I have modified 987.1 with about 15,000 track miles. I'd do this:
Deep sump with improved baffling
motorsports AOS
High temp brake fluid like Motul 600 or better
High performance track/ street brake pads
Max camber front which will be about neg 1.4 , zero toe with stock components
Adjustable rear toe arms, necessary to max rear camber without having bump "toe out" issues on compression. 0.05 degrees negative toe each rear wheel
Max camber rear which will be about 1.2 degrees

Drive it like this for a while until you max out the performance with your improving skills. Then upgrade suspension parts to get more negative camber and adjustability and progress to R comp tires, LSD if you don't already have one.

Thanks for the input! Not on my list above is the alignment, which I'll get to once the build settled. I'll have more questions for sure...;-)

You can replace a car, you can't replace yourself. I'd recommend prioritizing safety equipment above all else. Simpson Hybrid for stock seats at a minimum, and go right to the harnesses/buckets/bar if you can. That hybrid saved my bacon on more than one occasion over the years. Once in the driver's seat and twice coaching in the passenger-seat. **** happens, better to have it all and not need it.

A lot of great recommendations in the thread that I can't add much to otherwise. I do want to stress the first stage of suspension being front control arms and rear toe links to get the alignment in the right range for tires to last on track (such as this package). It's an investment that Will pay off in reducing consumable costs.

I see you're not too far off in CT. I hope to see you on track, maybe we'll run into each other at Limerock, Watkins Glen, or NJMP if you come down a bit south.

Regards,
John Gaydos

I read through the product description and it mentions binding on the base suspension, but not with S or PASM suspension. Never seen that stipulation before... What exactly binds?

Base models have significantly longer struts than the S models, unless optioned with the factory "sport suspension" option that came standard on the S models. These longer base struts change the geometry to the point it can bind aftermarket control arm ball joints when fully unloaded. I typically recommend a set of Ohlins or MCS for Base models to then lay the foundation for additional alignment adjustments via control arms/toe links. Vice Versa for the S models.

Regards,
John Gaydos