Numeric Cables
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Racer
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 373
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From: Sechelt BC
Numeric Cables
My installation notes. '05 Boxster S
Removing the console is exactly as advertised, pull out the parts and screws as per the video. The hardest part was undoing the wire connector.
Remember that you will need to open the roof to the service position so set that up before you undo the electrical connector. If you plan to do this outside and it takes longer than a day, you will have to replace the console so you can close the roof again.
I did not disconnect the battery as I had to move the electric seats back and forth.
If you have the rear Bose speaker, it needs to come out backwards and I found that there is a little door in the side of the speaker that you can open to get access to the cable plug. Impossible to get it back together with this door closed and it's still difficult with it open.
I found that the shift boot was a bugger to get out, the pry tools worked (you might be able to use a putty knife with masking tape to protect the surfaces) but you really had to pry hard. I didn't break anything but it felt like the whole thing was going to break. Getting the shift **** off was also very difficult, it also worked as advertised but the **** has to be pulled so hard...don't whack your face with it.
Pulling off the old cables is easy, removing the old shifter lever is easy; make sure, if you are on ramps, to block the wheels as you will have to release the park brake handle to swap cables. The only issue here was the entire assembly will not be possible to relocate on the studs with the new cables installed unless the handle assembly is completely down in the released position. I could not get the old cable clamp back in as the new cables are too thick. It is also one of the mount nuts.
The third, very stiff cable in there is the battery cable.
Cut the rubber grommet with something sharp, my pocket knife worked. Also, the insulating hose can be cut very nicely on a table saw table - lay the hose in the groove cut in the table top and just run your knife straight down the hose. The groove holds it steady for a nice clean cut. Forget trying to cut a spiral, the hose is so flexible you can twist it into a spiral in place. I used a zip tie on both ends. Likewise, one zip tie for each branch of the grommet. Hard to get the grommet back on but persevere! A reminder, when installing the new cables, don't forget to thread them through the metal bit that secures the grommet...there, I just saved you from removing them again!
I also started installing the hose on the forward end of the cable so I could wrestle it right down to the back of the grommet. Most videos show it installed the other way. Put a few inches on the cable, install the zip tie then start the twisting. Then install all the rest of the hose before you finish twisting. I think the majority of the noise complaints about Numeric cables is because they run right next to the accessory belt and pulleys which are very busy! Make sure you are meticulous with the hose install here.
Ensure that the new cables have their adjusting (turnbuckles?) loose and equally spaced. You can install the front cables to the shifter and tighten down the cables in their clamp with the wrench you also bought (essential). You can put the plastic doodad on the ball and attach the cable to the shifter now. The left lever, I used a torx bit and a small Crescent wrench to tighten the screw that holds the left cable. Some use lock title here.
At this point, with the cables laying across the engine (route the left cable under the right cable) I bolted down the handbrake lever and closed the seat back compartment and put the engine cover back on. The only thing left to do in the car was reassemble the console (after adjusting the lever position and tightening the lock screws.
Attaching the left hand cable is easy, it goes to the right side of the transmission, remember? Make sure the ball extends and retracts further than the shifter lever by turning the fitting and using the plastic doodad, clip on the cable. You have already attached the cable in its bracket with the magic wrench, a bit of twisting is necessary. Don't forget to tighten down the locking nut on the adjuster!
The other side, the right cable at the front is another story. Removing the old cable from the transmission gives you a clue how difficult this side is to access. One video says to use channel locks to get the old one out but mine had been borrowed so I grabbed the next best tool, uttered some famous boat words and just yanked the old cable out. The new cable, being much stiffer, was very hard to get situated and threading your arms through the very convoluted access was difficult. Hold the cable with one hand as it tends to slip out as you tighten the nut. Difficult but doable. This is probably the most difficult part of the entire job and the magic wrench is essential. Numeric would make a lot more people happy if the wrench was just thrown in with every cable set, like an ikea wrench! I think this is impossible to complete without it.
Do the same procedure as the other side, ensuring the cable ball travels further forward and back, use the plastic doodad and tighten down the lock nuts (10 mm) on the adjusters.
Now go to the shifter and rotate the cable adjusters until the neutral lever is positioned where you want it. Mine is vertical. Tighten the lock nuts and you're done.
In the middle lever position the lever shortens the shift throw very nicely without being excessive. I even found that the slight "graunch" I got with the old cables going into 2nd some times, has gone.
No other surprises except the wire harness is difficult to get the connectors reattached. I used a bit of WD40 on the shift lever so I can get the shift ball off easier for when the Raceng ball shifter arrives.
