Track alignement
#1
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Hi guys,
I have been reading a bunch of posts in the GT3/GT2 forum and they all talk about track alignment but none actually talk about any specs.
I have been messing around with my CS's alignment trying to find a good compromise for track and some street.
What are the other track junkies running in terms of specs? Is there a "secret sauce" that I need to k now about?
Thanks!
Chris
I have been reading a bunch of posts in the GT3/GT2 forum and they all talk about track alignment but none actually talk about any specs.
I have been messing around with my CS's alignment trying to find a good compromise for track and some street.
What are the other track junkies running in terms of specs? Is there a "secret sauce" that I need to k now about?
Thanks!
Chris
#2
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chk your PM
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I'm not a track junkie, or an expert on alignment, but I think a track alignment would probably include between -2 and -3 degrees camber front and rear, a little toe-out for the front, and a little toe-in for the rear. Exact specs are rarely reported because the precise optimum setup varies by car, driving style, course, and conditions. Ernie of Mantis Sport might tell us about the range of settings they use racing the CS.
The track alignment does not work very well on the road, yielding uneven tire wear and dartiness, so some who drive track, autocross, and road on the same alignment choose compromise settings. For the CS this might include -1 to -1.5 camber in front (with camber plates or lowering), with zero (or nearly zero) toe. It should be easy to get over -1.6 in the rear; still with a little toe-in.
The track alignment does not work very well on the road, yielding uneven tire wear and dartiness, so some who drive track, autocross, and road on the same alignment choose compromise settings. For the CS this might include -1 to -1.5 camber in front (with camber plates or lowering), with zero (or nearly zero) toe. It should be easy to get over -1.6 in the rear; still with a little toe-in.
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Thanks Mooty.
I'll post my alignment specs that i was running with last season with good results later when i get back home. This year I'm running more -camber (from lowering it) so that should help my rollover on both front and rear tires.
Cheers!
I'll post my alignment specs that i was running with last season with good results later when i get back home. This year I'm running more -camber (from lowering it) so that should help my rollover on both front and rear tires.
Cheers!
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Chris --
Curious what springs you went with to lower your car, and also wondering if you have PASM? I would like to lower my car, but really very much appreciate how good a job Porsche did in perfecting the ride of the car as is. I dont want to loose that.
Thanks
Michael
Curious what springs you went with to lower your car, and also wondering if you have PASM? I would like to lower my car, but really very much appreciate how good a job Porsche did in perfecting the ride of the car as is. I dont want to loose that.
Thanks
Michael
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I am using H&R springs with the factory shocks. No PASM here.
The ride does not seem much more harsh at all thus far (its been freaking snowing here again so the car has not been out much!) I have yet to track it with the new setup. The plastic brake scoops do rub over big bumps or curbs sometimes though. I don't think that you will find the lowered set up to be too much of a compromise in terms of ride. How will it be a year later on the stocks shocks working lower in their travel? Dunno yet...
I did it for two reasons: the car looks far too high and needed to come down a bit and to get the extra negative camber I needed for the track. I now running -1.5 in front and -2.0 in the rear. I expect i might have to get a bit more in front but I'll only know after the first event.
The ride does not seem much more harsh at all thus far (its been freaking snowing here again so the car has not been out much!) I have yet to track it with the new setup. The plastic brake scoops do rub over big bumps or curbs sometimes though. I don't think that you will find the lowered set up to be too much of a compromise in terms of ride. How will it be a year later on the stocks shocks working lower in their travel? Dunno yet...
I did it for two reasons: the car looks far too high and needed to come down a bit and to get the extra negative camber I needed for the track. I now running -1.5 in front and -2.0 in the rear. I expect i might have to get a bit more in front but I'll only know after the first event.
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Chris --
Thanks for the response. After I posted my original comments I got to thinking, and its not so much the "ride" that I am concerned with, as it is, the incredible job Porsche has done with the damping characteristics of the car. They have done such an incredible job of making the car take a bump, or compression, and respond to it, without additional histrionics. It takes the hit, responds nearly perfectly, and the event is over. Nearly every other car I have ever driven, just is not capable of responding to a given input inthis manner, and I would hate to loose that.
I don't know if that description makes any sense what so ever, but I hope you understand what it is I am driving at, and can comment on it.
Thanks.
Michael
PS I used to be a regular with your group a few years back. I now live in the Pacific North West, and miss Tremblant very much.
Thanks for the response. After I posted my original comments I got to thinking, and its not so much the "ride" that I am concerned with, as it is, the incredible job Porsche has done with the damping characteristics of the car. They have done such an incredible job of making the car take a bump, or compression, and respond to it, without additional histrionics. It takes the hit, responds nearly perfectly, and the event is over. Nearly every other car I have ever driven, just is not capable of responding to a given input inthis manner, and I would hate to loose that.
I don't know if that description makes any sense what so ever, but I hope you understand what it is I am driving at, and can comment on it.
Thanks.
Michael
PS I used to be a regular with your group a few years back. I now live in the Pacific North West, and miss Tremblant very much.
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#8
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Originally Posted by Chris R.
...The plastic brake scoops do rub over big bumps or curbs sometimes though.
hahaha, you actaully have the scoop still? my were long gone from all the scraping.
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Originally Posted by Chris R.
The ride does not seem much more harsh at all thus far
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#11
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I don't know about how others are running their alignment for the track, but my experience thus far is that the front needs very little camber suprisingly. Granted this is directly related to tire used, but looking at camber curve, even just visually from the outside, the suspension geometry is allowing for some compensation under load. Especially, with street tires, I do not think the car needs more than -1.1 in the front and -1.8 in the rear. R-comps is a different story and I am sure Erinie and Mooty can provide the insights on that.
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Flying Toaster,
My car with the stock settings was horrible in terms of wear on the outside of the tire from rollover. I adjusted it as much as possible with the stock adjustment and then even slotted the holes in front to get more camber and that added up to about -1.2 degree...still not enough. I was able to get -1.8 in the rear with the stock adjustment which was begining to look ok.
Now with -1.5 front and -2.0 rear it should be a bit better.
P.S. I'm not a hack driver diving into corners way too fast and understeering everywhere...
My car with the stock settings was horrible in terms of wear on the outside of the tire from rollover. I adjusted it as much as possible with the stock adjustment and then even slotted the holes in front to get more camber and that added up to about -1.2 degree...still not enough. I was able to get -1.8 in the rear with the stock adjustment which was begining to look ok.
Now with -1.5 front and -2.0 rear it should be a bit better.
P.S. I'm not a hack driver diving into corners way too fast and understeering everywhere...
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