Shift Lever
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I purchased a 944 shift lever to replace the aftermarket Kokeln Short Shift Lever in my 968. I thought this would be a no brainer as the part number in the PET started with 944, but it seams as though I made a mistake. Did Porsche decide to lower the shift linkage pin in the 968? I cant get the shift linkage to lift high enough off the torque tube to fit on the pin. Quite annoying.
Is there something at the transaxle I need to adjust? Or do I need a different lever?
Here they are...
![](http://ceipv.com/jak/shifter1.jpg)
![](http://ceipv.com/jak/shifter2.jpg)
Thanks,
Jax
Is there something at the transaxle I need to adjust? Or do I need a different lever?
Here they are...
![](http://ceipv.com/jak/shifter1.jpg)
![](http://ceipv.com/jak/shifter2.jpg)
Thanks,
Jax
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The one I bought is modified and made specifically for 944.
I am trying to figure out if the height where the shift linkage connects is in fact at a different height in the 968 than in the 944.
Does anyone know what this height should be?
If they are the same height, then I know something was done at the transaxle to cause this change.
I am trying to figure out if the height where the shift linkage connects is in fact at a different height in the 968 than in the 944.
Does anyone know what this height should be?
If they are the same height, then I know something was done at the transaxle to cause this change.
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I can't answer your question based on "knowledge", but I've just replaced the standard lever on my '93 968 Cab, with the excellent Design Racing 1 short shift kit. To achieve the shorter actuation distance at the top of the shift lever, ie the throw, the linkage pin is moved further away from the pivot point. On the DR1 kit this distance is adjustable via washers, on your Kokeln by a screw thread .
Looking at your pics the distance between the Kokeln and the modified "stock" shifter is way greater, which suggests that either the Kokeln kit had a hugely long throw, or the modified shifter has a very, very short actuation.
Or, and this seems more likely, the 944 shift lever is different to [from?] the 968. I can't see that anything at the transmission could effect the issue.
Looking at your pics the distance between the Kokeln and the modified "stock" shifter is way greater, which suggests that either the Kokeln kit had a hugely long throw, or the modified shifter has a very, very short actuation.
Or, and this seems more likely, the 944 shift lever is different to [from?] the 968. I can't see that anything at the transmission could effect the issue.
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I should have made myself more clear.
There is a difference in the stock 944 and 968 shifters.
The one you purchased is the stock height for a 944, the Koklein is the stock height for the 968.
Personally...I would not touch a DR1 piece of s..t. That shifter is a slightly modified 968 shift lever.
There is a difference in the stock 944 and 968 shifters.
The one you purchased is the stock height for a 944, the Koklein is the stock height for the 968.
Personally...I would not touch a DR1 piece of s..t. That shifter is a slightly modified 968 shift lever.
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Jax, what is the reason you want to change from the Koklein? Just curious.
If you want to use the 944 shifter, you may be able to modify the sheetmetal where the interference is or bend the shift linkage to make it work.
If you can get it to work, I think your shift throw would be very short and maybe really heavy.
Just a speculation.
If you want to use the 944 shifter, you may be able to modify the sheetmetal where the interference is or bend the shift linkage to make it work.
If you can get it to work, I think your shift throw would be very short and maybe really heavy.
Just a speculation.
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i had both a 944Racing SSK as well as the DR1 SSk in my car. DR1 is an excellent piece imho. adjustable and allowed for use of the OEM shift **** which is exactly what i wanted.
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I can chime in with info ( spell check will not be used, too tired.....) - first off the 944s have different part numbers pre 1985. The 85-89s up through the S2s also have differnt numbers in some house from the 968s but I can say with some certainanty that I have swapped 87 951 to 968 with no issue.
For sure the stock replacement shifter is not stock. The factory has a pin welded to the upright and never used a bolt but many did this mod a a quick fix to a worn pin. I have spares so I dug one out and measureed it for you. Pics to back up the numbers - ball park since they are used and the bends are not exactly square.
From top of reaction pin that attaches to the shifter rod - or in your case bolt to the bottom of the bracket is +/- 1.94"
From top of reaction pin to bottom of the pivot ball is +/- 2.835 or so..
Just visually yours is taller and appears to have heat discoloration meaning welding. The stock ones do not have this color differienation. I have one if you need it- PM me.
For more info here are th epics of a stock 968 shifter.
