$1300 for spark plug replacement??
Rennlist Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 989
Likes: 34
From: New Jersey
We should also pay attention to the terminology we use with the dealer as an "oil service" is often different than an "oil change". They'll hit you with a lot mumbo jumbo about different service checks for this and that with an oil service -- one dealer (BMW) told me they don't reset the computer if you ask for just an "oil change".
They have huge overhead, no doubt -- but they all have big ***** too.
They have huge overhead, no doubt -- but they all have big ***** too.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 1,220
Likes: 564
From: SF Bay Area
Doing a oil change is a good way to get into working on your own car. For the price of one dealer oil change you can buy all the tools you need. It’s not a very difficult job on a 987 or 981.
And by the time you have the tools to change the oil, you have most of what you need to do the plugs and coils. That’s not too tough either if you’re mechanically inclined. Like I said, my cost to change the plugs was $50 and a couple hours of my time.
And by the time you have the tools to change the oil, you have most of what you need to do the plugs and coils. That’s not too tough either if you’re mechanically inclined. Like I said, my cost to change the plugs was $50 and a couple hours of my time.
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 572
Likes: 161
From: Towaco, NJ
We should also pay attention to the terminology we use with the dealer as an "oil service" is often different than an "oil change". They'll hit you with a lot mumbo jumbo about different service checks for this and that with an oil service -- one dealer (BMW) told me they don't reset the computer if you ask for just an "oil change".
They have huge overhead, no doubt -- but they all have big ***** too.
They have huge overhead, no doubt -- but they all have big ***** too.
Pro
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 693
Likes: 60
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Called 3 more dealers and got pricing info. It's amazing that the disparity is so much.
Paul Miller Porsche
Paul Miller Porsche
- Oil & filter change: $625 - 10% PCA discount = $562.50
- Plugs & coils replacement: $1,650 - 10% PCA discount = $1,485.00
- Total: $2,047.50 + tax
- Oil & filter change: $450 ( running a special at $369.99 till the end of the month)
- Plugs & coils replacement: $1,403.08
- Total: $1,853.08 + tax
- Oil & filter change: $450
- Plugs & coils replacement: $1,100
- Total: $1,550.00 + tax
- Oil & filter change: $410 - 10% PCA discount = $369.00
- Plugs & coils replacement: $900 - 10% PCA discount = $810.00
- Total: $1,179.00 + tax
Filter: $28.23
O-ring: $11.83
Seal Ring: $2.41
Engine Cleaner: $29.20
Pennzoil Syn SAE 5W40 API SN EURO L: 9 x $5.66, $50.94
Parts: $110.78
Labor: $178.50.
Total before tax: $301.11.
Technically, the engine cleaner could have been part of my 20k service, but this is how it was broken down on my invoice. Never asked for a PCA discount, but will in the future. Crazy that another dealer charges double, even though I know different areas of the country are pricier than here. My local Indy wasn't (though there are several)... that much cheaper. I actually really like my dealership's service department. Sadly, can't say that for my RRover. Either way, got an appointment with about 3 days notice. Pretty great.
Last edited by guab; Aug 14, 2018 at 07:37 PM.
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Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,001
Likes: 380
From: Chicago Area
Update - Changed plugs and coils myself yesterday on my '05 Boxster S.
Inspiration: In electing to do so, I consulted this forum, YouTube videos, 101 Projects for Your Boxster book, and my own burning desire to wrench a bit from time to time (let's call it therapy).
Preparation: So, I saddled up and ordered genuine Porsche coils and plugs (Suncoast - $370 + $108 +$1 shipping promo), a nice magnetic swiveling spark plug socket (Amazon - $15), plus a couple needed Torx sockets (actually bought a set of each male and female (Harbor Freight - $10 + $10).
Learnings: Moderately straight-forward job for the shade-tree mechanic. The right tools make a HUGE difference. I already had a good set of sockets, extensions, ratchets, torque wrench, etc. A couple of good ratchets and an assortment of extensions is most helpful, especially when you need to torque each plug (not a lot of room, requires differing extension lengths to do it right). I also have a reasonable ability jack the car up safely onto stands (I use two good jacks in tandem and take my time - ridiculously careful perhaps). For this job, I only raised the rear of the car.
Outcome: Really satisfied with the result. Car runs noticeably smoother and makes outstanding power again. I suspected that at 63,000 miles and 13 years of age, it might be impactful. But... WOW. No codes were being thrown either, go figure. Highly recommended due to miles and, in my case, age of the vehicle.
