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Anyone use this as an alternative to an oxyacetylene torch? Burns at 4,500 degrees rather than 5,000 of oxyacetylene, but that seems hot enough for most uses. At least for these bolts anyway.
When you say 13mm or 12mm, that is the head size. The bolts are spec'd by thread size and you want M8x30mm.
You can get plain SS ones or the factory ones are 90007536502 (bolt) 90091000303 (nut)
Thanks for that! Yeah I was (confusingly, I admit) referring to the head size.
I didn't realize there was a Porsche-specced bolt for this application. I was thinking about trying to find the most corrosion-resistant bolt possible (was considering grade 8 stainless), but I think I'm just going to go with the Porsche parts. I'm not sure corrosion resistance matters quite as much now given that the studs are gone.
In case it helps anyone else, there seems to be a difference in p/n for the nut (but not the bolt?) between 987.1 and 987.2. I'm not sure why that would make any difference, though.
Last edited by losblancos; 03-26-2022 at 01:23 AM.
Anyone use this as an alternative to an oxyacetylene torch? Burns at 4,500 degrees rather than 5,000 of oxyacetylene, but that seems hot enough for most uses. At least for these bolts anyway.
That might be worth a shot, with the obvious caveats re fire safety.
I tried using a propane torch on both my 16-year-old BMW and 15-year-old 987 and (unsurprisingly) got nowhere. In the end I decided it wasn't worth the trouble and just took them both to an exhaust shop.
Last edited by losblancos; 03-26-2022 at 01:21 AM.
MAP gas alone is pretty good. Many states won’t sell the kit to combine oxygen.
I wouldn’t use another tapered bolt like the Porsche one. The hole is likely to be imperfect after removal, and those bolts are very precise. I use heat to help but an air chisel to cut the flange off and then to push the bolt out after cutting the threaded end off and drilling it out some from the back using Cobalt bits. But I have some good tools. The best tool would be an electric spot heater to do the heat work. Oxy heat to a small spot.
I use Grade 8 SS bolts and the secret sauce of Nordlock washers with anti-seize paste.
i recommend keeping the stock mufflers and replacing the first half with open SS headers if you can get by your state inspection that way. All the cats are in the headers on the 987.2 so the muffler isn’t hurting you and actually sounds good. I had to go to an ECU upgrade to avoid check engine but my car now needs a yearly waiver, unable to perform its engine ready checks. It sounds amazing though!
Originally Posted by losblancos
That might be worth a shot, with the obvious caveats re fire safety.
I tried using a propane torch on both my 16-year-old BMW and 15-year-old 987 and (unsurprisingly) got nowhere. In the end I decided it wasn't worth the trouble and just took them both to an exhaust shop.
With all due respect, I've simply had a very different experience with the bolts. I've done 7 of these now (987.2) and was able to punch all of them out and zero damage to the bolt holes.
I also dyno tested the stock muffler vs. 3 different cat backs and they all were a 6-7hp. improvement.
03-25-2022, 05:12 PM
