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Many have said that if you replace the original battery with the same size and capacity battery, you don't need to code it to the car, but that may not be correct.
Last year I replaced the original Porsche battery on my 2014 S and since it was the same size and Ah battery and also AMG I did not code it to the car.
Outside of the first two days after replacement, I did not have any issues with the new battery. However, I noticed a few things.
The original Porsche battery always showed about 13.8 volts while driving the car in normal mode. Jumped to about 14.7 when in Sports mode.
The replacement since day one always showed 14.7 no matter what and during the colder months/day even as high as 15.1 volts.
The last few days the car started complaining about low voltage when I turned the key to the ON position within 5 seconds even though the battery seems to be okay and fully charged, etc.
And since it also bothered me that the volt always shows as 14.7 when driving, I decided to code the battery to the car even though the battery it is the same specs but not a Porsche battery.
Since I coded the battery yesterday, I no longer get the low voltage alerts. The voltage showing up on the dash also started correctly showing 13.8v when driving normally and jumps up to 14.7v when in sports mode.
So maybe there really isn't a need to code the batter if the battery is the same, but it's best to do it if you can just in case it puts extra load on the alternator and replacing it probably isn't cheap.
FWIW, I upgraded to an H8 Group Size AGM battery just cuz the original six year old H6 48PLT sounded tired on a couple of starts.
The actual swap took less than 3 minutes (after some prep and standing in the frunk for the swap).
Didn't do any coding/recoding in the PCM. No alerts no problems.
Periodically I put the new AGM on a Noco Genius5 battery tender-conditioner as a maintenance step.
All is well.
When did you change the battery? Mine was okay for a good 8 months or so.
What is your slow driving and or idling voltage show?
Originally Posted by CaymanCarver
FWIW, I upgraded to an H8 Group Size AGM battery just cuz the original six year old H6 48PLT sounded tired on a couple of starts.
The actual swap took less than 3 minutes (after some prep and standing in the frunk for the swap).
Didn't do any coding/recoding in the PCM. No alerts no problems.
Periodically I put the new AGM on a Noco Genius5 battery tender-conditioner as a maintenance step.
All is well.
After changing the battery are there many things to reset?
I was thinking that utilizing the emergency trunk release connector in the fuse box to connect to a temporary 12 volt source would prevent the loss of settings while the battery is changed out. Would this work?
After changing the battery are there many things to reset?
I was thinking that utilizing the emergency trunk release connector in the fuse box to connect to a temporary 12 volt source would prevent the loss of settings while the battery is changed out. Would this work?
I'm guessing no because the circuit would be broken with the battery terminals disconnected.
EDIT: Hmm, maybe that would work. The 12 V source would essentially be in parallel with the battery (right?), so it seems like the circuit would be closed.
I didn't have to reset anything at all after changing the battery.. And no issues with the new battery for 8 months or so, but that voltage always showed too high for me while the car was running. After coding the battery to the car, all looks good now.
Originally Posted by Thacker
After changing the battery are there many things to reset?
I was thinking that utilizing the emergency trunk release connector in the fuse box to connect to a temporary 12 volt source would prevent the loss of settings while the battery is changed out. Would this work?
My 2013 Boxster S has an H7 Interstate AGM which is on a CTEK during the Winter and prolonged absents. It charges at 14,8 when I first drive the car and takes a couple of hours before it drops back into the 13s. I theory my shop coded the battery but without a tool no way the verify. I have watched for years the "coding debate".
So your car is doing what it is supposed to do. Mine wasn't until I coded the battery and it started to have issues after 8 months.
Originally Posted by Kitc2246
My 2013 Boxster S has an H7 Interstate AGM which is on a CTEK during the Winter and prolonged absents. It charges at 14,8 when I first drive the car and takes a couple of hours before it drops back into the 13s. I theory my shop coded the battery but without a tool no way the verify. I have watched for years the "coding debate".
You will need a scanner/tool to code it. Some Foxwell scanners work. I tried using TOPDON TopScan OBD2 Scanner first. I didn't really work. The tool did say it worked but nothing really changed in the way the voltage displayed and the 'low voltage' alert didn't go way.
Then I tried using PIWIS 3 and that did the trick.
Originally Posted by AdamIsAdam
About to change my original battery from 2015. Got link to how I go about coding it? I plan to buy an OEM battery. Mine is 70 Ah
Cheapest option is Icarsoft V2 for coding. Procedure can be found on YouTube and is fairly simple. If new battery doesn't have info needed for use same serial & part number from original battery. Just update type "AGM and Ah" as this is what tells the car how to charge properly.
05-08-2024, 10:47 AM
Revisiting the need to code a new battery.