Forensics: Plugs all looked identically "used" with no specific issues, usual tarnish / ash color. The coils on the other hand... 5 of 6 had small cracks in them. Call them "hairline plus" in size. No oil leaks or issues with the spark plug holes themselves. Each electircal connector came on / off as it should and looked new under the rubber sleeve.
Bonus: Found one of the rear tires had a piece of steel in the tread that I'd have likely never seen if I hadn't been pulling the wheels and wheel liners off. Found and fixed.
Thanks for starting this thread and inspiring me to update some critical parts!
Dave
'05 987S
'92 968 SP3
'88 944 NA (gone)
Inspiration: In electing to do so, I consulted this forum, YouTube videos, 101 Projects for Your Boxster book, and my own burning desire to wrench a bit from time to time (let's call it therapy).
Preparation: So, I saddled up and ordered genuine Porsche coils and plugs (Suncoast - $370 + $108 +$1 shipping promo), a nice magnetic swiveling spark plug socket (Amazon - $15), plus a couple needed Torx sockets (actually bought a set of each male and female (Harbor Freight - $10 + $10).
Learnings: Moderately straight-forward job for the shade-tree mechanic. The right tools make a HUGE difference. I already had a good set of sockets, extensions, ratchets, torque wrench, etc. A couple of good ratchets and an assortment of extensions is most helpful, especially when you need to torque each plug (not a lot of room, requires differing extension lengths to do it right). I also have a reasonable ability jack the car up safely onto stands (I use two good jacks in tandem and take my time - ridiculously careful perhaps). For this job, I only raised the rear of the car.
Outcome: Really satisfied with the result. Car runs noticeably smoother and makes outstanding power again. I suspected that at 63,000 miles and 13 years of age, it might be impactful. But... WOW. No codes were being thrown either, go figure. Highly recommended due to miles and, in my case, age of the vehicle.
Forensics: Plugs all looked identically "used" with no specific issues, usual tarnish / ash color. The coils on the other hand... 5 of 6 had small cracks in them. Call them "hairline plus" in size. No oil leaks or issues with the spark plug holes themselves. Each electircal connector came on / off as it should and looked new under the rubber sleeve.
Bonus: Found one of the rear tires had a piece of steel in the tread that I'd have likely never seen if I hadn't been pulling the wheels and wheel liners off. Found and fixed.
Thanks for starting this thread and inspiring me to update some critical parts!
Dave
'05 987S
'92 968 SP3
'88 944 NA (gone)
Last edited by Dave in Chicago; Aug 25, 2018 at 11:39 AM.
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 572
Likes: 161
From: Towaco, NJ
Update - Changed plugs and coils myself yesterday on my '05 Boxster S.
Inspiration: In electing to do so, I consulted this forum, YouTube videos, 101 Projects for Your Boxster book, and my own burning desire to wrench a bit from time to time (let's call it therapy).
Preparation: So, I saddled up and ordered genuine Porsche coils and plugs (Suncoast - $370 + $108 +$1 shipping promo), a nice magnetic swiveling spark plug socket (Amazon - $15), plus a couple needed Torx sockets (actually bought a set of each male and female (Harbor Freight - $10 + $10).
Learnings: Moderately straight-forward job for the shade-tree mechanic. The right tools make a HUGE difference. I already had a good set of sockets, extensions, ratchets, torque wrench, etc. A couple of good ratchets and an assortment of extensions is most helpful, especially when you need to torque each plug (not a lot of room, requires differing extension lengths to do it right). I also have a reasonable ability jack the car up safely onto stands (I use two good jacks in tandem and take my time - ridiculously careful perhaps). For this job, I only raised the rear of the car.
Outcome: Really satisfied with the result. Car runs noticeably smoother and makes outstanding power again. I suspected that at 63,000 miles and 13 years of age, it might be impactful. But... WOW. No codes were being thrown either, go figure. Highly recommended due to miles and, in my case, age of the vehicle.
Forensics: Plugs all looked identically "used" with no specific issues, usual tarnish / ash color. The coils on the other hand... 5 of 6 had small cracks in them. Call them "hairline plus" in size. No oil leaks or issues with the spark plug holes themselves. Each electircal connector came on / off as it should and looked new under the rubber sleeve.
Bonus: Found one of the rear tires had a piece of steel in the tread that I'd have likely never seen if I hadn't been pulling the wheels and wheel liners off. Found and fixed.
