Changed my plugs...
#1
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I took some time this weekend to change the air filter, oil, and spark plugs. Definitely feels good that I did it myself. Did the serpentine belt a few weeks ago. At 49k miles now. I have no records on the car other than my last oil change and some CPO repairs (radio/hvac unit replacement) so I don't know if these are the original plugs. It's CPOd until December 2014 so now that I've done this maintenance, I'm pretty comfortable with the car right now.
Question, how do these old plugs look? Why do the plugs on the right (left bank) look different than the ones on the left? I didn't see any oil in in the spark plug sleeves. Coil packs looked great. No cracks.
Question, how do these old plugs look? Why do the plugs on the right (left bank) look different than the ones on the left? I didn't see any oil in in the spark plug sleeves. Coil packs looked great. No cracks.
#2
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Since the car's history and servicing is unknown to you who knows who did what to the plugs to possibly account for the difference at the threads?
The tips look ok and about the same and that's what's important.
The tips look ok and about the same and that's what's important.
#5
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I didn't have a lift. Just jacked up the left side, replaced those, and then moved to the right side. It wasn't really difficult removing anything, but you should have a certain number of extensions and a pivoting joint (see attached pictures) to remove the plugs themselves. Also, rather than using a torx bit on a rachet to remove the two screws holding each spark plug connector, I used an allen head wrench. There wasn't enough room to use a full rachet.
#7
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My brother has an old 987 Boxster. Spark plug changing back then (2000) was scheduled every 30K. First, can someone confirm that's still true for new Caymans?
At 30K, my brother didn't want to ever have to change them again--he said it was a real pain and it took him several hours. So, he did NOT use OEM plugs, switching instead to 100,000 mile iridium plugs. He hit them with anti-seize compound (always a good idea), put 'em in, and he says they've been fine ever since.
His son, who races, warns these plugs may sacrifice performance--something my brother doesn't perceive in his old 208 hp Boxster. Modern automotive engineering texts warn that engines with a coil for each cylinder do indeed need special plugs. Finally, as Porsche seems to be working to gain bragging rights on how little maintenance their new cars require, I have to think there might be a reason they use the plugs that they do, despite only being expected to last 30K (assuming that's still true in 981 Caymans).
Any spark plug experts out there to shed some light on these issues? Thanks in advance for a reply.
At 30K, my brother didn't want to ever have to change them again--he said it was a real pain and it took him several hours. So, he did NOT use OEM plugs, switching instead to 100,000 mile iridium plugs. He hit them with anti-seize compound (always a good idea), put 'em in, and he says they've been fine ever since.
His son, who races, warns these plugs may sacrifice performance--something my brother doesn't perceive in his old 208 hp Boxster. Modern automotive engineering texts warn that engines with a coil for each cylinder do indeed need special plugs. Finally, as Porsche seems to be working to gain bragging rights on how little maintenance their new cars require, I have to think there might be a reason they use the plugs that they do, despite only being expected to last 30K (assuming that's still true in 981 Caymans).
Any spark plug experts out there to shed some light on these issues? Thanks in advance for a reply.
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#8
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My brother has an old 987 Boxster. Spark plug changing back then (2000) was scheduled every 30K. First, can someone confirm that's still true for new Caymans?
At 30K, my brother didn't want to ever have to change them again--he said it was a real pain and it took him several hours. So, he did NOT use OEM plugs, switching instead to 100,000 mile iridium plugs. He hit them with anti-seize compound (always a good idea), put 'em in, and he says they've been fine ever since.
His son, who races, warns these plugs may sacrifice performance--something my brother doesn't perceive in his old 208 hp Boxster. Modern automotive engineering texts warn that engines with a coil for each cylinder do indeed need special plugs. Finally, as Porsche seems to be working to gain bragging rights on how little maintenance their new cars require, I have to think there might be a reason they use the plugs that they do, despite only being expected to last 30K (assuming that's still true in 981 Caymans).
Any spark plug experts out there to shed some light on these issues? Thanks in advance for a reply.
At 30K, my brother didn't want to ever have to change them again--he said it was a real pain and it took him several hours. So, he did NOT use OEM plugs, switching instead to 100,000 mile iridium plugs. He hit them with anti-seize compound (always a good idea), put 'em in, and he says they've been fine ever since.
His son, who races, warns these plugs may sacrifice performance--something my brother doesn't perceive in his old 208 hp Boxster. Modern automotive engineering texts warn that engines with a coil for each cylinder do indeed need special plugs. Finally, as Porsche seems to be working to gain bragging rights on how little maintenance their new cars require, I have to think there might be a reason they use the plugs that they do, despite only being expected to last 30K (assuming that's still true in 981 Caymans).
Any spark plug experts out there to shed some light on these issues? Thanks in advance for a reply.
I do not know what the plug change interval is for newer model Boxsters or Caymans. There is a change schedule based on miles, to be sure, but there is one also based on time. Whichever one comes first triggers a plug change.
