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View Poll Results: PCCB or Steel Brakes on your 991 GT3?
PCCBs, the car is for street driving only.
150
22.76%
PCCBs, and I'll track it that way too.
148
22.46%
PCCB, but buying steel rotors or system for track.
44
6.68%
Steel brakes, it's the way I roll.
317
48.10%
Voters: 659. You may not vote on this poll

PCCB or Steel on your 991 GT3?

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Old 07-02-2018, 04:04 PM
  #241  
Mika911
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Originally Posted by Surge74
Funny to read this old thread and hear how those without PCCBs trash them, and those with PCCBs love them.

I’m going with PCCBs on my T. It’s not really a tough decision:
- $10k is not a big deal on a 911 that costs well over $100k.
- steel rotors cost $5k to replace, and you’ll be replacing them 3X as often. So in 100k miles, you’ll have spend $15k to replace steel rotors vs $20k to replace ceramics; I’d rather spend $5k more and only service the rotors once
- you do feel the 50% reduced unsprung weight! I test drove 2 911s back to back and it was obvious: better turn-in, better steering feel, incredible initial bite
- no brake dust! I can’t stand how quickly brake dust forms

cost of ceramic rotors will decrease over time, as more and more cars get them.


5k for rotors seems excessive. I pay half that for the iron discs without labour.

You will also spend a lot more on pads when using PCCB so need to factor that in too.

You cannot use economics when choosing PCCB whereas the handling advantages are clear, as well as the lack of brake dust.
Old 07-02-2018, 04:14 PM
  #242  
Surge74
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Originally Posted by CAlexio
Woah buddy! That's something different entirely...
Originally Posted by Mika911


5k for rotors seems excessive. I pay half that for the iron discs without labour.

You will also spend a lot more on pads when using PCCB so need to factor that in too.

You cannot use economics when choosing PCCB whereas the handling advantages are clear, as well as the lack of brake dust.
Ok thanks, you're right. Checked SunCoast and steel rotors and pads cost about $1400 + shipping + labor, so let's call it $2000.
$2000 x 3 = $6000.
Old 07-04-2018, 05:55 PM
  #243  
Sun Ra
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The simplest solution: my tracking GT3 is steel




And my canyon slammer is PCCB, which I like much better for aggressive two lane running




The most elegant solution, but some may find it pricey
Old 07-04-2018, 10:16 PM
  #244  
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Wow...2 GT3s! [bow]
Old 07-05-2018, 12:17 AM
  #245  
911therapy
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Originally Posted by Sun Ra
The simplest solution: my tracking GT3 is steel




And my canyon slammer is PCCB, which I like much better for aggressive two lane running




The most elegant solution, but some may find it pricey

Why is there a front license plate on your track car, and no front license plate on your street car? Regardless, awesome to have the set up for both
Old 07-05-2018, 05:33 PM
  #246  
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Originally Posted by 911therapy
Why is there a front license plate on your track car, and no front license plate on your street car? Regardless, awesome to have the set up for both
New Zealand requires front plates and it's not worth the big negative energy to go down for no plate, the car runs lots of quite illegally high speed road miles as well as track, and a lower profile for cop events is on my mind.... [FYI, In NZ, your car can be confiscated [if you own it, only a fool does personally] . for only 40 kmh over posted speed - care is needed!]
And my USA state does not "require" a front plate.

Note the Platinum wheels to hide all the brake dust on the steel car, the PCCB car has silver wheels; and that regular dust is 'cause the "track car" runs 100's of Km on gravel roads

Old 07-05-2018, 10:26 PM
  #247  
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Originally Posted by Sun Ra
New Zealand requires front plates and it's not worth the big negative energy to go down for no plate, the car runs lots of quite illegally high speed road miles as well as track, and a lower profile for cop events is on my mind.... [FYI, In NZ, your car can be confiscated [if you own it, only a fool does personally] . for only 40 kmh over posted speed - care is needed!]
And my USA state does not "require" a front plate.

Note the Platinum wheels to hide all the brake dust on the steel car, the PCCB car has silver wheels; and that regular dust is 'cause the "track car" runs 100's of Km on gravel roads

I see, makes sense!
Old 07-06-2018, 02:42 PM
  #248  
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https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...l#post15125094

Through our long term track test and feedback we can conclude that when a proper pad (especially for track application) is installed, CCM rotors can last 3/4/5.. times longer, more cost effective than conventional iron set up in additional to the less down time, consistent brake torque delivery with no fade, no crack, confidence inspiring and worry free braking performance that some serious track racers are looking for.

