Help Troubleshoot and Diagnose Engine Ticking - '06 987.1 CS
#5
Generally a noise that goes away every time the car warms up isn't spark plugs, but is something related to the DME warmup cycle.
When the car warms up and Variocam goes back to the small lift cam and the noise goes away (or almost all away),
that's a sign that it was something in the Variocam solenoid/actuator, or a lifter, that changed once the warmup cycle was over.
To be sure, you need the PIWIS (at a dealer or specialty shop) to diagnose if there is an abnormality in the Variocam hydraulic solenoid/actuator.
When the car warms up and Variocam goes back to the small lift cam and the noise goes away (or almost all away),
that's a sign that it was something in the Variocam solenoid/actuator, or a lifter, that changed once the warmup cycle was over.
To be sure, you need the PIWIS (at a dealer or specialty shop) to diagnose if there is an abnormality in the Variocam hydraulic solenoid/actuator.
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#8
Advanced
I am new to Porsches so I would rely on other posts over my own, but I would just add that a faulty DI injector can be loud. The injectors on my 3 series are loudest when cold and then quiet down quite a bit when warm.
#9
I would call the 100 mi. shop and ask if they have PIWIS since you pretty much need the PIWIS to diagnose most Porsche electro-mechanical issues.
The durametric will give you cam angle/lift etc. but you're guessing as far as tolerances of where they're supposed to be at a given temperature etc.
The loud tick that goes to a quiet tick upon warming is a characteristic of a failing Variocam solenoid/actuator or lifter. The angle solenoid is separate from the lift solenoid.
To the poster above, the '06 isn't DFI and M97 injectors aren't the issue.
I see your edit now OP. With all due respect, who was giving the advice on Google?
My point is, and you'll find this here unfortunately, there is no shortage of people offering opinions on forums, you have to consider that.
There is a history of issues with the Variocam solenoid/actuator and lifters on M97's that's a fact.
The beginning of the noise can happen before a complete failure of a Variocam solenoid/actuator ie. no CEL along with no CEL for a lifter.
The durametric will give you cam angle/lift etc. but you're guessing as far as tolerances of where they're supposed to be at a given temperature etc.
The loud tick that goes to a quiet tick upon warming is a characteristic of a failing Variocam solenoid/actuator or lifter. The angle solenoid is separate from the lift solenoid.
To the poster above, the '06 isn't DFI and M97 injectors aren't the issue.
I see your edit now OP. With all due respect, who was giving the advice on Google?
My point is, and you'll find this here unfortunately, there is no shortage of people offering opinions on forums, you have to consider that.
There is a history of issues with the Variocam solenoid/actuator and lifters on M97's that's a fact.
The beginning of the noise can happen before a complete failure of a Variocam solenoid/actuator ie. no CEL along with no CEL for a lifter.
Last edited by A432; 07-26-2017 at 06:11 PM.
#10
Advanced
#11
Instructor
I'm no expert, but that does sound like something in the valve train to me.
The misfires did not look that bad, especially once warmed up. As I recall, the misfires are deduced from crankshaft rotation speed - any anomalies are considered misfires. If you feel a little roughness as the car is warming up, you'll likely see some misfires, but I think that is normal, or at least it is the same as my car (07 Cayman). It takes large amounts of "misfires" to create a CEL.
The misfires did not look that bad, especially once warmed up. As I recall, the misfires are deduced from crankshaft rotation speed - any anomalies are considered misfires. If you feel a little roughness as the car is warming up, you'll likely see some misfires, but I think that is normal, or at least it is the same as my car (07 Cayman). It takes large amounts of "misfires" to create a CEL.
#13
I'd try the plugs, hell you can try simply returning the ones in it to torque first. If lady luck smiles upon you then the noise goes away and the extra effort becomes unnecessary. That noise coupled with loose spark plugs is a common occurrence it's worth a shot, I ended that same cheap car noise in one afternoon of goofing around on my 986.
PS I thought doing the plugs was going to be a fool's errand too, when it worked I was totally elated.
PS I thought doing the plugs was going to be a fool's errand too, when it worked I was totally elated.
#15
Closest shop at 100 miles doesn't have a PIWIS, just a Durametric Pro. I fear that I'm on my own here.
Does it make sense to try and manually engage the solenoids on both banks and listen for actuation? I'm an electrical engineer by profession and have some tools to help safely engage solenoids.
As far as Google, I was just reading some of the forum threads that popped up regarding Variocam issues. Nothing concrete, and I understand the value of opinions.
Does it make sense to try and manually engage the solenoids on both banks and listen for actuation? I'm an electrical engineer by profession and have some tools to help safely engage solenoids.
As far as Google, I was just reading some of the forum threads that popped up regarding Variocam issues. Nothing concrete, and I understand the value of opinions.
If you want to try to save the cost of doing new solenoids first, you could swap the right and left bank solenoids and see if the noise switches banks.
If it doesn't change, it's a lifter. You may need to get new solenoid covers to make sure they seal if you're not changing to new solenoids. They're about $10 each at RM European (Porsche factory part)
You always replace the covers when installing new solenoids.