Instrument cluster failure
#1
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hello,
I'm disappointed, I have a persistent problem with my instrument.![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
After few week without drive my 987-1 (2005), I've now a problem with instrument.
All digital are ok (led, panel), I can read autonomy for example. Regulator is ok, electrical window, sunroof, etc.
Only the 4 analog is HS (speedometer, tachometer, fuel, temperature).
The battery is ok, I've check all fuse. I've check voltage of connector to pin 1/2 & 17/18, I have 12V.
I can start motor and drive my car.
What else to do?
I'm disappointed, I have a persistent problem with my instrument.
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
After few week without drive my 987-1 (2005), I've now a problem with instrument.
All digital are ok (led, panel), I can read autonomy for example. Regulator is ok, electrical window, sunroof, etc.
Only the 4 analog is HS (speedometer, tachometer, fuel, temperature).
The battery is ok, I've check all fuse. I've check voltage of connector to pin 1/2 & 17/18, I have 12V.
I can start motor and drive my car.
What else to do?
#2
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Maybe this relates to your situation. From my recent post to our PCA-SDR forum:
Looking for others' experiences. Our 2017 Carrera is a very early build (Newport got the car in Feb 2016). We bought the car in Nov 2016, so it is now almost 6 years old. "Only" has 27,000 miles. Recently the instrument panel has been acting "funny." No lights unless I move to manual headlights (gauges working however); one pod still working. At Charlies Tech Session one of the gang mentioned that as the battery is failing, the car's computer(s) will start selectively turning off features. Our 2011 Carrera GTS "warned" me with a couple of slow turnovers (one at the top of the grade up I-15), then (we were driving to Vegas) just wouldn't start once in our son's garage. I've been to a couple of PCA-SDR events whereat someone who drove in just fine, got into the car to leave and - zippo - no start. One was at the Miramar Historics and Steve got the hood open (late model 911) but as I recall the car had to be flat-bedded out of the event. Today my local shop hooked up their very sophisticated and fancy battery tester. The tester said: "Replace Battery." I'll be at Fontana next week with Fast Toys and the last thing I want is to get stuck in Fontana with a no-start. 911 to Hoehn this Friday for a new battery - EVEN THOUGH ALMOST EVERYTHING STILL WORKS JUST FINE. So what say you? Has the "no warning" fail hit you with your Porsche??
Looking for others' experiences. Our 2017 Carrera is a very early build (Newport got the car in Feb 2016). We bought the car in Nov 2016, so it is now almost 6 years old. "Only" has 27,000 miles. Recently the instrument panel has been acting "funny." No lights unless I move to manual headlights (gauges working however); one pod still working. At Charlies Tech Session one of the gang mentioned that as the battery is failing, the car's computer(s) will start selectively turning off features. Our 2011 Carrera GTS "warned" me with a couple of slow turnovers (one at the top of the grade up I-15), then (we were driving to Vegas) just wouldn't start once in our son's garage. I've been to a couple of PCA-SDR events whereat someone who drove in just fine, got into the car to leave and - zippo - no start. One was at the Miramar Historics and Steve got the hood open (late model 911) but as I recall the car had to be flat-bedded out of the event. Today my local shop hooked up their very sophisticated and fancy battery tester. The tester said: "Replace Battery." I'll be at Fontana next week with Fast Toys and the last thing I want is to get stuck in Fontana with a no-start. 911 to Hoehn this Friday for a new battery - EVEN THOUGH ALMOST EVERYTHING STILL WORKS JUST FINE. So what say you? Has the "no warning" fail hit you with your Porsche??
#3
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks Old Guy for your answer.
I read information of fault battery into forum but when I check this, the tension is good. I drived more of 100 km and I have a same fault.
How check if my battery have all energy ? I have only multimeter.
I read information of fault battery into forum but when I check this, the tension is good. I drived more of 100 km and I have a same fault.
How check if my battery have all energy ? I have only multimeter.
#4
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Not Cayman specific, but...
To start, with the engine off the no-load value of an open circuit car battery should be at least 13.something Volt (preferably 13.8V).
Then at idle, a modern car should be 14.something Volt.
Your voltage may vary, but if your DMM shows anything less than these values, then replacing battery is a good idea.
Modern Porsche though also have a clear dependency on current availability too, and although V readings might be within range, sulfated plates and can impair current potential and cause wider issues.
<insert joke about looking at a Porsche battery the wrong way, and triggering other issues>
To start, with the engine off the no-load value of an open circuit car battery should be at least 13.something Volt (preferably 13.8V).
Then at idle, a modern car should be 14.something Volt.
Your voltage may vary, but if your DMM shows anything less than these values, then replacing battery is a good idea.
Modern Porsche though also have a clear dependency on current availability too, and although V readings might be within range, sulfated plates and can impair current potential and cause wider issues.
<insert joke about looking at a Porsche battery the wrong way, and triggering other issues>
#6
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
What battery did they install? I know it's an interstate but wondering which one? Thanks
Trending Topics
#8
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hello,
I changed battery by Varta F18 (85A - 800Ah) but I have got the same problem.
I read a post outside that say :
"After put car in contact with key, dash LCD's work fine, all warning lights work fine but NO needles work (no temperature, no fuel, no rpm, no kmh)
When i remove the 32 pins blue connector behind the dash and put i back, still keeping with contact ON, the needles work fine !!! Until i DONT put off the contact, all works 100%.
After i cut contact and put contact, same problem, NO needles function....
Reading autocom : fault "9101" = "power supply, not valid signal, permanent" "
I checked this procedure and cluster is good when motor run and I connect this after. I didn't have message "9101" (only once but no permanent).
Is a pb of recognition between cluster and motherboard ?
I changed battery by Varta F18 (85A - 800Ah) but I have got the same problem.
I read a post outside that say :
"After put car in contact with key, dash LCD's work fine, all warning lights work fine but NO needles work (no temperature, no fuel, no rpm, no kmh)
When i remove the 32 pins blue connector behind the dash and put i back, still keeping with contact ON, the needles work fine !!! Until i DONT put off the contact, all works 100%.
After i cut contact and put contact, same problem, NO needles function....
Reading autocom : fault "9101" = "power supply, not valid signal, permanent" "
I checked this procedure and cluster is good when motor run and I connect this after. I didn't have message "9101" (only once but no permanent).
Is a pb of recognition between cluster and motherboard ?
![Confused](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)