What to look out for with a tracked auto
#1
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I'm looking at a '07 S with 18K miles. The car has been outfitted with Softronic plenum, barla exhaust and Toyo racing tires. The owner said it's only been tracked twice. I'm skeptical, but... What are the things I should be looking for to determine how much and how hard it's been tracked? What are the things most likely to be older than 18K because it's been tracked?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#2
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Almost everything that is a "wear and tear" item has it's life diminished by track use.
Brakes, suspension components, tires, fluids you'd expect to be the most affected. These are for the most part, easily replaced/renewed.
The biggest thing IMO is the overrev history of the car. Significant overrevs would be a deal breaker for me.
BD
Brakes, suspension components, tires, fluids you'd expect to be the most affected. These are for the most part, easily replaced/renewed.
The biggest thing IMO is the overrev history of the car. Significant overrevs would be a deal breaker for me.
BD
#3
Race Director
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I'm looking at a '07 S with 18K miles. The car has been outfitted with Softronic plenum, barla exhaust and Toyo racing tires. The owner said it's only been tracked twice. I'm skeptical, but... What are the things I should be looking for to determine how much and how hard it's been tracked? What are the things most likely to be older than 18K because it's been tracked?
Thanks.
Thanks.
The racing tires scares me a bit. These engines are not suited to very high g-forces that can arise from the car being driven with racing tires.
I admit I have an overly active imagination but perhaps during the 2nd track visit the driver noticed the oil warning light flashing....
Ok. Imagination off. If you do decide to seriously consider the car be sure you listen to the engine start up from dead cold and while it warms up listening for any disturbing noises.
The engine should fire right up and settle into a fast idle though it might be a bit rough. As the engine warms up the idle speed should drop and the idle smooth out.
Before you start the engine be sure the A/C is off and when you turn the key to on all the dash lights come on, including the CEL. They should all go off as soon as you turn the key to start and the engine starts.
While the engine idles, listen to the engine. Walk around the car. Get down and listen just ahead of both rear wheels. Listen directly behind the car on both sides of the exhaust.
Have the owner take for you for a long test ride (approx. 15 miles) and demo the car under all reasonable driving situations: city stop/go, medium speed to high speed crusing. Have him run the engine up through as many gears as is safe starting from near idle then shifting to the next higher car at redline and if possible continuing to accelerate. The engine should pull cleanly and smoothly through the entire rpm range.
Afterwards, if you still like the car, you now drive the car over the same route and drive the car the same way.
The car is just a used car so treat it to a thorough used car inspection/check out. Assume nothing works until you verify it works.
If you still want the car, and believe you can cut a deal with the seller, then have a PPI done. Drop the oil filter housing. Check the filter. (The PPI will have to replace the filter so take one along with all the necessary o-rings with you.)
Overrev counts must be pulled. And I'd be sure you choose a place that can tell if the car's been 'chipped' or 'flashed' even if this may have been undone by the seller.
Be sure the car has not had an off. I'd like to have the alignment checked to be sure it is not too far out or the adjustments have been used to bring a bent car into some kind of reasonable alignment.
Sincerely,
Macster.
#4
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Two track days would not spook me off a car in the least. Having run hundreds of track days over the past 15 years, almost all wear items show up in suspension components, but it takes a whole lot more than two track days to even begin to see anything like that.
#5
Race Director
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Fitting R-Compound tires to a car absolutely does not void any warranty. They are not 'racing tires' per se (those would be slicks) and are DOT approved. While they offer appx 20 % more grip than a front line summer performance tire, they are not going to stress a 987 with oil starvation issues as there is simply not that much grip available.
Two track days would not spook me off a car in the least. Having run hundreds of track days over the past 15 years, almost all wear items show up in suspension components, but it takes a whole lot more than two track days to even begin to see anything like that.
Two track days would not spook me off a car in the least. Having run hundreds of track days over the past 15 years, almost all wear items show up in suspension components, but it takes a whole lot more than two track days to even begin to see anything like that.
Sincerely,
Macster.
#6
Drifting
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Typical Porsche. No warnings against r-comps or track use, but the lack of N-rated r-comps rather implies they violate the owner's manual recommendations.
#7
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The Michelin Pilot Sport Cup is N-spec, and an 'R-comp' tire.
Perhaps it is not made in sizes for your car, but Porsche actually advertises the PSC with wheel combo as a Techquipment option for non-GT models.
Perhaps it is not made in sizes for your car, but Porsche actually advertises the PSC with wheel combo as a Techquipment option for non-GT models.