BikePilot

My check engine light has come on and I'd like to know what it's bothered about (car runs nicely). I did a search and found several posts referring to a method of checking codes by holding the accelerator pedal down for 3 seconds (engine off of course) and ignition on. I've tried this a dozen times and can't get anything to flash. Am I missing something? I pasted the instructions I found below for reference.

I thought of buying something like this
http://www.durametric.com/porsche-968.aspx

Anyone use durametric? If so any thoughts on how well it works?

BikePilot

Bump, has anyone managed to check their own fault codes either with Durametric software or some other means?

Jfrahm

There is an OBDII cable that comes with a bootleg version of Durametric (older version) that can be made to work but it's not easy. You can buy an adapter to go from the Porsche 19 pin connector to OBD2 but that cable is, internally, a joke. It's just the first 10 pins of each connected through, and skips lots of important pins. I cannot imagine it ever worked on anything.

Acting on some instructions on another forum I cut that 19 pin to OBD2 adapter apart and made a workable adapter. The arrangement worked, read codes and reset the airbag module. but IMO it'd be easier to get some banana plugs that are the right size and just connect a few lines on the 19 pin to the relevant ones on the OBD2 cable. The adapter cable is hard to get apart and all the pins are potted in plastic. It's a mess. I would get an OBD2 extension rather than adapter if I were going to do it again. It should be easy enough to connect the 7 pins or so on the car side when you need to.

If you attempt to use the bootleg cable with a newer version of Durametric, the software overwrites the cable firmware and renders it inert.

-Joel.

joes

This worked for me. It is supposed to be for 993 but the OBDI is basically the same. Contact him.
www.bergvillfx.com

ramius665

I bought the Durametric cable and the 19 pin adapter. It's expensive for what it is (see above) but I had ZERO issues, connected up without complications and reset my airbag light immediately. It's also go some other interesting features but I haven't spent a whole lot of time with it.

John Etnier

FWIW the pedal system should work. Are you sure the 'check engine' light isn't flashing. I've done this in the past expecting the large "!" lamp to light up: it isn't that one. Confirm that the 'check engine' light ignites when you start the car? It's a test of the bulb.

BikePilot

Thanks John, I was at first watching the "!" lamp, but since have watched the "check engine" lamp as well. The "check engine" light does come on when I turn the key on (and is always on now). I've watched it and the large "!" lamp and neither flashes. Weird huh? If a previous owner chipped the car would that typically disable the accelerator-pedal-induced flashing feature?

Ramius, thanks for that, just what I wanted to know. If it works well I think it's probably worth the cost to me. Joes, I'll definitely check that out, definitely less expensive than the durametric setup. Any idea how it differs from durametric in functionality?

John Etnier

It would seem unlikely. My car is chipped and flashes OK.

BikePilot

Thanks.

Just to make sure I'm doing it correctly, all it's supposed to take to make it flash the code is to turn the key to the on position and depress the throttle pedal all the way, wait around 3sec and it should start flashing, correct?

tamathumper

That is correct, directions are online in several places if you need them.

Mine is also chipped but blinks just fine.

docmirror

This presumes that the WOT switch will activate. Mine doesn't, therefore the flash code doesn't work. This could be why the OPs doesn't work either. The WOT switch has to 'make' or close for the three seconds to get into diag mode.

BikePilot

Ah! I didn't know there was a WOT switch. I will investigate this--I bet it isn't working and that's why I can't get it to flash codes.

docmirror

Oops, I was mistaken. There is no WOT on the 968, only an idle switch. So, if the code scan procedure isn't working, your idle switch may not be working.

BikePilot

hmm, I'll toss on a new TPS and see what that does.

BikePilot

Fiddled with the TPS and noted the throttle cable was just a little slack. Adjusted it so that it had almost no slack and now it works!

I get
1-1-1-3-2 (one too many 1s so maybe the first is a separator? I'm guessing it's 1-1-3-2 which would be knock sensor #2). I don't hear/feel any knocking--think it's a faulty sensor or slight knocking? I always use premium grade fuel (93 octane in my part of the world).