Just wanted to chime in for anyone that wants to do this in the future that the u-clips (#5) used to secure the undertray to the bumper take M6 bolts.

 

we discussed it HERE , Bayson R send the bumper with an a kit that u splice and Tap. if you know a thing or two about connectors you can find some universal looking ones online.

 

Ah yeah. I've bought some 20 gauge wire and butt connectors and will be splicing into it.

 

Finished installing my front bumper! Looks amazing.. Couple things I thought I would share that might help others doing this in the future.
1. DRLs - I ended up splicing into the OEM harness since the end of my OEM harness wouldn't mate with the adapter provided by BaysonR. I picked up some 22 awg wire and butt splice connectors and put them together.
2. The frames on the side holding the mesh together in the bumper openings - I ended up drilling a couple of holes in the inner frames (ones closer to the body) and used some 4 inch zip ties to secure it to the clips on the bumper itself that the outer frames (the ones that can be seen from the front outside) secure themselves onto. The zipties aren't visible from the outside even if they're white. I used black ones.
3. The frame in the center holding the mesh together in the bumper opening - I drilled a few holes around the inner frame and used 4 inch zipties as well to secure it to the clips on the bumper itself.

I used the zipties as I couldn't get the clips that came with the bumper to work properly as others have. At least now I know that the mesh won't fall out.

It's so aggressive now with the front overhang being so much further that when I took it out the first time, I questioned what I had gotten myself into as I thought I would never be able to get out of my driveway without removing the bumper or ripping it off..

 

I had the same issue. I just took a blade and cut off the guiding pin blocking inside the adapter. Cant remember which side or plug. I just remember one side plugged up fine and one side i had to trim the inside of the plug.

 

GT4 Radiator for Bayson / ECS front bumper






Can be done with the 981 standard crash beam, and foam will not fit with the upper duct. The tab for the upper duct needs to be trimmed to clear the back of the crash beam.


Standard A/C lines with gt4 radiator mounting frame notice the top wont clear the A/C lines.


This is the GT4 AC lines routing and center support




PARTS
Pick up a CSF Radiator as they only cost a bit more then OEM GT4.
Support Frame 991-504-487-91-1E0 (frame to hold radiator and upper rear duct is one piece you can cut off the top section if retaining original ac lines)
4x Hexagon Nut PAF-108-333 (nuts to mount frame to car)
Air Duct 981-575-141-80-1E0 (duct from bumper to radiator)
Radiator Outer Support 991-106-338-01 (frame to hold the duct to radiator)
2x Radiator Lower Mount 991-106-538-02 (rubber lower mount)
2x Inner Support Retainer 991-504-587-90 (pins that hold the lower mount)
2x A/C Condenser Mount Bolt 999-919-133-09 (bolt that holes the lower mount pins to the frame)
2x Radiator Upper Mount 991-106-537-0
Water Hose 981-106-638-90
Water Hose Water Hose 981-106-639-90

Optional and recommended
Upper Duct 991-504-489-90-1E0 (front piece of the upper duct you dont need it if you end up not doing ac lines and cutting the top off the radiator mount.)
AC Line 981-573-103-8
A/C Refrigerant Liquid Hose 981-573-105-81
Support 991-573-841-0 (to support the middle of the ac lines)

I used a 1/4in - 3/4 truss head screw jb welded to a hole I drilled for the front a/c support

 

Really appreciate the details, photos, and the parts list for anyone out there looking to 100% replicate the factory GT4 radiator setup. I looked up the cost of everything you listed and it came out to around $2,000 so it's definitely for those out there with deeper pockets. I'm going to have settle for the center radiator that vents down when I install mine.

 

Total cost for me was about $1500.
I originally was going to just cut off the top duct of the support frame and not do A/C lines. With out ac lines and upper duct would have been $900.

 

Just did the CSF center rad as well. I used the oem crash bar and did not have to notch the tabs. I also used the stock AC lines. I was able to carefully bend the bottom line and route it under the middle of the radiator mount. I made sure no kink the line anywhere and used rubber isolators wherever it came close to an edge. I pushed the smaller upper AC line a little farther back. So far so good!

 

Does anyone have any issues with the air temp sensor that fits into the right front radiator air duct? I went to the track last Friday and it fell out on me and threw a check engine light. Fitment seems kind of loose. I ended up wrapping it in blue tape and shoving it back in just to get the check engine light cleared. But looking for a more permanent solution. Does the GT4 use a different / bigger sensor or is the aftermarket air ducts just made not as good?

 

great job on that csf fitment!

 

I see alot of people saying the undertray does not fit. was anyone elses way to small. mine doesnt even reach the bumper on the sides. the last two holes are nowhere near the plastic. also what are the brackets in the picture used for?

 

Yeah the undertray is too small. The fitment of everything is great except for that.

I think I only got 4 bolts in as well. I got newer ones though. If you look up the posts above, you'll see what size stainless steel bolts and washers I got from the hardware store.

Those are brackets that go under the DRL/fog lamp assembly and attach to the side intakes/grill assembly to help hold it in!

 

Does the toe hook hole align? I use a tow hook license plate holder and heard you need a different bar.

 

No the toe hook does not align, This was mentioned a few pages back. You do need a different bar, or if you are crafty re do the hole