Our track tests for the same combo (CCM rotors + RB sintered pads) involved ZR1, Z28 (OE CCM) and GTR, Hellcat (converting from Iron) in the last 3 years.
Old 07-06-2018, 03:28 PM
  #249  
ipse dixit
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Originally Posted by RacingBrake
https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...l#post15125094

Through our long term track test and feedback we can conclude that when a proper pad (especially for track application) is installed, CCM rotors can last 3/4/5.. times longer, more cost effective than conventional iron set up in additional to the less down time, consistent brake torque delivery with no fade, no crack, confidence inspiring and worry free braking performance that some serious track racers are looking for.

Our track tests for the same combo (CCM rotors + RB sintered pads) involved ZR1, Z28 (OE CCM) and GTR, Hellcat (converting from Iron) in the last 3 years.
Do you guys have any tests on a Porsche?
Old 07-06-2018, 03:53 PM
  #250  
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Originally Posted by ipse dixit

Do you guys have any tests on a Porsche?
See this in-depth review by Dave Donohue, the renown Porsche Pro-Racer raced on Pikes Peak.
https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...l#post14334913
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Old 07-06-2018, 07:56 PM
  #251  
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Originally Posted by RacingBrake
https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...l#post15125094

Through our long term track test and feedback we can conclude that when a proper pad (especially for track application) is installed, CCM rotors can last 3/4/5.. times longer, more cost effective than conventional iron set up in additional to the less down time, consistent brake torque delivery with no fade, no crack, confidence inspiring and worry free braking performance that some serious track racers are looking for.

Our track tests for the same combo (CCM rotors + RB sintered pads) involved ZR1, Z28 (OE CCM) and GTR, Hellcat (converting from Iron) in the last 3 years.
Racing brake, can you PM me what it would cost to replace my PCCB for 991.2 GT3 with your CCM rotors and sintered pads?
Old 07-06-2018, 10:57 PM
  #252  
ipse dixit
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Originally Posted by RacingBrake
See this in-depth review by Dave Donohue, the renown Porsche Pro-Racer raced on Pikes Peak.
https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...l#post14334913
That's a review by you.
Old 07-07-2018, 01:54 AM
  #253  
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Default Poll Needs New category

A choice not on the poll....

Buying Steel for caliper-to-barrel clearance then going aftermart CCB/pads
Old 07-10-2018, 12:46 PM
  #254  
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Originally Posted by Perimeter
A choice not on the poll....

Buying Steel for caliper-to-barrel clearance then going aftermart CCB/pads
That would be RB CCB Conversion Rotor Kit (380/380=OE) for 991 GT3 (w/Iron) (P/N 2C77 & 2C56) here:

https://www.racingbrake.com/RB-CCB-R...por-crk-07.htm

The rear rotors are now made to same as stock size (380x30) for a direct swap to iron rotors w/o any modification.
Old 07-10-2018, 12:52 PM
  #255  
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Originally Posted by ipse dixit
That's a review by you.
It was reviewed by David Donohue - A Professional Porsche Racer.

Here is a most recent long term review by John Jacobson of GT350 driver:
--------------------------------------------
It's half way through the 2018 track season and I've put three more track days on my CCB's.

My opinion of them hasn't changed. I love these things. They are the best brakes I've ever driven with, and I've had AP Racing, Brembo Racing, Stoptech and a variety of OEM setups.

For track work, the "streetable" sintered pads are perfect. Super consistent delivering massive stopping power, excellent modulation and consistent brake feel from cold to hot. As for wear, after six track days, the total pad thickness (two pads pressed face to face) has gone from 34.0 mm to 33.0 mm. That's consistent with last year's level of wear. One thing to note - these pads can be noisy. When they're hot they're quiet, but cold, they make a soft whirring sound and the occasional squeal. I've found that a few minutes with a file to chamfer the edges of the friction material seems to reduce the squealing to a level that I can live with.

There is a new addition to the setup for this year - I picked up a set of Racing Brake rear rotors. They maintain the hand brake function (unlike virtually every other aftermarket rear rotor for the GT350) and they are a direct fit into the existing setup. They're 380x28, which is 2mm thicker than OEM, but the OEM calipers take new pads with no problem. I'm running mine with Pagid RSL29's and the brake balance with the front is excellent. They're directional rotors with large vanes so they cool really well. You lose a couple of pounds of weight, but it's not a major reduction - it's all about shedding heat for these things.



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