Any aesthetic car care DIY requests?
#32
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Never got the point of these rinseless washes, other than no access to water.
Whole point of running water over the paint is to wash off any particles that will scratch the clear coat if wiped around. If the car is coated, 98% of anything on the paint will come off with just a spray down. A lot to be said there.
Same goes for using a power washer. I see if you want to use one of those soap cannons, but to use really high pressure on your PPF, ceramic coating, etc is overkill. If anything, will strip any wax right off and give you less longevity on a ceramic coating.
Save power washers for concrete and stripping stain off of decks.
At the end, I like to use a Master Blaster to blow almost all the water off the car. Once again, less touching of the paint. Gets all the water out of all those trim pieces, mirrors, etc too. You will only need a few micro fibers and quick detailer spray to finish off. The door jambs, hood, etc will need proper wiping down.
Whole point of running water over the paint is to wash off any particles that will scratch the clear coat if wiped around. If the car is coated, 98% of anything on the paint will come off with just a spray down. A lot to be said there.
Same goes for using a power washer. I see if you want to use one of those soap cannons, but to use really high pressure on your PPF, ceramic coating, etc is overkill. If anything, will strip any wax right off and give you less longevity on a ceramic coating.
Save power washers for concrete and stripping stain off of decks.
At the end, I like to use a Master Blaster to blow almost all the water off the car. Once again, less touching of the paint. Gets all the water out of all those trim pieces, mirrors, etc too. You will only need a few micro fibers and quick detailer spray to finish off. The door jambs, hood, etc will need proper wiping down.
Cool! the only thing I've found Costco MF is suited for is brake dust removal and inside door jams...
Here's a list if you might recommend what you would use and like for these tasks.
Here's a list if you might recommend what you would use and like for these tasks.
- Window cleaning for spotless results.
- Wax off and buffing
- Detailing spray off
- Interior detailing
For use on paint that is in great condition, try these microfiber towels. These will be great for use on interior dash screens and cluster covers.
For use on paint that is in less than ideal condition, these microfiber towels will offer a nice measure of pile without being overly costly considering the condition of the paint. These would also work for interior vinyl and leather surfaces.
As with all microfiber towels, be sure to wash them before use. Wash on low-heat or no-heat, use a free and clear detergent and air tumble in your dryer. If you've used softener in your washing machines, you may want to hand wash your towels or they will become hydrophobic(will not absorb water). Softener practically destroys MF towels.
Enjoy.
#34
Rennlist Member
I’ve got one for you. Had my car (2009 C2S) for over a year now and all of a sudden one of the clear rock guards on the rear fender has turned almost cloudy looking. It’s almost like it has some kind of film on it but I can no longer get it clean/clear. The other one looks fine. Every now and then I add onr to my soap, I use griots detailer spray, and optimum spray wax. Due to the age I plan to replace both guards anyway but don’t want to damage the news one. Any clue why one of the existing ones has become discolored?
#35
Race Director
What about a quick spray detailer you can recommend if say a bird baptizes your car and you have a small area to clean up. Also - I have seen people, after rinsing the car shampoo off their car applying a quick spray detailer on the wet car before drying??
#36
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
My pleasure.
Every single factory PPF I have ever seen on a car is terrible. They all yellow and they all have ugly texture. They're all non-topcoated urethane films. Place any clear plastic out in the weather and under the sun and they'll all discolor unless treated in some way.
Really though, they're wear and tear items. They should last a lifetime no more than brake pads last a lifetime. Everyone should anticipate replacing them every 5 years.
Hope this helps.
I’ve got one for you. Had my car (2009 C2S) for over a year now and all of a sudden one of the clear rock guards on the rear fender has turned almost cloudy looking. It’s almost like it has some kind of film on it but I can no longer get it clean/clear. The other one looks fine. Every now and then I add onr to my soap, I use griots detailer spray, and optimum spray wax. Due to the age I plan to replace both guards anyway but don’t want to damage the news one. Any clue why one of the existing ones has become discolored?
Really though, they're wear and tear items. They should last a lifetime no more than brake pads last a lifetime. Everyone should anticipate replacing them every 5 years.
Hope this helps.
#37
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#38
Rennlist Member
What do you think about car washing intervals. I always thought that longer intervals will be better for paint as there is less rubbing, etc. Is there a downside in leaving dirt on the car? I don't mean dirt after track days, just the regular cr$p.
thanks in advance!
PS: I like my cars dirty, as it reminds me that I use them as intended. Plus, a dirty GT silver GT3 will pass for any regular 911 when grocery shopping. But if it's bad for the paint, I am ready to change habits.
thanks in advance!
PS: I like my cars dirty, as it reminds me that I use them as intended. Plus, a dirty GT silver GT3 will pass for any regular 911 when grocery shopping. But if it's bad for the paint, I am ready to change habits.
#39
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
What do you think about car washing intervals. I always thought that longer intervals will be better for paint as there is less rubbing, etc. Is there a downside in leaving dirt on the car? I don't mean dirt after track days, just the regular cr$p.
thanks in advance!
PS: I like my cars dirty, as it reminds me that I use them as intended. Plus, a dirty GT silver GT3 will pass for any regular 911 when grocery shopping. But if it's bad for the paint, I am ready to change habits.
thanks in advance!
PS: I like my cars dirty, as it reminds me that I use them as intended. Plus, a dirty GT silver GT3 will pass for any regular 911 when grocery shopping. But if it's bad for the paint, I am ready to change habits.