I also ceramic coated my console while it was out.
Removing the console is exactly as advertised, pull out the parts and screws as per the video. The hardest part was undoing the wire connector.
Remember that you will need to open the roof to the service position so set that up before you undo the electrical connector. If you plan to do this outside and it takes longer than a day, you will have to replace the console so you can close the roof again.
I did not disconnect the battery as I had to move the electric seats back and forth.
If you have the rear Bose speaker, it needs to come out backwards and I found that there is a little door in the side of the speaker that you can open to get access to the cable plug. Impossible to get it back together with this door closed and it's still difficult with it open.
I found that the shift boot was a bugger to get out, the pry tools worked (you might be able to use a putty knife with masking tape to protect the surfaces) but you really had to pry hard. I didn't break anything but it felt like the whole thing was going to break. Getting the shift **** off was also very difficult, it also worked as advertised but the **** has to be pulled so hard...don't whack your face with it.
Pulling off the old cables is easy, removing the old shifter lever is easy; make sure, if you are on ramps, to block the wheels as you will have to release the park brake handle to swap cables. The only issue here was the entire assembly will not be possible to relocate on the studs with the new cables installed unless the handle assembly is completely down in the released position. I could not get the old cable clamp back in as the new cables are too thick. It is also one of the mount nuts.
The third, very stiff cable in there is the battery cable.
Cut the rubber grommet with something sharp, my pocket knife worked. Also, the insulating hose can be cut very nicely on a table saw table - lay the hose in the groove cut in the table top and just run your knife straight down the hose. The groove holds it steady for a nice clean cut. Forget trying to cut a spiral, the hose is so flexible you can twist it into a spiral in place. I used a zip tie on both ends. Likewise, one zip tie for each branch of the grommet. Hard to get the grommet back on but persevere! A reminder, when installing the new cables, don't forget to thread them through the metal bit that secures the grommet...there, I just saved you from removing them again!
I also started installing the hose on the forward end of the cable so I could wrestle it right down to the back of the grommet. Most videos show it installed the other way. Put a few inches on the cable, install the zip tie then start the twisting. Then install all the rest of the hose before you finish twisting. I think the majority of the noise complaints about Numeric cables is because they run right next to the accessory belt and pulleys which are very busy! Make sure you are meticulous with the hose install here.
Ensure that the new cables have their adjusting (turnbuckles?) loose and equally spaced. You can install the front cables to the shifter and tighten down the cables in their clamp with the wrench you also bought (essential). You can put the plastic doodad on the ball and attach the cable to the shifter now. The left lever, I used a torx bit and a small Crescent wrench to tighten the screw that holds the left cable. Some use lock title here.
At this point, with the cables laying across the engine (route the left cable under the right cable) I bolted down the handbrake lever and closed the seat back compartment and put the engine cover back on. The only thing left to do in the car was reassemble the console (after adjusting the lever position and tightening the lock screws.
Attaching the left hand cable is easy, it goes to the right side of the transmission, remember? Make sure the ball extends and retracts further than the shifter lever by turning the fitting and using the plastic doodad, clip on the cable. You have already attached the cable in its bracket with the magic wrench, a bit of twisting is necessary. Don't forget to tighten down the locking nut on the adjuster!
The other side, the right cable at the front is another story. Removing the old cable from the transmission gives you a clue how difficult this side is to access. One video says to use channel locks to get the old one out but mine had been borrowed so I grabbed the next best tool, uttered some famous boat words and just yanked the old cable out. The new cable, being much stiffer, was very hard to get situated and threading your arms through the very convoluted access was difficult. Hold the cable with one hand as it tends to slip out as you tighten the nut. Difficult but doable. This is probably the most difficult part of the entire job and the magic wrench is essential. Numeric would make a lot more people happy if the wrench was just thrown in with every cable set, like an ikea wrench! I think this is impossible to complete without it.
Do the same procedure as the other side, ensuring the cable ball travels further forward and back, use the plastic doodad and tighten down the lock nuts (10 mm) on the adjusters.
Now go to the shifter and rotate the cable adjusters until the neutral lever is positioned where you want it. Mine is vertical. Tighten the lock nuts and you're done.
In the middle lever position the lever shortens the shift throw very nicely without being excessive. I even found that the slight "graunch" I got with the old cables going into 2nd some times, has gone.
No other surprises except the wire harness is difficult to get the connectors reattached. I used a bit of WD40 on the shift lever so I can get the shift ball off easier for when the Raceng ball shifter arrives.
I also ceramic coated my console while it was out.