mtregan

Bought a 2014 base with 88,000 miles. Only had it a couple of weeks of far. Weather has been iffy, New England area, so haven't been driving it much. Few rides i've had, everything seems to be working well. Primarily will track it and occasional use in the summer. I'm at the novice level in DE so probably not pushing the car as hard as the upper levels. What maintenance should I have taken care of before I head to the track. Don't have any service history on the vehicle.

I've replaced the engine air filters and cabin filter already.

Will have the Indy do next month:
Change oil
Flush brake fluid
Change brake pads (if needed)
Replace tires (rears are pretty worn)

I've been reading through the threads. Not sure if I need to replace the spark plugs or change the serpentine belt or the PDK fluids now.

Kitc2246

Welcome to the slippery slope. Once infected its treatable, but not curable.

The short answer first. First sign up for DE events that provide instructors. If you have a local PCA chapter first, NASA, SCCA, etc. Your are already late for registration. Most novice events already have a waiting list. See if there are any one day track orientation events with instructor. Again, you are late. Find your nearest Cars and Coffee for free advice. An autocross first would be helpful, but not required.

Brake flush with at least Motul 660 or equivalent
Very near new OEM pads but recommend at least Ferodo DS2500s or equivalent. You will eventually need a true track pad. I carry either a spare new set or a set that will pass tech (equal to or greater than backing plate)
Tires with decent tread not older than 5 years. Michelin PS4S are the most popular, but not true track tires.
A torque wrench from Harbor Freight with a short extension and lug socket. Torque is 118 ftlbs.
A good analog tire gauge with bleeder button.
Inspect rotors for cracks (5-6mm) from the drill holes. Measure thickness. Min is stamped on the rotor. 2mm wear max allowed
I would try and get at least a free alignment check. If you need an alignment get the max front negative camber from factory parts
If changed annually no need for a special oil change
If a PDK and diff fluid never changed consider PDK fluid and diff fluid. No PDK filter change. See the Jeff Richardson YouTubes on Porsche 981 maintenance. Use a independent shop that does Porsche
Serpentine belt if original. You can inspect from underneath on a rack without removing the access panel behind the seats.
Your mileage is pretty high, so a thorough suspension check for worn parts, wheel bearings, etc. Many PCA chapters provide free inspections the week before but limited time to make repairs..
If you don't have find an indy mechanic that does Porsche. If you have local Porsche club check their website for Tech inspection locations.
Porsche recommends spark plugs every four years regardless of mileage to prevent seizing. It is a difficult DIY and $$$.

Longer version

Annual oil change should be sufficient for a few DEs.

If PDK fluid has never been changed recommend a change. Just the PDK and diff fluids. No need to do the very coarse mesh PDK filter.

A brake fluid flush is number one IMO. A brake fade is a firm pedal but decreased stopping when the pads are too hot, a soft pedal or worse to the floor is boiled fluid. Buy a cheap brake fluid moisture tester from Amazon. I use Motul 660. You should be OK with Motul 600.
How many DD and street miles on average? OEM brake pads will eventually get too hot and wear out quickly. Probably OK as a novice for your first few DEs. I DE 5-6 times a year with a 2013 Boxster S. I run Pagid RSL29s (yellows) on Sebro slotted rotors from FCPEuro with their Lifetime warranty. Some people recommend Ferodo D2500s, but they are not true track pads. I recommend at least Ferodo DS1.11s or equivalent. I use the track pads year round. If properly bedded they seldom squeak.

A good set of OEM tires should be OK for your first DE. Michelin PS4S are very popular and can be easily DEed, however if you regularly track a dedicated set of wheels and tires will be needed.
You will wear the left edge of the left front. Stock suspension will normally give -0.8 to -1,0 camber. -2.5 to -3.0 is a typical track negative camber to save the left front. Adjustable LCAs or camber plates will be needed to get a true track alignment. I do no swap my track wheels and tires, 18s with Hanook RS4s during the season. Put the 20s and PZeroes back on for the Winter.

I run Motul 660. Again IMO not need to pay for SRF. The Motul 660 dry temp is higher than SRF. Most PCA chapters require new DOT4 every 3 months and 6 months for racing fluid so no need for the higher SRF wet temp.

You will have to closely monitor the heat stress cracks in your drilled rotors. Anything longer than 5-6 mm, joined or to the edge needs to be replaced. As already stated I run Sebro slotted. The slotted rotors IMO add more heat to the brake fluid so

Expect to see high oil temps. 260-280 on a warm day. GT4s see 280 all the time. If you continue you will probably want the third radiator for engine and PDK cooling.

The first few sessions can be overwhelming for some. It is not a race, smooth and consistent. Listen to your instructor. Learn the vocabulary: early and late apex, threshold braking, trail braking. YouTube has hundreds of track and DE events. Find your track and watch. Socialize, you are all there for the same reason. Be Safe, have fun.