The wildcard is chemical exposure though. You can see dirt but you can't see what chemicals the paint's been exposed to. And everything that can leak from a transfer truck, engine, car, etc. can find its way off the road and onto the body. This is another reason regular maintenance washes are a good idea. It simply covers some bases one can't otherwise account for.
You are right in that washing too much can also be bad. Once one understands good car care, good judgement based upon knowledge should be their guide.
#40
Rennlist Member
JC - in a different thread a user was asking for some advice how to deal with discoloration on his centerlocks as a result of 'hard water'. Here is the link, figured you may have some insight to add:
https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...oloration.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...oloration.html
#41
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
JC - in a different thread a user was asking for some advice how to deal with discoloration on his centerlocks as a result of 'hard water'. Here is the link, figured you may have some insight to add:
https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...oloration.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...oloration.html
#42
Drifting
You touched upon Alcantara. But what about the black leather seats and dash/doors in the GT3? Don't really need "cleaning" per se, but more along the lines of how to keep them conditioned properly when new. I'd like to avoid creams if possible. Is there a simple way to keep the leather from fading and cracking or turning shiny? And many products out there have bad reviews on black leather because they either make the leather glossy or leave a milky film behind.
Also RE: rinse-less wash. To my extreme disappointment, I discovered the shop whom I paid a lot of money to PPF and paint correct my car is not allowed (due to local laws) to use water to wash their customers' cars. How crazy is that? A detailer/PPF shop can't actually wash cars. So I paid a lot of money for paint correction and the shop uses ONR rinseless wash. I gotta wonder how good of a job was actually done before the PPF went on...
Also RE: rinse-less wash. To my extreme disappointment, I discovered the shop whom I paid a lot of money to PPF and paint correct my car is not allowed (due to local laws) to use water to wash their customers' cars. How crazy is that? A detailer/PPF shop can't actually wash cars. So I paid a lot of money for paint correction and the shop uses ONR rinseless wash. I gotta wonder how good of a job was actually done before the PPF went on...
#43
You touched upon Alcantara. But what about the black leather seats and dash/doors in the GT3? Don't really need "cleaning" per se, but more along the lines of how to keep them conditioned properly when new. I'd like to avoid creams if possible. Is there a simple way to keep the leather from fading and cracking or turning shiny? And many products out there have bad reviews on black leather because they either make the leather glossy or leave a milky film behind.
Also RE: rinse-less wash. To my extreme disappointment, I discovered the shop whom I paid a lot of money to PPF and paint correct my car is not allowed (due to local laws) to use water to wash their customers' cars. How crazy is that? A detailer/PPF shop can't actually wash cars. So I paid a lot of money for paint correction and the shop uses ONR rinseless wash. I gotta wonder how good of a job was actually done before the PPF went on...
Also RE: rinse-less wash. To my extreme disappointment, I discovered the shop whom I paid a lot of money to PPF and paint correct my car is not allowed (due to local laws) to use water to wash their customers' cars. How crazy is that? A detailer/PPF shop can't actually wash cars. So I paid a lot of money for paint correction and the shop uses ONR rinseless wash. I gotta wonder how good of a job was actually done before the PPF went on...
Recently switched to Adam's leather cleaning and conditioner products. It is good.....but I prefer Ammo. Might switch back.
I feel Ammo did a better job in the sense the leather feels and looks cleaner than Adam's.
#44
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
You touched upon Alcantara. But what about the black leather seats and dash/doors in the GT3? Don't really need "cleaning" per se, but more along the lines of how to keep them conditioned properly when new. I'd like to avoid creams if possible. Is there a simple way to keep the leather from fading and cracking or turning shiny? And many products out there have bad reviews on black leather because they either make the leather glossy or leave a milky film behind.
Also RE: rinse-less wash. To my extreme disappointment, I discovered the shop whom I paid a lot of money to PPF and paint correct my car is not allowed (due to local laws) to use water to wash their customers' cars. How crazy is that? A detailer/PPF shop can't actually wash cars. So I paid a lot of money for paint correction and the shop uses ONR rinseless wash. I gotta wonder how good of a job was actually done before the PPF went on...
Also RE: rinse-less wash. To my extreme disappointment, I discovered the shop whom I paid a lot of money to PPF and paint correct my car is not allowed (due to local laws) to use water to wash their customers' cars. How crazy is that? A detailer/PPF shop can't actually wash cars. So I paid a lot of money for paint correction and the shop uses ONR rinseless wash. I gotta wonder how good of a job was actually done before the PPF went on...
I am not a fan of prepping cars with ONR due to the polymers found therein. Folks use it over coated surfaces and believe they have a strong chemical membrane still because of the water behavior when in reality they're just adding a hydrophobic layer of polymers which the water is responding to. It has a generation, by and large, of coating installers and private owners with the wool pulled over their eyes. There's a place for ONR but I am not really feeling prepping a car for paint correction or coatings being it. But if that's all someone has....I dunno...it's perceivable that someone is going through the steps to remove any fillers left over by ONR with another decontamination phase.
With all of that said, it doesn't mean you didn't get exactly what you paid for unless you were specifically told they were not going to use it. Are you happy with how it looks and performs?
#45
Drifting
Leather Master Soft Cleaner (link provided) is great for use on Porsche's urethane treated leathers. When it comes to conditioning, use Leather Master Vital. Dry wipe with a quality MF towel after it sits for a while. It will condition and not leave a surface greasy unless you wildly over do it on the applications and exhibit gross negligence in an application.
With all of that said, it doesn't mean you didn't get exactly what you paid for unless you were specifically told they were not going to use it. Are you happy with how it looks and performs?