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My CS on Apex VS5-RS, 18x9 +46, 18x10+36
Yokohama A052, 245/40 275/40
Lowered on PSS9s
0 Rub
@jpegone Do you have any other aftermarket suspension parts? What is your alignment like?
I ordered my wheels built as 19x9+ 48 and 19x10 +36 largely based on the Apex wheel specs but my rears especially aren't as flush. I suspect it's the negative camber I run but I do wish they looked more like yours.
@jpegone Do you have any other aftermarket suspension parts? What is your alignment like?
I ordered my wheels built as 19x9+ 48 and 19x10 +36 largely based on the Apex wheel specs but my rears especially aren't as flush. I suspect it's the negative camber I run but I do wish they looked more like yours.
@&Stimpy Not in the rear no - if I remember correctly we only got about -2 out of the rears. The front I have SPC Lowers. That’s very interesting that yours aren’t as flush with the same width and offset, just 19s instead, unless it’s potentially your tire size making them look sunk?
I run the 40 walls because they seem to fit the car better, and the beefy sidewall might help them appear more flush.
I plan on adding more rear camber next year, so we’ll have to see how they look after that…
@&Stimpy Not in the rear no - if I remember correctly we only got about -2 out of the rears. The front I have SPC Lowers. That’s very interesting that yours aren’t as flush with the same width and offset, just 19s instead, unless it’s potentially your tire size making them look sunk?
I run the 40 walls because they seem to fit the car better, and the beefy sidewall might help them appear more flush.
I plan on adding more rear camber next year, so we’ll have to see how they look after that…
Hmmm. I'm also at -2 degrees in the rear. 275/35/19. I measured the wheels too so I know they are right at +36. Maybe it's just the fact that I am not as low as you are.
Hmmm. I'm also at -2 degrees in the rear. 275/35/19. I measured the wheels too so I know they are right at +36. Maybe it's just the fact that I am not as low as you are.
Interesring, the low probably does help. I will say they aren’t totally perfectly flush on mine either though, and I’m now on a 275/35 (Spec Car Hankook Slick takeoff) and they look a little more sunken now.
I definitely like the look of the fat 40 sidewall more, and the A052 definitely look on the meatier side of the ones I’ve ran too.
Interesring, the low probably does help. I will say they aren’t totally perfectly flush on mine either though, and I’m now on a 275/35 (Spec Car Hankook Slick takeoff) and they look a little more sunken now.
I definitely like the look of the fat 40 sidewall more, and the A052 definitely look on the meatier side of the ones I’ve ran too.
Must be a combination of the low and the tire because my rears do look more like yours in that photo.
The fronts on yours are more flush for sure. That makes sense with your control arms and being +46 instead of +48. I think the control arms play the biggest factor. As I understand those lower control arms give you camber by pushing the bottom of the wheel out as opposed to my camber is adjusted by the top hat of the coilovers pulling the top of the wheel inward. My last alignment had the front at -2.4* of camber.
Must be a combination of the low and the tire because my rears do look more like yours in that photo.
The fronts on yours are more flush for sure. That makes sense with your control arms and being +46 instead of +48. I think the control arms play the biggest factor. As I understand those lower control arms give you camber by pushing the bottom of the wheel out as opposed to my camber is adjusted by the top hat of the coilovers pulling the top of the wheel inward. My last alignment had the front at -2.4* of camber.
You are correct about how GT3 style or split lower control arms add camber. By pushing the bottom of the wheel further out and the fact that we are strut suspension front and rear, the top of the wheel/tire assembly moves slightly out as well. This is because the wheel upright/shock/wheel are all swinging out, essentially hinged at the top mount. Meaning the more we shim a lower arm, the closer the top of the tire gets to the fender. The tire model also plays a huge part in this conversation. Comparing my car to Jpegone's, his A052 in the same 245/40-18 front size as my Conti Extremecontact sport 02, his front tire has a .7" wider tread width. Splitting that in half since the width is shared inboard and outboard, his tread block would be 8.89mm closer to the fender than mine, with everything else being equal (alignment, top mount location, ride height, etc).
Picture of my car to stay on thread topic as well
Apex EC-7RS 18x9"ET46 and 18x10"ET36 w/ Continental Sport 02 245/40-18 and 275/40-18
Stock R shocks and springs with GT3 style lower arms -2.5° front and -2° rear camber with the OEM top mounts moved as far inboard as possible on the little top adjustment we do have.
