renvagn

Picked up the car over the weekend and trailered it home from the Lexus dealership. Planning on doing some basic maintenance right away, but have been unable to find a source for a Haynes manual. There not the best but have a few pics and some torque settings. I have not had the car on the lift yet and have some questions stupid questions.

Do you have a source for Haynes or is there a better mechanical manual available.

Where is the drain plug located and is the filter easy to reach. What is the torque for the drain plug and filter?

How is the air filter accessed?

Will any 50/50 coolant solution work and do I want to fill it to the top mark or leave some room for expansion?

What product is good to recondition the top providing water proofing? Thanks

Macster

Bentley publishes a "shop" manual for the 986 cars. Not sure there's one out yet for the 987s.

For my 08 Cayman S I used the torque settings for my 986: drain plug 37 ft lbs; oil filter housing 19 ft lbs. This latter number is +/- 1 ft lb so have an accurate torque wrench. You should have one anyhow.

Always use a new drain plug washer and a new o-ring on the oil filter housing.

I believe the engine air filter for the 987 car is accessed the same way as the air filter for the 986 car: By putting the top in the service engine position and removing the engine cover carpet cover then the engine cover proper. The air filter is contained in a sliding tray that is held in place with a couple of spring clips. Once you have the thing exposed it should be self-evident how to remove the filter.

There's some disagreement on mixing anti-freeze. There were reports of gelling by mixing incompatible anti-freezes. Some claimed this was a rumor but some anti-freeze makers now claim their product doesn't cause gell which suggests there was a problem.

I've never run anything but Porsche anti-freeze in my Porsches and I have a gallon jug on hand just in case so I don't worry about mixing anti-freeze.

A 50/50 mixture of the proper anti-freeze and distilled water should suffice to protect the engine from freezing down to nearly 40 below 0. Coolant boiling is controlled more by the cooling system being able to hold pressure than the anti-freeze/water ratio. Take care of any small coolant leaks pronto.

Cold the level should be mid-way between the min and the max lines. Cold the level will be a bit low -- but it should still be above the min line -- and hot the level will be higher.

Can't help you with the top reconditioning. The canvas is not the water proof layer, it simply protects the rubber sheet underneath from UV rays and other damaging things. It is the rubber sheet under the canvas that is the water proof layer.

That said many like to see water bead up on the canvas and for those that do there is a top treatment they seem to favor. Raggtop comes to mind but don't quote me.

I've never treated the top with anything. I do keep it clean and to this end I always avoid parking under trees and quickly wash off any bird mess.

On a related note: Be sure to check the front and rear drains for any blockage.

Sincerely,

Macster.

renvagn

Macster, Thank you for the info. No surprise that this car is just a little different than my 89, 951, given 16 years of new technology.

When I did a search I saw some statements involving them having to reset the oil light/computer following a oil change. Will this be the case with the 05?

Also, do these cars tend to loose a little coolant over time as the manual suggest regular checking?

VGM911

I'm on my third convertible, and never knew about the rubber sheet. I always thought that the canvas fabric was the waterproof layer, but your explanation of how the top is constructed makes a great deal of sense. Thanks!

number9ine

The "Service Now" indicator will show in your OBC when a specified mileage has passed, and it's just a nag designed to make you spend money at the dealer. You can pay them to clear it, or buy a Durametric (about $300) to do it yourself. It has no bearing on the car's performance (unless you forget to change the oil ), you could leave it on 'til kingdom come and clear it manually when you start the car.

I assume the manual's note about coolant is a missive from Legal because of a common woe on the 986, cracked coolant expansion tanks bleeding coolant into the rear trunk under the carpet, where it wasn't noticed until a) the expansion tank level warning came on, or b) the car overheated and cooked an engine. The tank caps went through a number of revisions due to leakage as well. Your coolant is just fine if it sits between the MIN and MAX markings on the plastic in your trunk. If it's too close to MIN for your comfort, add distilled water, no coolant. You're not going to upset the mix enough to justify buying Porsche-recommended coolant for $$$. If it's below MIN, take your car in and have it looked at. Something is leaking: tank, cap, hose, radiator, water pump, etc. The coolant system should require no fill maintenance unless it's been compromised.

