Running very rough
07-15-2017, 10:12 AM
#16
mine had the telltale signs of arcing under the dimples on the plastic fuel rail mounts.
you might throw a c-note at a cap and button while its up un the menu. the magnesium cover can be delicate and get fluffy if it has had juice running through it. gentle with the cover screws and some dressing on the cap threads.
if your new wires are sleeveless and you want to use your old ones, simply unscrew the 2k ends.
I would promptly do an Italian tune up the shed the cat of the misfires.
you might throw a c-note at a cap and button while its up un the menu. the magnesium cover can be delicate and get fluffy if it has had juice running through it. gentle with the cover screws and some dressing on the cap threads.
if your new wires are sleeveless and you want to use your old ones, simply unscrew the 2k ends.
I would promptly do an Italian tune up the shed the cat of the misfires.
07-15-2017, 04:24 PM
#17
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mine had the telltale signs of arcing under the dimples on the plastic fuel rail mounts.
you might throw a c-note at a cap and button while its up un the menu. the magnesium cover can be delicate and get fluffy if it has had juice running through it. gentle with the cover screws and some dressing on the cap threads.
if your new wires are sleeveless and you want to use your old ones, simply unscrew the 2k ends.
I would promptly do an Italian tune up the shed the cat of the misfires.
you might throw a c-note at a cap and button while its up un the menu. the magnesium cover can be delicate and get fluffy if it has had juice running through it. gentle with the cover screws and some dressing on the cap threads.
if your new wires are sleeveless and you want to use your old ones, simply unscrew the 2k ends.
I would promptly do an Italian tune up the shed the cat of the misfires.
. Got the cap part, good idea, had thought about replacing it as well. What part of the wires app screw? I ordered a set of Bosch wires and picture included everything I currently have on the wires.
Suggesting I get rid of cat? Thought about doing that too but, how much will it change the sound with everything else stock.
Thanks again.
07-15-2017, 04:29 PM
#18
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Update:
Think I might be on the right track. Cleaned just the plug holes (probably wasn't/isn't the problem but, it looks better) and the plug ends of the wires (soaked over night) blew everything dry with compressed air and put it back together.
Started it up and it ran nice and smooth. Took it for a ride and ran beautiful for the first 15 minutes and then started acting like before. Stumbling, rough idle and no power....
Plugs and wires will be here next week. There was still plenty of corrosion on the plug wire ends and perhaps some residual moisture that made it act up again.
Think I might be on the right track. Cleaned just the plug holes (probably wasn't/isn't the problem but, it looks better) and the plug ends of the wires (soaked over night) blew everything dry with compressed air and put it back together.
Started it up and it ran nice and smooth. Took it for a ride and ran beautiful for the first 15 minutes and then started acting like before. Stumbling, rough idle and no power....
Plugs and wires will be here next week. There was still plenty of corrosion on the plug wire ends and perhaps some residual moisture that made it act up again.
07-15-2017, 07:14 PM
#19
Sorry, I mumble in real life also))
When you get the vanity cover off, the spark plug wires/leads are clamped down to the long plastic cover on the fuel rail. It has three tabs and a metal sliding clip by the number one cylinder. (Don't lose the clip by letting it fly off)
Attached to this loom cover is a couple clamps to hold the plug wires that sandwich together with a Phillips head screw. (This is where my wires where arcing between cylinders.)
Once you have the wires removed, the cylindrical 2k ohm end unscrews from the wire. If your new wires do not have the multi part protective sleeves, you can reuse the old protective sleeves on the new wires...some ppl don't but it adds an insulating factor that the factory thought was necessary so I tend to agree with their thought process. Red wires do look so pretty but the wires are pretty expensive.
Leave it off until it's running good. Raw fuel in the cat can go boom.
When you get the vanity cover off, the spark plug wires/leads are clamped down to the long plastic cover on the fuel rail. It has three tabs and a metal sliding clip by the number one cylinder. (Don't lose the clip by letting it fly off)
Attached to this loom cover is a couple clamps to hold the plug wires that sandwich together with a Phillips head screw. (This is where my wires where arcing between cylinders.)
Once you have the wires removed, the cylindrical 2k ohm end unscrews from the wire. If your new wires do not have the multi part protective sleeves, you can reuse the old protective sleeves on the new wires...some ppl don't but it adds an insulating factor that the factory thought was necessary so I tend to agree with their thought process. Red wires do look so pretty but the wires are pretty expensive.
Leave it off until it's running good. Raw fuel in the cat can go boom.
07-17-2017, 05:32 PM
#20
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No worries Thomas.... Plugs and wires showed up today. Replaced all the plugs and all plug wires except the on in front closest to the cap; wire too short (Bosch 09151) so I used the old OE wire. Only paid $29 for the wires so not all that concerned about it. Ordered a set of NGK wires, hopefully with better luck.
Bottom line, car runs awesome again! Definitely was the issue. Thanks everyone!
Bottom line, car runs awesome again! Definitely was the issue. Thanks everyone!