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I've finally figured out how to remove relay carrier 1. However, this looks nothing like the earlier 886 relays. Which ones are used for the convertible top?
Looks like relays 3 and 5 control the convertible top. They also look like inexpensive parts but I'm having difficulty finding the correct part number. On the Cayman, these show up as fuel pump relays but they otherwise look the same.
More progress! I swapped the two convertible relays with each other and now when I press the roof switch to close the roof, I hear an audible clicking coming from the relay. So it appears the other relay is burnt out.
I picked up a replacement relay and plugged it into slot 3. The dashboard then responded to the switch in both directions (so that's good). I wanted to further validate that the motor was receiving current, so I plugged it in and pushed the switch again. It ran for about 1/2 second then cut off. The dashboard now reads "convertible top not in limit position", the relays no longer click and the dashboard only reacts when the switch is pushed up (ie: opening the top).
It seems unlikely I could have burned out the relay with such a short period of the motor running so I think maybe the car figured out that the arms aren't in the right position and automatically turned it off. I hope so anyway.
Looks like I'll be waiting for those plastic ball joints to come in before proceeding.
I know I'm spending your money freely, but if you watched the long video I posted above and you witnessed the microswitch diagnosis and repair, you might just choose to replace it with a fresh switch?
Nah, the switch is fine. At this point, it appears that popping the ball joints on will likely resolve the issue. Those parts should be here in a couple more days.
The white plastic ball joints arrived. I replaced the old broken ones, taking care to align them to the exact position they were in before (I marked the prior position with blue painters tape before removing the old ones). Manually triggering the top motor moves the convertible roof up and down!
I had to remove the clamshell piston rods in order to reattach them. Now the time has come to reattach them and I have no idea how. I've used the motor to position the clamshell ***** (what are they called anyway?) as far to the rear as possible. I can manually close the clamshell to get the pistons about 1/2" away but this closes the clamshell so much that I can't get in there to pop the ball joints back together again.
Hmmm... so in studying the geometry of the transmission a little, it appears that the starting position (roof up) should correspond to the point of the V pointing directly up. Then when the roof is opened, the while ball joints descend, while the black ball joint ascends and opens the clamshell cover.
In my case, it appears that the transmission gear has gotten misaligned and the white ball joints are actually sitting above horizontal.
Edit: This was correct. I manually rotated the transmission until the clamshell balljoint was ascending up the rear. This got it close enough to reattach.
The good: I turned on the car and the roof closed properly!
The bad: The roof will not open. The dashboard reads "Opening convertible top" but nothing happens. No relay click, no motor, nothing. The windows work properly and they roll all of the way up now (they stopped a few inches short of the roof before).
Last edited by ot1138; 06-01-2021 at 09:23 PM.
Reason: Add'l information
I'd say take it to the dealer. Or, you may want to call them and see what the process is - my dealer said they don't do the work themselves and recommended a local shop that deals with tops and such. (My car had a situation where the passenger side doesn't tuck-into the C-pillar properly.) The guy there was VERY knowledgeable and experienced with the Boxsters, and he found the problem was not the rubber-band wearing out, but there was a broken arm and a missing pin in the "paddle" that is involved.
Bottom line, the indy shop (actually an auto upholstery shop) knew exactly what to look at and look for... you may run into the same thing.
If you're in the CT area, I'd recommend this shop for you as well - they're in Newington... called Redan Upholstery. Dan, in there, has been great to work with.
I've finally figured out how to remove relay carrier 1...
So what's the trick to getting this relay carrier out?
Looks like maybe you have to unbolt the fuse panel to create more room for the wire bundles to move out of the way?
I need to get access to the same two relays (and therefore the motor winding) so I can see what's shorted. Soon as I try and open the top, it blows the 30A fuse (E3). The motor doesn't even try to open the clamshell let alone the top. You just hear the fuse pop almost instantly. If you hold the top open switch, the message on the dash say's it's opening the top. Other rear control module things like the rear spoiler work OK.
Got it out. You just have to manhandle it a bit. It does help quite a lot to unbolt the main fuse panel first so the wire bundles can move out of the way easier.
05-28-2021, 05:48 PM