The "rubber sheet" is more of a layer, all modern convertible tops have layers to account for weather protection, sound deadening, and cosmetics. Cleaning your top regularly is good enough for people who garage their cars and live above the sunbelt. I take the extra step of protecting my wife's Boxster top with some Porsche spray conditioner I bought at the parts counter. It beads rain nicely, helps prevent UV-induced color fading and prevents the outdoors from sticking to the fabric. I wash the top from the same bucket I use to wash the car, using a microfiber mitt to avoid the pilling that happens with wool.


For your maintenance, there are lots of DIYs posted here and over on Renntech. You might want to look up a fellow called Porschelibrarian, he can help you get a factory service manual. Enjoy the ride.

Macster

My experience with my 02 Boxster over 230K miles is as long as the cooling system leak free the system does not loose coolant.

The only times my Boxster's cooling system has lost coolant was after I hit some road debris and busted the driver's side radiator, the cap developed a leak, and the coolant tank cracked/split. This just happened a few weeks ago.

When I had the radiator replaced and the system refilled with coolant I never had to add coolant for several years and uncounted thousands of miles until the level dropped and the light came on. I traced this to a leaking cap. I topped up the cooling system fluid level and replaced the cap and the fluid level remained ok for again years and thousands of miles untll the tank finally let go.

There only reason to reset the oil computer is to get rid of the nag message. When you take the car in for service the tech should do this. If you do the oil changes yourself you'll have to make arrangements with some facility that has the means to do it for you (likely it will cost you though you might be on sufficiently good terms with your local dealer it might offer this gratis) or use an indy shop or buy a Durametric system and clear the nag yourself.

Oh, you should always keep an eye on vital fluid levels. You never know when the coolant system or the oil system can develop a leak. You can't stop it from developing a leak -- though they seem to be pretty good about not leaking -- but you can keep an eye on the fluid levels and know as early as possible a leak is present.

Ignore coolant leaks at your peril. Nothing can turn a perfectly good engine into a perfectly bad engine than a coolant leak. The engine won't blow up but it will run hot locally and these local hot spots can result in cracked heads, cylinder block or just a leaking head gasket and intermittent overheating episodes.

Sincerely,

Macster.

renvagn

Thanks for the additional info. Should the temp gauge run in the middle at 175 degrees?

Macster

The in-dash temp gage is not intended to convey accurate temperature. It is mainly for show.

Some years ago I was in AZ in very hot weather in my 02 Boxster. 116F in the shade and no shade. Boxster coolant temperature was 226F and stayed there for long time. Intake air temperature even at highway speeds 135F. Even the engine compartment fan was running all the time.

Oh, I was using an Actron scan tool to view the coolant and intake air temps in real time and using a digital cooking thermometer out the window to measure ambient air temperature.

Car ran fine and I had no problems. Had just had the oil changed less than 1000 miles earlier when I was in Sacramento. (Mobil 1 0w-40 no less.)

Finally made it out of that blasted high heat. When I got back home stopped in at dealership and asked service manager about the heat. He took all info down and contact the factory rep and the service manager told me rep had replied that as long as the coolant warning light not on or blinking there was no overheating condition.

The gage is just there for show.

You'll have to drive the car and pay attention to the gage needle's position under varying conditions.

With the A/C off, when you hear the radiator fans come on that's the sign the coolant is at 212F and when the fans turns off the coolant has dropped to 205F. If the fans switch to high speed the coolant is at 216F and the fans remain on high until the coolant temp drops to 205F.

Note the needle's position and you can sort of get a feel for the engine coolant temperature from the gage.

Sincerely,

Macster.

cvazquez

Unlike coupes or sedans, roadsters and convertibles have special requirements. Where the roadster's and convertible's fully enclosed brethren sport steel and glass, the topless car has canvas and vinyl. This makes convertible top cleaning an ongoing job. How to care for convertible tops? This question creates a myriad of challenges for the soft-top owner.

SOFT-TOP MATERIALS

You must first understand your soft top materials before knowing which convertible top cleaner will best work for you. Without this understanding, it's hard to appreciate its maintenance requirements.

