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I fixed the broken small vent nipple on the end of the hose connection at the vacuum pump.
Finally, a good use of JB Weld. Vac. Booster fitting at pump
I was leery of this, if it would hold, but it made a good, solid connection. It's holding well.
I thought I'd do this as a 'just in case' event.
Well, I'm glad I did.
ESC Tuning appeared to be the only vendor that had it in stock. I was also leery of ECS Tuning, from many f'ups they had years ago.
I paid for 2-day shipping so I could get it installed for a Porsche event this weekend.
I was puzzled when I didn't get a shipping update.
I contacted them today.
'Looks like we made an error, the AS vacuum line you ordered was missing from shelf when we went to pick your order. We will have to reorder a replacement and expect to have it by June 28th.'
So now, they won't get it at their place until Friday. They refunded my shipping, but this doesn’t solve the issue.
I can say, OK yeah they f’d up, but this sounds too much like their old excuses, when they sold a lot of parts they didn't have.
This also tells me they have a poor inventory control system.
The only good new is, I fixed the fitting that goes into the pump. Fixed fitting in place.
There are a few pitfalls along the way. The rigid small black vacuum line of course, came off the 3-way joiner point under the intake bellows system, top of the engine. I had to loosen and remove the front air intake to get at the 3-way joiner point to get the tube connected.
If you haven’t done this before, making sure all these bellows and rubber joining pieces are aligned properly with no gaps, is a daunting task. I did have to loosen both, in order to get it all snugly back together.
I'm happy to say this fixed my brake vacuum boost problem as well.
On the color of the fluid, I know that you can purchase different colors of racing brake fluid. That's so you know for sure you have the old stuff out. It's the exact same fluid, just with different dyes in it.
On the color of the fluid, I know that you can purchase different colors of racing brake fluid. That's so you know for sure you have the old stuff out. It's the exact same fluid, just with different dyes in it.
Last fall when I put the car down, the brake fluid was a dark amber.
In April, it was green.
Both brakes and clutch were working fine.
When I bled the system, I flushed all the green, in the calipers and the clutch slave.
After a few weeks, the green tinge seems to have come back. This is the puzzle.
Is it ABS, Master Cyl or clutch?
Brakes and clutch are working perfectly.
On the color of the fluid, I know that you can purchase different colors of racing brake fluid. That's so you know for sure you have the old stuff out. It's the exact same fluid, just with different dyes in it.
Like I said, that hasn't been true for ten years. ATE Super Blue used to be available in the US illegally but got banned because US DOT requires glycol brake fluids to be amber. The only non-amber fluids are DOT 5 silicone which should be violet.
I'm not sure of the history of your car, but the color and cloudiness makes me suspicious that it previously had silicone in it. If the system was full of DOT 5 and someone flushed the brakes with DOT 4 you'd still have residual silicone in the ABS pump (and maybe the clutch master/slave depending what they did). Over time that would work its way out as the ABS was engaged and cause the color and cloudiness issues you're seeing. But this is just an educated guess.
(For the record you should never use DOT 5 silicone in a street car, it's really the wrong stuff for that)
I'm not sure of the history of your car, but the color and cloudiness makes me suspicious that it previously had silicone in it. If the system was full of DOT 5 and someone flushed the brakes with DOT 4 you'd still have residual silicone in the ABS pump (and maybe the clutch master/slave depending what they did). Over time that would work its way out as the ABS was engaged and cause the color and cloudiness issues you're seeing. But this is just an educated guess.
That's an interesting hypothesis. I have car history of 2 German car shops with a lot of records.
There was one bleed at 80K miles. It wasn't specifically mentioned what type of fluid and for the car history it wasn't tracked.
This March was the start of my 4th ownership year. I probably should have bled the system earlier. If it was silicone, it took 3 years to show.
Of all the info on brake bleeding on Porsches, I've not seen a 'must do' for actively bleeding the ABS.
I guess for now, I'll keep an eye on it, bleed it again if it changes.
This March was the start of my 4th ownership year. I probably should have bled the system earlier. If it was silicone, it took 3 years to show.
Well, that kind of goes against my hypothesis, then. Unless what was in the reservoir when you got it was colored, but I assume you would've noticed that.
Originally Posted by ClemCLone
Of all the info on brake bleeding on Porsches, I've not seen a 'must do' for actively bleeding the ABS.
The service manual specifically says you don't have to unless you change the module or get air in it and can't get a firm pedal via normal bleeding. It holds a bit of fluid, but any moisture in there should distribute itself through the new fluid after you do a flush. Some folks do bleed it on a regular basis but I'm not convinced it's necessary.
In this case, however, I might bleed the whole system again and do the ABS pump bleed as well.
06-25-2024, 03:38 PM
Update: On my brake system problem.