Don't forget your prep. Helmet, comfortable shoes with thin soles. long sleeve cotton shirt and pants. I have three balaclavas from Amazon. Saves the helmet from sweat. A cooler with lots of water and snacks. I switched to cold packs during COVID when we could not get ice at the track. Chair. A big tote will easily fit in the frunk. Two tarps, one for the ground and one to cover. Tent pegs and a hammer. I carry an Easy up canopy (mines from COSTCO) in the passenger set. A second set of shoes to set up especially if the grass is wet.

mtregan

Thank you. DE signups around here just opened up March 1 so have time. Did a couple DE events with my father end of last year. He started last summer with my 18yr old daughter. When she went to college he recruited me. We're all beginner/novice so we were splitting the session times last year. Would be too hard to do with 3 people this summer so I found the 981 for my daughter and I. Will do some DE together and some by ourselves so we get more sessions in the car.

We have a good Porsche Independent shop nearby. Plan to have them go through it next month. I think for now the Michelin's will be fine. Have a ways to go before I need actual track tires. The car is on 20's now. Is there a reason to drop down to 19" or 18" wheels. I've heard some say there are more tire choices at a better price point? Is it bad to run on 20's or just more economical to run smaller wheels.

Kitc2246

More tire availability and economical with 18s. The taller sidewall also protects the wheel. I have run my 20s with PZeroes when it was wet and cold. Bought my 18s from Tire Rack with Hankook RS4s installed.

ncster

Will echo Kitc's comments:

• High temperature brake fluid is a must. I've seen folks with soft brake pedal or no brake pedal because of standard brake fluid boiling just about every track day. I ran Motul RBF600 last year but switching to 660 this year.
• OEM brake pads (assuming enough life left) are fine at novice level. I used OEM pads for my first 5 track days (4 in novice group, 1 in intermediate group). I didn't experience any brake fade. I've since switched up to Ferodo DS3.12s, which are more confidence inspiring, allowing me to be a little more aggressive with braking.
• Keep an eye on your rotors. Be sure to clear the holes of brake dust before track days. Keep a track of heat cracks. If they get too long, too close to the edge, or start connecting, it's time for new rotors.
• Any decent summer tire (300TW) on the OEM 20" rims will be fine. Once you're in the intermediate group and are picking up pace, you can look into 18" rims with 200TW tires.

AngeloGTS

Also use Rs4s on Apex 18s, but as per prior posts just use your OEM wheels the first few events at least. OEM pads should also be fine (be sure to check them periodically throughout the weekend... I did manage to wear out an entire pad one event in my 1st year, in part because novices over-brake).

Really the only thing I changed 1st year was to Motul-600 fluid, and that was sufficient. And after that, the slippery slope began.....

Cliff3

I would insure that whatever maintenance is specified in Porsche's maintenance booklet for your mileage has been performed. Since you have no service records, you'd be pretty much base-lining your car in terms of its service requirements. Replacing items in the shop is a lot less expensive than replacing them and dealing with the collateral damage after they have failed on a race track. So your serpentine belt and the plugs will be on that list, and while you're in there replace the tensioner for the belt and the ignition coils too (and maybe the heat shields from Suncoast for the latter).

I'd keep your car pretty much stock for now. Stick with the OE wheels and tires that fit them for now. Higher temp brake fluid is definitely in order since you'll be sharing the car and it will have less cool-down time between sessions. As you develop experience on track, that experience will guide your subsequent changes to the car.

toma nova

Go to a local alignment shop and get as much negative camber as possible - I got about -1.5 up front. This will help your tires’ shoulders until you upgrade to GT3 lower control arms.

Second for Hankook RS4s. PS4Ss are great dual-duty but just don’t have the longevity or grip of the RS4s.

mtregan

Looking on Pelican Parts I can pick the OEM brand spark plugs, coils, belt and pulley vs the Porsche ones for quite a bit less. I'm assuming as long as I stick to the ones labeled OEM I'd be okay? And I'm assuming I just need the pulley, not the tensioner lever.

Cyclman

Buy from FCP, free replacements are worth any premium. I would add 991 coil heat shields. I am uncomfortable with temps > 260, so did the 3rd radiator. Don’t scrimp on a helmet. Study track in car cams, learn brake points, turn in points, you’ll be way ahead of the curve. Lots to overwhelm you with, but once you start, it is addictive fun!

Kitc2246

YES. Second FCP Euro for parts. On my third set of front rotors. $50 to mail back. Had 911 coil pack heat shields installed Spring 2020. No issues after 30+ track days with original coil packs. Carry two spares. That said no additional labor when doing spark plugs. Not aware the need to preemptively replace the idler pulley (1) and tensioner with pulley (2). Someone with high mileage needs to comment. The tensioner with pulley are one part. If your are DIY you can remove belt access panel to inspect Belt and hand spin pulleys. You will need a large socket to release belt tension. Tricky DIY with the spacer bolt and washer. Too easy to drop. See threads.