If the paint doesn't adhere properly the clear coat won't make a bit of difference because it will flake right off the base material if there is no adhesion.
Mike (not a paint expert, but I drove by a holiday inn express this morning...)
#40
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Can anyone tell me Suntek bs xpel. My car is red and I am doing the front end. I really won't be tracking just driving DD freeway in SoCal and some back roads in the mountains. Maybe 1 track day per year. I am told Suntek will look better in the car but xpel is thicker. The warranty might not be an issue because I won't keep the car that long. Just want the most shiny and natural one.
#41
I would expect it to be the clear coat that is at issue, not the color of the paint, or necessarily the paint itself. The clear coat is the protecting layer and what will allow a chip to break through enough to take paint with it.
I would also expect underlying material (plastic, aluminum, steel, etc) and its paint prep to make a difference too. If the paint doesn't adhere properly the clear coat won't make a bit of difference because it will flake right off the base material if there is no adhesion.
Mike (not a paint expert, but I drove by a holiday inn express this morning...)
I would also expect underlying material (plastic, aluminum, steel, etc) and its paint prep to make a difference too. If the paint doesn't adhere properly the clear coat won't make a bit of difference because it will flake right off the base material if there is no adhesion.
Mike (not a paint expert, but I drove by a holiday inn express this morning...)
#42
Three Wheelin'
It is also for appearances. It should help with keeping the car look shiny and in theory easier to clean. You should notice water bead better and for a longer period of time.
#43
Rennlist Member
I believe only for protecting the clear coat from light scratches. In theory the CQuartz is what will be lightly scratched. It won't protect against deep scratches or chips.
It is also for appearances. It should help with keeping the car look shiny and in theory easier to clean. You should notice water bead better and for a longer period of time.
It is also for appearances. It should help with keeping the car look shiny and in theory easier to clean. You should notice water bead better and for a longer period of time.
#44
Three Wheelin'
Personally installing Xpel by myself would be a nightmare. It would drive me nuts trying to line up seams, etc. Just my opinion. While it may look easy watching someone do it, it takes technique and takes a lot of time. The material is expensive so if you screw it up doing it yourself - it's your money, if the installer messes up and needs to redo a piece it I their money.
#45
I'm still debating what to do with mine. I did 3m on my 08 RS which was white and never much cared for the look as it was slightly off color. Plus some edges eventually accumulated dirt. My current car is agate and I may just put on a paint protectant like cquartz or modesta. I don't plan on tracking it.