I am taking the front apart so I can do the balance shaft seals, and the belts. I found the upper balance shaft set to the "0" mark, and not the "|" mark. I knew this engine was in the middle of a belt job when it was abandoned. I checked the belts carefully when I bought it, but didn't look at the timing real well beyond the cam belt.

It was running fine, no wobbles or shaking. In fact, after I put the new motor mounts in, it was very smooth. Wonder if this will make any difference at all when I put it back.

Another in the long list of PO mistakes. Sigh,,,,,

 

Well, the bottom was off two teeth as well. They just didn't read the book and set them at the 0 mark. DOH!

 

Doc, I had the same problem with mine. In edition to that, my timing was off by one tooth.

Doug

 

I always use the notches on the back of the BS pulleys to do the timing, they are so smooth when they are timed right!

 

Does the woodruff key have to come off to remove the lower shaft support housing? I've got the housing loose, and it move around on the shaft, but I can't get the housing to come forward off the shaft. The shaft moves in and out with the housing. I've tapped on it a bit but it's stuck pretty well on there.

This is a huge mess for two seals.

 

Doc, have you removed the spacer sleeve, PN 928 105 139 02? From looking at the diagram, it looks like the bearing sleeve, PN 944 101 125 02 may be involved. When I replaced my seals I also replaced the spacer sleeves. I don't remember if I had to remove the woodruff keys. I never tried to remove the shaft support housing. This may not be much help, sorry.

Doug

 

That appears to be the problem. I've got the assembly off the shaft now, but 25 (125 02)is embedded in the housing, and it's locking 4 (139 02) inside. I can't drive 25 backward yet. I've got the woodruff key out. I can proceed to remove the balance shaft now and put the rear seal in but I have to get the old seals out of the housing to replace that front seal.

 

The way I removed all the front seals, since they are all pressed into aluminum, is first using a Dremel tool or some other small drill, make about a 1/8 inch diameter hole in the center of the seal face. Then, using a 90 degree angle pick, insert into the 1/8 inch hole and yank the seal out. If the seal is being stubborn, a pair of slip-joint pliers can be used as an improvised slide hammer with the 90 degree pick. It works for me and no danger of marring up the seal bores if you are careful. After that the spacer sleeves slid right out. I still don't remember about the woodruff keys though.

Doug

 

So you're doing the rear seals too, doc? Let us know how much work it is!

I just gobbed a bunch of RTV on them and called it done. I'll seal them properly when I get around to pulling the engine for its refresh in a couple years time. I did the rear of the top balance shaft first, and that seemed to be working well after a couple weeks of use, so I repeated for the bottom rear. I can't say for certain if it's stopped entirely, but the quantity of fluid left in puddles on the carport floor is greatly diminished.

 

OK, it's all apart. Yes, I'm doing the rear seal too. This is really a **** job, but I was leaking front and back so I wanted to do the whole thing.

The front seal is drifted out now. I just used a 17mm socket and an extension and put it in the rear side of the housing and drifted the seal and the sealing ring as a group. Now that it's out, I can see where my leak is coming from The front sealing ring has some water etching damage where the seal runs. Even this small inclusion in the metal will cause the seal to seep very slowly. I've tried sanding it clean, but the inclusions are too deep so I'll replace it. Luckily, I can do much of the install job without that seal in place, so I can keep working.

So far the worst job is getting the balance shaft housing off the crankcase. I had to cut off the head of the far rear upper bolt where it interfered with the header. When I put it back, I'll put a threaded shaft in place with the housing and nut the shaft. A very sloppy design.

 

Well, a day that ends with the oxy-acet welder can't be good. I was on the downhill run, putting my timing stuff back when the silver guide under the balance belt cracked where it folds over. So, a bit of grinding and welding and I'm back in business. It's pretty much buttoned up except for the lower shaft seal ring and seal. Once that comes in I'll be able to close it back up. Getting the balance shaft back in the car was a bit of fun. Had to use heavy grease to hold a few bolts in place so I could guide it up in there. The bolt just below the motor mount arm, and the far back upper bolt need to be in before setting the cover in place.

I've got some parts on the way, and I may be done by Friday. This has been a crappy, messy, gunky job to get three seals replaced. I hope they last another 20 years.

 

It's all back together again. I've taken a little ride, and the engine is nice and smooth. I really can't tell any difference from before, but that's ok. I'm sure I've got the oil leaks fixed for now. If it lasts another 20 years, I'll be happy. Heck, I'll be happy with 8-10 years. It was not a pleasant job, working under the car, in 100F temps with gunky oil isn't much fun. Now, I'm going to get it up on the lift again, and go at it with the pressure washer real good.