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Brake Cooling Duct Upgrade

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Old 09-07-2017 | 10:58 AM
  #16  
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On the rear of my 987.1 I used 996 Turbo ducts modified per the following photos.
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Old 09-07-2017 | 11:30 AM
  #17  
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AWESOME photos thank you!

As for the front GT3 ducts... Sunset had them for under 4 bucks each!
Old 09-07-2017 | 05:42 PM
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If you do upgrade the ducts we recommend keeping an extra set if you do track days, if you have a high speed off they like to break away.

We keep the 997GT3 ducts in stock @ $14.95 a set, and the 997 turbo rears @ $49.95/set

https://rennpart.com/cayman/cayman-9...pgrades-track/


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Old 09-08-2017 | 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Lehman
On the rear of my 987.1 I used 996 Turbo ducts modified per the following photos.

Looking good
Old 09-09-2017 | 05:12 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by RennPart
If you do upgrade the ducts we recommend keeping an extra set if you do track days, if you have a high speed off they like to break away.
use a few zip ties and they stay on nicely.
Old 06-05-2018 | 04:12 PM
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Reviving this thread. Have folks measured actual temps on rotor and caliper surface after a track session?

Reason I ask is because I have a 987.2 S (2010 owned since new) with stock brake calipers, stock/textar sport brake pads (same as Cayman R/Spyder), Brembo rotors all around, ATE type 200 fluid, and 997 GT3 front brake ducts, Michelin pilot super sports road tires. I DE my car once or twice a year. At the last PCA RADE event in Road America (it was hot, air temps ~95F+), the front rotor and caliper temps were fine (from memory about 350deg F on rotor face, and 220-50F or so on caliper surface as measured by my laser temp gun). But the rears were about 420-465degF on rotor face and about 300-325F on caliper surface. All measurements done as soon as I came out of 30 min session and parked on paddock after run (with half lap of cool down). Brakes were solid/good over two full days of tracking (four or five - 30 min sessions per day), no fade, solid pedal, etc. Also, all calipers still look "new" red with the white porsche lettering...not the discolored brown look of overheated calipers. So I think they are not "overheating" per se. Although I run group 3, I keep the traction control on as this is my daily and don't want to bork it . This likely leads to the higher temps in rear as brakes are used for vectoring/saving my bacon when I screw up a corner.

But I'm just wondering from the track rats if 1) rear temps are within "normal" range and have nothing to worry about, and 2) what rear ducts I can install (even with some mods/hacking) to keep temps a bit more under control if needed ...for long term caliper longevity, etc. Now I just have the old stock front ducts zip tied in the rear control arms..(someone here did this hack, so why not).

It seems the answer to #2 for cheap is to get the 997 TT rear duct and cut to fit. Anyone has actual temp measurements after a 20 or 30 min track session?

Many thanks!
Old 06-06-2018 | 02:45 PM
  #22  
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I run the exact same brake setup on my car at COTA, and have had very good luck. I'm in the middle run group - never dawned on me that the rears could get too hot - was only concerned and measuring the front. My rear pad wear is incredibly low, same results - brake hood pain looks perfectly new. Curious to hear the answer to this. Next time out I will measure the rear!
Old 06-14-2018 | 02:12 PM
  #23  
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Wow, this is really good yet cheap modification!
Old 06-15-2018 | 05:21 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by gman3280
I think ECS has the 996 GT3 for under $10 now.

In the rear I'm working with a guy that has a 3d printer to improve the 997 TT rear ducts.
any updates to share?

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Old 06-18-2018 | 12:49 PM
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Yes, but I'm away from the car. I'll take pics when I can.
Old 07-09-2018 | 07:19 PM
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Bumpity. Going to the PCA half day DE at Autobahn Joliet on July 20. Looking for some feedback re rear rotor and caliper temps and if they are "good to go" (i.e., not super high) with my current hack of using stock 987.2 front ducts in the rear (ziptied). I may order the 997 turbo rear ducts from rennstore...but the surface "finned" area of those looks small.

thanks!
Old 07-09-2018 | 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by tango131
Bumpity. Going to the PCA half day DE at Autobahn Joliet on July 20. Looking for some feedback re rear rotor and caliper temps and if they are "good to go" (i.e., not super high) with my current hack of using stock 987.2 front ducts in the rear (ziptied). I may order the 997 turbo rear ducts from rennstore...but the surface "finned" area of those looks small.

thanks!
got a few pics of what you did?
Old 07-10-2018 | 04:59 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by tango131
Bumpity. Going to the PCA half day DE at Autobahn Joliet on July 20. Looking for some feedback re rear rotor and caliper temps and if they are "good to go" (i.e., not super high) with my current hack of using stock 987.2 front ducts in the rear (ziptied). I may order the 997 turbo rear ducts from rennstore...but the surface "finned" area of those looks small.

thanks!
I can't answer your question but I will also be there with another Cayman buddy and you are welcome to stop by and see what we have done - mine being a bit more extreme. Look for a grey and silver Cayman (one being my avatar) parked together.
Old 07-11-2018 | 10:12 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by certz
I can't answer your question but I will also be there with another Cayman buddy and you are welcome to stop by and see what we have done - mine being a bit more extreme. Look for a grey and silver Cayman (one being my avatar) parked together.
great, thanks. See you there. I have a silver Boxster. Will be wearing no 978. Yellow Group. You guys seem to be a bit faster, so black/white? I’ll bring my temp gun to make some measurements. For science, ya know


Last edited by tango131; 07-11-2018 at 11:57 AM.
Old 07-11-2018 | 12:00 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by RennKit-Dave
got a few pics of what you did?
I'll try to take some this weekend when I do my brake bleed. It's just a hack job, take the old front ducts and put them in rear and zip tie the heck out of them. I think i may have "flipped" them so the "larger" (ie thicker) part of the plastic is facing downward to catch more air from under the car.


edit. this is not my pic. but mine looks something like this pic, but without the GT2 hard plastic duct beneath it. I think I flipped the duct from as it is seen in this pic, so the top of the duct in this pic is now facing down (have to flip and move to other side of car).
https://www.planet-9.com/attachments...s-car-wide-jpg


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