The Boxster plugs have an extended tip to run hot and clean at low engine speeds and loads and to run cooler at higher engine speeds/loads. The tip is exposed to the incoming air and is thus cooled.
One sacrifices more than performance with the wrong plug choice. (I came across a post by a Cayman owner who had switched to some other brand of plug -- the cross reference chart indicated this was the "right" plug -- and the engine was misbehaving so bad he switched back to a plug specifically for the engine.)
Never use anti-seize on a plug. The new plugs, at least those for Porsches, come with a special thread coating/plating/finish that is designed to prevent thread galling yet allow the plug and head threads to conduct heat away from the plug to the head. Anything between these threads interferes with that. Also, the gap allows for plug movement which can cause the plug to loosen over time. It can also cause the anti-seize to migrate away which allows room for combustion chamber gases to get in there which results in corrosion among other things.
Last but not least the anti-seize enters the combustion chamber and then exits via the exhaust and anti-seize is poison to O2 sensors.
#9
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MACSTER: Thank you for your help!
First, of course as you say, a 2000 Boxster is a 986--my mistake.
The service dept of my dealer is closed (Saturday) but while I'll check on Monday, I have to guess that if by 2002 Boxster plug changes were already up to 60K intervals, I suspect the 30K interval change is probably long gone on Caymans as well. (Confirmation, anyone?)
Also thanks for the info about threads being coated on OEM Porsche plugs, and the consequences of using anti-seize (and the lack of need).
In regard to "Never use anti-seize on a plug," I'm guessing that makes you younger than I am. In the old days the trade off for people who put few miles on per year (and would therefore not be changing plugs for years on end) cut the other way. Indeed without anti-seize in the old days, for certain model cars (I recall one Alfa in particular), not using it sometimes caused real headaches. In the 1960s, I apprenticed with a mechanic who everyone respected and who warned us to ask about how many miles per year the owner was putting on, saying that if the plugs were to be in for many years, we needed to use anti-seize despite any potential downside in doing so. That ancient (and now apparently irrelevant) history aside, your info is most helpful. Thanks again.
First, of course as you say, a 2000 Boxster is a 986--my mistake.
The service dept of my dealer is closed (Saturday) but while I'll check on Monday, I have to guess that if by 2002 Boxster plug changes were already up to 60K intervals, I suspect the 30K interval change is probably long gone on Caymans as well. (Confirmation, anyone?)
Also thanks for the info about threads being coated on OEM Porsche plugs, and the consequences of using anti-seize (and the lack of need).
In regard to "Never use anti-seize on a plug," I'm guessing that makes you younger than I am. In the old days the trade off for people who put few miles on per year (and would therefore not be changing plugs for years on end) cut the other way. Indeed without anti-seize in the old days, for certain model cars (I recall one Alfa in particular), not using it sometimes caused real headaches. In the 1960s, I apprenticed with a mechanic who everyone respected and who warned us to ask about how many miles per year the owner was putting on, saying that if the plugs were to be in for many years, we needed to use anti-seize despite any potential downside in doing so. That ancient (and now apparently irrelevant) history aside, your info is most helpful. Thanks again.
#10
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I believe the recommended 987 plug change interval is 4 years, and I'm certain this is related to the potential for the plugs to seize in the head.
I'm 4 years overdue to change mine even tho I've got only 22K on the car ('06).
Guess I better tackle this task soon.
I'm 4 years overdue to change mine even tho I've got only 22K on the car ('06).
Guess I better tackle this task soon.
#12
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Macster said the same about not using an anti-seize compound. If the plug threads are already coated with something preventing seizing you wouldn't think Porsche would anticipate a problem in waiting way longer than 4 years, assuming what they use is anywhere near as effective as anti-seize stuff.
Has anyone out there changed plugs over a significantly longer interval than the recommended 4 years? If so, how long was it, and was there really a problem in unscrewing the plugs? Sure seems like that shouldn't happen with the special coating, but your answer will trump my guess. Thanks.
#13
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Here's what the dealer's service dep't says:
Porsche calls for new plugs @ 40K or 4 years. He confirms not to use anti-seize compound on the threads in part because what Porsche coats the threads with already serves that function. When I asked, given that Porsche already has the threads coated so as not to seize, has he ever seen plugs seen in "garage queens" (very low mileage cars that go WAY more than 4 years before hitting 40K on the odometer).
His answer: Never
Bottom line for me is I'm not replacing the plugs @ 4 years--a time when I'm guessing I'll have less than 12K on the car.
Porsche calls for new plugs @ 40K or 4 years. He confirms not to use anti-seize compound on the threads in part because what Porsche coats the threads with already serves that function. When I asked, given that Porsche already has the threads coated so as not to seize, has he ever seen plugs seen in "garage queens" (very low mileage cars that go WAY more than 4 years before hitting 40K on the odometer).
His answer: Never
Bottom line for me is I'm not replacing the plugs @ 4 years--a time when I'm guessing I'll have less than 12K on the car.