Most modern convertibles and roadsters have soft tops made of a durable polyacrylic/polyester canvas or vinyl. Some things to know before choosing cloth convertible top cleaners:

* The fabric-like canvas tops feel nice and look great, while the vinyl tops are more economical and easier to maintain.
* Fabric tops have a tight weave, but they breathe.
* Unlike vinyl tops, a canvas top is not waterproof, it is only water resistant. To make the canvas top waterproof, it must be treated.
* Without protection, the canvas top is susceptible to leaking and stains.
* Likewise, vinyl tops need protection from the sun and pollutants. If you're not sure whether your top is fabric or vinyl, check with your dealer.

CONVERTIBLE TOP CLEANER KILLERS

Common cleaning products can be very harmful to your soft top. Chemicals you should not use on or near your top include ammonia, bleach, detergent, alcohol and vinegar.

Detergents, bleach and harsh acids will quickly deteriorate canvas, whereas ammonia and alcohol will dry and cloud vinyl. Take my word for it, you don't want to know what it will cost to replace your soft top. It makes for a really, really bad day. So please, know the chemicals you use before you apply any convertible top cleaner to your top.

HOW TO CLEAN YOUR CONVERTIBLE TOP

Your car's soft top is subjected to the same environmental conditions as the rest of your car. However, although it is easy to see when your car's body is dusty and dirty, it is not always easy to see when your top is dirty, especially if it's black or navy blue.

One of the biggest wear factors for canvas tops is dust in the canvas. Dust settles into the weave of the fabric and begins to act like sandpaper. Vinyl tops will also experience premature wear from dirt, but not as readily. In general, you should care for your top each time you wash your car. This does not mean you need to scrub it each time, but a good stiff rinsing is necessary. The following steps are recommended:

* Wash your soft top at least once a month (or when it is dusty or dirty) with a non-detergent-based auto shampoo. If your top is not dirty, rinse it thoroughly with plenty of cool water. Make sure the shampoo you use does not contain gloss-enhancing oils. If the shampoo contains oil, the top will absorb the oil and become a dust magnet. The recommended product is Wolfstein's RaggTopp Cleaner. It is the only cleaner recommend by the Haartz Corporation, which supplies convertible topping material for virtually every convertible manufactured throughout the world. Haartz has performed exhaustive testing on almost every product in the industry used for cleaning and protecting fabric convertible tops. For protection use the RaggTopp protection product. Apply 2-3 coats let each coat dry before applying the next coat.

* The recommended tool for washing is a soft scrub brush. Do not use a cloth, chenille-covered sponge or lamb's wool mitt, as they will leave lint. If your top has soil marks, stains or bird droppings, use a small, stiff upholstery scrub brush. If you can rub the brush across the back of your hand without scratching your skin, it's safe to use on your soft top. Do not, however, use a scrub brush on the vinyl window. It will scratch. Make sure you rinse the top thoroughly with a stiff stream of water to remove all of the shampoo and dirt.

On canvas tops, dry using a synthetic chamois or microfiber towel. The best method is to use the towel or chamois to blot up the water. Don't wipe. Do not use a terry cloth towel or diaper to dry your canvas top, as they will leave lint. On vinyl tops, a synthetic chamois or microfiber towel will also work well, as will cotton towels. On vinyl windows, microfiber towels seem to work best.

renvagn

C,
Thanks for the additional info. I ordered the rag top cleaner and conditioner last week. By the way do you know were the cabin filter is located?

Macster

On my 02 Boxster and 03 Turbo -- never had a chance to access the cabin filter in my 08 Cayman S -- it is located on the right side of the car under the passenger side plastic cowl cover.

Open the front trunk. Remove the battery cover and the passenger side cowl. You might need a special Torx bit and driver handle to loosen the screw(s) that hold the cowl cover secure. Might as well remove the driver's side cover too and check the drains are free of any debris.

While you're at it give the battery a good inspection and if the proper type check the fluid level.

The cabin filter is located right under the leading/lower edge of the windshield in a special tray. The filter should just pull out though be gentle. Likely it is dirty and you don't want to knock the dirt loose into the cavity under the filter.

Note how the filter comes out so you can install the new one just like the old one.

My memory is installing the new filter requires some finesse to get it installed properly with no gaps and without tearing/damaging the new filter.

Sincerely,

Macster.