ajw45

Do this. Change to SRF and run any pad you want. Especially if you don't flush the fluid yourself, SRF lasts forever so less shop visits and labor hours changing old fluid. SRF looks and tests like it just came out of the can even after a whole season of use.

white924s

Based on your experience and usage, I would recommend just getting stock pads and flushing the fluid with stock fluid. I have done 30+ HPDE days in my 981, mostly on stock pads, and the OEM pads performed well (no noticeable fade, consistent braking, etc. over the day). I generally get ~6 days per set of front pads.

There are some aftermarket options out there, but most (if not all) will create more noise on the street (in exchange for offering superior stopping power). If you are tracking more frequently and/or running more aggressive tires, then you might want to look into options like Pagid, but for a car that is mainly street driven and that has street tires, the OEM pads will offer plenty of performance without the live-ability compromises that race pads require.

Kitc2246

Welcome to the club. It is addictive. Check the frequency of brake fluid change requirements on your club tech form. PCA Potomac allows 90 days on OEM brake fluid and 180 days on racing brake fluid. I've had good luck with ATE 200. As others have stated OEM pads should be good as a beginner, but unless you have really new pads take a spare set for the front to the track. Many options on after market track pads, but many if not most squeak on the street. You will have to remove the calipers to change the fronts. If needed there will be plenty of help at the track. The rears can be replaced without removing the pads and last longer. Your 4S are plenty of tire and will only wish for more grip is the S's. Watch the tire wear on the left front outer edge. Swapping sides on the fronts is common since most tracks are clockwise and harder on the left front. Adding negative camber to the front can save outer tire edge wear, but too much can wear out the inside. I have -1.8. but that will come later. Recommend you remove and tie back your brake sensors. Driving on the track can get the rotors hot enough to melt the sensors. Get some aluminum duct tape, not duck tape, and tape over your wheel weights since the brake heat can make them loose.. Lots of accessories needed for the track, some nice, some necessary. A torque wrench, deep dish socket with short extension and good tire pressure gauge are necessary. If you haven't already remove the wheel locks and replace with a regular lug/ A light weight aluminum jack is really needed if you are going to change your own brake pads. I don't take mine to the track. A balaclava (head scarf), driving gloves, driving shoes(thin sole walking shoes), canopy to get out of the sun (rain), tarps for the ground, a reclining chair, etc. Don't forget track insurance: Grundy and Lockton are the most common. I would NOT ask you current insurance company if you are covered at the track. I'm in my third year with 20+ track days and really enjoy. Working on upgrading to a 2016 Boxster S.

09 Boxster PDK w/Sport/Sport+

schell

How was the first track day

tneocli

Castrol SRF fluid and ferodo or pagid pads