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991 DIY Oil Change

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Old 07-11-2012, 06:07 PM
  #16
Cowhorn
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Could you have someone video you doing the oil change and then post it on You Tube? Thanks.
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Old 08-07-2012, 02:46 PM
  #17
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Originally Posted by CarManDSL View Post
The manual on page 201 states that the difference between min and max marks on display is 1.8 quarts (1.7 liters).

Engine oil capacity with filter is 1.98 gallons or 7.5 liters.

It would be nice if they listed instructions on something simple like an oil change.

It's the same with and without the filter according to the WS manual.

Technical values

Location____________________ Description___________________Type ________Basic value

Oil drain plug to oil pan M18 x 1.5 – replace sealing ring Tightening torque 50 Nm (37 ftlb.)

Oil filter cover Replace and grease O-ring Tightening torque 25 Nm (19 ftlb.)

Engine oil change quantity Engine MA 103 / MA 104 Filling capacity with and without filter 7.5 l


Engine quantity for a new engine Engine MA 103/MA 104 Filling capacity 10.1 l



Draining engine oil
→ Let the fluid cool down.
→ Wear personal protective gear.


1. Extend the rear spoiler using the switch on the centre console (ignition on).
2. Open the cap on the service tray by turning it anti-clockwise.

Oil inlet cap and cover on plug
3. Unscrew the oil drain plug at the oil pan (a/f 8 hexagon socket) and drain the engine oil into a suitable container.
3.1. Replace sealing ring.
4. After draining the engine oil, fit the oil drain plug with a new sealing ring.
→ Tightening torque: 50 Nm (37 ftlb.)
5. If the cap is damaged, it must be replaced.



Never use a sharp object to remove or fit the O-ring on the oil filter cover.
Do not scratch the sealing surface of the oil-filter housing.



The oil filter is in the engine compartment:

2. Loosen the oil filter cover at the hexagon (a/f 27).
2.1. Cover adjacent components with clean cloths to prevent oil from dripping onto or into them.

3. Carefully remove the oil filter cover and wipe off residual oil with a cloth.
3.1. Pull the filter element -1- out of the housing using a cloth -2- and wrap it in the cloth.

Filter element
4. Lever off the old O-ring on the oil filter cover by using a plastic spatula.


5. Clean oil filter cover thoroughly inside and out.
5.1. Fit a new O-ring and grease lightly with KlŘber Syntheso Glep (Part No. 000.043.204.68).
6. Clean the oil-filter housing -1- with a clean cloth.

Oil-filter housing
7. Fit new filter element - it can be fitted on either side.
8. Screw in the oil filter cover and tighten to the specified torque.
→ Tightening torque: 25 Nm (19 ftlb.)
9. Install engine-compartment blower.

Filling engine oil
1. Place a clean cloth over the generator and drive belt to catch any oil that overflows.
Caution

Incorrect oil level
Damage to engine and catalytic converter.


2. Slowly pour in new engine oil using a clean container or filler nozzle.
Observe the prescribed filling capacity!

Engine oil filling capacities:
→ Filling capacity with and without filter: 7.5 l
→ Filling capacity: 10.1 l
3. Screw on and tighten cap on the service tray.
4. Check engine-oil level.




I will copy the thread in the 991 DIY section.


Thanks

J.
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Old 08-07-2012, 03:15 PM
  #18
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One more thing. Temperature changes can cause the engine-compartment blower to start up at any time. Given this, always disconnect the plug connection for the rear spoiler before removal. There's a danger of limbs being trapped or severed.

