stevek-o

I need to increase my negative camber in the front from -0.75 degrees to at least -2.0 degrees. I am eating up tires at the track. I corded a nice set of Sport Cups ont the left outside edge last weekend at BIR and had to buy Hoosiers at the track. The Hooisers had bad outiside wear on them after 7 sessions of DE.

So, some people tell me to get the adjustable GT3 lower control arms. I searched the forums about that and I know Suncoast sells a kit with them and new trailing arms. Local shops here do the work with the stock trailing arms and spacers. Can anyone point to a DIY or more info on that? I would rather do the work myself and would like to keep the cost down.

Also, I couple people told me to skip the adjustable control arms and put in camber plates. Given I want to do the work myself, which is better?

If I should post this in a different forum, please let me know. Thanks.

Steve
'05 987S PASM, Chrono

Bill Lehman

The best solution is to go with the GT3 LCA but camber plates will work for less money. When I got my GT3 LCA, the parts ran about $1150, Labor $325, and Alignment $325. The parts included the trailing arms which were about $400. You can use the existing trailing arms with spacers (flat washers). I've used Suncoast for some parts and they were fine. Another source is Tarett Engineering. You might try a search on Planet 9 for more info.

savyboy

GT3 LCA's are the *right* way to do it. Tarrett is a good source for everything.

eric523

agreed. GT3 lower control arms are the way to go.

renvagn

As with the 951's with stock arms, does the 987's if lowered, does this place increeased and dangerous stress on the joint? Would any special spring be required to work with PSM or is that only to work with PASM.

Bill Lehman

I haven't heard of any issues with lowered 987s and "joint" stress. If you have PASM, you would need compatible coil-overs.

stevek-o

Thanks for the help on this. I did look on Planet 9 and found this informative thread that lists the spacer size you need to use stock trailing arms and as an alternative gives the idea of using the stock trailing arm bushings in the GT3 LCA:

http://www.planet-9.com/cayman-boxst...trol-arms.html

renvagn

What is the stock street alignment for camber and how much can you get out of the stock CA's for a 987??

Bill Lehman

I'm not sure what the factory stock range is but -.7 is about all you can get with the factory slots. I'm running the GT3 LCA at -2.5 and think a little more negative might be useful. I'm maxed at the rear @ -2.5 and definitely could use more there looking at tire wear.

renvagn

Bill,
On my track car (not a 987) I run between 2.75 and 3.00 with R-6's or BFG's and they wear fine. But I have a very tweaked race suspension. If your pushing the car hard on track, you are most likely exceeding the limits of the suspension and need to upgrade spring rates and bars. I have had many students that have had boat floaty cars and needed to be dialed back in. When they begin to initiate smooth early inputs are suddenly the quickest thru the corners.

umwolverine

I'm running -2.8 f and -1.8 rear on 245/265 18 Nitto NT-01's. I'm getting over 1.5g's (Traqmate) consistently on the track and the handling is just about perfect. I've got GT3 control arms and plates, Tarret sway bars and drop links front and rear. Otherwise I have stock PASM. I'm sitting way up high, especially in the rear so the back end moves around a bit under hard braking, but otherwise I would highly recommend this setup.

stevek-o

What car do you have thsi setup on? What is the advantage of the Tarett sway bars and links?

umwolverine

I'm running this on an 06 Cayman S that's been modified with Plenum/TB and exhaust. I can tell you it's a great setup because I passed the Porsche factory driver in the new Boxster Spyder twice on the track pretty easily. When I talked to him afterwards he said we were even on the straight but he couldn't keep up with me in the curves. Now of course he was running Michelin PS2's, and I was on R comps, but given he has a *bit* more driving skill I figure the setup must be pretty darn good.

The Tarret bars and drop-links pretty much eliminate body roll without compromising suspension travel if you set the bars up with zero preload. A 'must have' IMO.

stevek-o

Thanks for the info. I looked at the Tarett bars and they seem to have the same stiffness as stock, but hollow and lighter. I get that lighter is better. All the roll difference is in the ajustablity to eliminate shock pre-load?

Bill Lehman

umwolverine, I am running a similar set-up on a Cayman. What settings are you using on the bars?