Thanks for starting this thread and inspiring me to update some critical parts!
Dave
'05 987S
'92 968 SP3
'88 944 NA (gone)
Inspiration: In electing to do so, I consulted this forum, YouTube videos, 101 Projects for Your Boxster book, and my own burning desire to wrench a bit from time to time (let's call it therapy).
Preparation: So, I saddled up and ordered genuine Porsche coils and plugs (Suncoast - $370 + $108 +$1 shipping promo), a nice magnetic swiveling spark plug socket (Amazon - $15), plus a couple needed Torx sockets (actually bought a set of each male and female (Harbor Freight - $10 + $10).
Learnings: Moderately straight-forward job for the shade-tree mechanic. The right tools make a HUGE difference. I already had a good set of sockets, extensions, ratchets, torque wrench, etc. A couple of good ratchets and an assortment of extensions is most helpful, especially when you need to torque each plug (not a lot of room, requires differing extension lengths to do it right). I also have a reasonable ability jack the car up safely onto stands (I use two good jacks in tandem and take my time - ridiculously careful perhaps). For this job, I only raised the rear of the car.
Outcome: Really satisfied with the result. Car runs noticeably smoother and makes outstanding power again. I suspected that at 63,000 miles and 13 years of age, it might be impactful. But... WOW. No codes were being thrown either, go figure. Highly recommended due to miles and, in my case, age of the vehicle.
Forensics: Plugs all looked identically "used" with no specific issues, usual tarnish / ash color. The coils on the other hand... 5 of 6 had small cracks in them. Call them "hairline plus" in size. No oil leaks or issues with the spark plug holes themselves. Each electircal connector came on / off as it should and looked new under the rubber sleeve.
Bonus: Found one of the rear tires had a piece of steel in the tread that I'd have likely never seen if I hadn't been pulling the wheels and wheel liners off. Found and fixed.
Thanks for starting this thread and inspiring me to update some critical parts!
Dave
'05 987S
'92 968 SP3
'88 944 NA (gone)
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From: 150 miles east of the Gulf of Mexico
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 777
Likes: 228
From: Cumming,GA
I'll take my method for not having to try and get a seized and broken spark plug out of recessed hole. I don't really care what Porsche says...
Your aluminum engine block is softer than the steel threads on the plug. If it seizes in the hole and the plug doesn't break trying to get it out guess which is one is likely to still have threads on it when it comes out.
Your aluminum engine block is softer than the steel threads on the plug. If it seizes in the hole and the plug doesn't break trying to get it out guess which is one is likely to still have threads on it when it comes out.
Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,001
Likes: 380
From: Chicago Area
FWIW, all my old plugs came out without any issues. They seemed to have been appropriately torqued (read not overly tight) and were pretty consistent from plug to plug. Not sure how long they'd been in... certainly since before I acquired the car some 3 years and 35,000 miles ago.
And yes, I installed the new ones without anti-seize, per Porsche guidance. It's a pretty fine thread and I've learned it pays to take your time and ensure proper thread engagement. I also use a torque wrench to install them vs the old "that feels good and tight" method. Kinda big fan of proper torque on fasteners and such. Some fancy engineering goes into it, least I can do is follow the design spec, right?
One other thing, perhaps worth mentioning, is that the engine was completely cool and at room temp for this process (per the 101 Projects book recommendation). Heat / expansion rates... different metals... I don't need to fight what sounds like sound practice. So, the car sat overnight before even jacking it up.
Just got back from a little trip and, again, all I can says is WOW on the restored level of acceleration. Who knew it was down on power? Eager to track my gas mileage over the next week.
Dave
'05 987S
'92 968 SP3
'88 944 NA (gone)
And yes, I installed the new ones without anti-seize, per Porsche guidance. It's a pretty fine thread and I've learned it pays to take your time and ensure proper thread engagement. I also use a torque wrench to install them vs the old "that feels good and tight" method. Kinda big fan of proper torque on fasteners and such. Some fancy engineering goes into it, least I can do is follow the design spec, right?
One other thing, perhaps worth mentioning, is that the engine was completely cool and at room temp for this process (per the 101 Projects book recommendation). Heat / expansion rates... different metals... I don't need to fight what sounds like sound practice. So, the car sat overnight before even jacking it up.
Just got back from a little trip and, again, all I can says is WOW on the restored level of acceleration. Who knew it was down on power? Eager to track my gas mileage over the next week.
Dave
'05 987S
'92 968 SP3
'88 944 NA (gone)