To prevent this unclip the cover at the right-hand side of the engine compartment and disconnect plug connection for the rear spoiler.
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Old 09-07-2012, 04:38 PM
  #19
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Great Info. Now I need to go buy a decent torque wrench..
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Old 09-30-2012, 09:05 PM
  #20
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First oil change is ALWAYS the most important oil change of an engines life as most wear occurs at this time...,,,I highly recommend doing this from 1000 to 2,000 miles for the sake of the car (and especially for any one planning on keeping their car beyond the warranty period.) Porsche reccomendations are soley to get the car through the warranty period, than it wants you to buy parts Some people even argue "the early oil change", after break in, is the only oil change that is really necessary. For me, $85 or even $185 is a minor expenditure to do the right thing on a $100K car so I plan on 1200, 5K and than every 5 K miles from there , At a minimum consider 7500 mile changes and I feel sorry for any one who buys your car after 15k oil changes
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Old 10-13-2012, 04:40 AM
  #21
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When all things fail have it replaced.
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Old 11-11-2012, 09:08 PM
  #22
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I put over 2k mi on my 991 after Z delivery, so following a long-held practice with new cars, I performed the first oil/filter change earlier than scheduled. The OP's write-up was quite helpful, and I must say that despite the $350 my dealer charges for this service, changing the oil on the 991 is easier than on almost all of the other cars I've owned and serviced in recent years. The reason is that there's no belly pan to remove, and the filter is accessed from the top of the engine. Of course, having a lift in my garage makes it that much easier.

Here's some tips that may prove helpful beyond the excellent write-up at the start of this thread....

1. There's a handy filter compatibility chart at http://www.js-filter.com/catalogue/filter/130690/OE0083. Many of these filters are of oem quality and can be had for far less than a dealer would charge, eg, my dealer charged $30 w/o an o ring and crush washer. But, be aware that when these items are included in a kit, they may not fit the 991 b/c the filter itself fits other vehicles. Best bet is probably to go with the suncoast kit.

2. Although precise dis-assembly of the fans and cover is not critical, reassembly should proceed with the fans not attached to the cover. Fitting the fan nipples to the rubber grommets, and the cover to the fan grommets, is far easier that way, and lessens the chance of pushing a grommet through the hole it fits in. Ask me how I know

3. Should you loose a grommet in this process, be aware that there are at least three different sized grommets in the engine compartment, the smallest of which is used for the "Mobile 1" cover on the right side of the engine compartment. This grommet was not correctly shown on the exploded diagram sent to me by suncoast. However, a standard elec grommet--quarter inch I believe--will suffice in a pinch until Porsche corrects the diagram

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Old 01-12-2013, 10:40 PM
  #23
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Hi guys - mine is due for an oil change, has anyone in the forum used the durametric tool to reset the warning message ? if so, encountered any issues ? I am about to buy the tool. Your inputs much appreciated
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Old 07-08-2014, 12:23 AM
  #24
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I've found that 7.5L is equal to about ~8 quarts. Add 7 1/2 quarts and measure it.
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Old 09-03-2014, 08:08 PM
  #25
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Same procedure for the 991 TT/S??
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Old 10-17-2014, 04:36 PM
  #26
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Good tip.
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Old 07-08-2015, 10:17 PM
  #27
eturboS
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Default 991 DIY Oil Change

If it took you a total of 35 min. You didn't drain it enough you need to drain it till it stops dripping you probably over filled it plus it takes 8.5 liters of oil
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Old 10-01-2016, 12:51 AM
  #28
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I just finished doing a my 1 year and 1001 mile oil change tonight. The oil filter housing takes 36mm socket. Someone posted 37mm. I went with 15-50 wt. Mobil1 as I live where it does get very cold. Also went with the OEM filter for warranty sake, I have a K&N for the next time. My oil reminder light has not come on yet. As i mentioned earlier the cars bday was the 24th of Sept. Maybe tomorrow.
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Old 03-03-2017, 06:24 PM
  #29
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Originally Posted by last993 View Post
Hi guys - mine is due for an oil change, has anyone in the forum used the durametric tool to reset the warning message ? if so, encountered any issues ? I am about to buy the tool. Your inputs much appreciated


Interested on this as well.
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Old 07-06-2017, 12:47 AM
  #30
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Changed oil on my 2015 991 C2S using the hints provided here. Spot on advice. Ended up costing about $90, but it was a very enjoyable experience, with the excellent guidance provided here.
Regarding the durametric tool, anyone have advice on resetting the reminder? I heard that some dealers are willing to adjust it, and others have mentioned that if they do, it will also be recorded on Carfax records. Anyone have experience with that? Any recommendations for a tool to reset it?
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