![](https://rennlist.com/forums/members/notthd-albums-shifter-picture16030-shifter-968c.jpg)
![](https://rennlist.com/forums/members/notthd-albums-shifter-picture16029-shifter-968b.jpg)
![](https://rennlist.com/forums/members/notthd-albums-shifter-picture16028-shifter-968a.jpg)
More info about shifter play and the assembly- Cheers Mike
Was replying to a post over in the 951 list since I bought one recently and wanted to reaquaint myself to that forum- man things seem different than 8 years ago... anyways.... I have had issues getting into 5th and reverse and this was my explination and fix- I am still out of town in Sc but now have interent acess- Cheers, Mike
#################################################
I have had this very problem in 2 951s and my 968. Definately check the lock bolt on the trans end of the shifter push rod that travels from the shifter to the trans. In all my cases the shifter push rod wears out and bevelles out the inside because it is aluminium and the shifter attachment rod or pin (welded or cast into the shifter itself) becomes worn like the pic (my best photoshop efferts) also worn out like the pic. I would pull the boot, the e-clamp that holds the rod to the shifter and inspect. When it bevelles out you will find 5th and or Reverse a bitch to get in depending on your adjustments. With the wear it teaders on the rod and does not rotate enough at the trans end to be in the proper gear.
Replace the rod, and or the shifter and there are some plastic bushing that wear but I'll bet this is your problem. I have permenantly fixed this by grinding off the shifter attachment rod and drilling and tapping a 3/16-18 hole. I then used a sholder bolt and cut it at the proper length with lubed washers at both ends. Then a quick tack weld to assure it will not back out. this adds additional load points to not only the inside of the push rod but also to the sides becasue of the washers. They make a cheap fix kits but it does not last long. With the bolt I have hade great sucess. Let me know if this makes sense. The bolt then takes the place of the shifter attachment pin on the shifter.
I included the adjustment procedure also just incase.
Good luck- Cheers, Mike
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/shifter_slop_diagram.jpg)
http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/sh...op_diagram.jpg
For sure the stock replacement shifter is not stock. The factory has a pin welded to the upright and never used a bolt but many did this mod a a quick fix to a worn pin. I have spares so I dug one out and measureed it for you. Pics to back up the numbers - ball park since they are used and the bends are not exactly square.
From top of reaction pin that attaches to the shifter rod - or in your case bolt to the bottom of the bracket is +/- 1.94"
From top of reaction pin to bottom of the pivot ball is +/- 2.835 or so..
Just visually yours is taller and appears to have heat discoloration meaning welding. The stock ones do not have this color differienation. I have one if you need it- PM me.
For more info here are th epics of a stock 968 shifter.
![](https://rennlist.com/forums/members/notthd-albums-shifter-picture16030-shifter-968c.jpg)
![](https://rennlist.com/forums/members/notthd-albums-shifter-picture16029-shifter-968b.jpg)
![](https://rennlist.com/forums/members/notthd-albums-shifter-picture16028-shifter-968a.jpg)
More info about shifter play and the assembly- Cheers Mike
Was replying to a post over in the 951 list since I bought one recently and wanted to reaquaint myself to that forum- man things seem different than 8 years ago... anyways.... I have had issues getting into 5th and reverse and this was my explination and fix- I am still out of town in Sc but now have interent acess- Cheers, Mike
#################################################
I have had this very problem in 2 951s and my 968. Definately check the lock bolt on the trans end of the shifter push rod that travels from the shifter to the trans. In all my cases the shifter push rod wears out and bevelles out the inside because it is aluminium and the shifter attachment rod or pin (welded or cast into the shifter itself) becomes worn like the pic (my best photoshop efferts) also worn out like the pic. I would pull the boot, the e-clamp that holds the rod to the shifter and inspect. When it bevelles out you will find 5th and or Reverse a bitch to get in depending on your adjustments. With the wear it teaders on the rod and does not rotate enough at the trans end to be in the proper gear.
Replace the rod, and or the shifter and there are some plastic bushing that wear but I'll bet this is your problem. I have permenantly fixed this by grinding off the shifter attachment rod and drilling and tapping a 3/16-18 hole. I then used a sholder bolt and cut it at the proper length with lubed washers at both ends. Then a quick tack weld to assure it will not back out. this adds additional load points to not only the inside of the push rod but also to the sides becasue of the washers. They make a cheap fix kits but it does not last long. With the bolt I have hade great sucess. Let me know if this makes sense. The bolt then takes the place of the shifter attachment pin on the shifter.
I included the adjustment procedure also just incase.
Good luck- Cheers, Mike
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/shifter_slop_diagram.jpg)
http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/sh...op_diagram.jpg
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Now THAT is a post! Thanks Mike. I may have to get that shifter from you! The Kokeln is adjusted so the top of the action pin to the base of the ball joint is 3.15". Probably set to be just high enough before the linkage rod would hit the roof of the opening, a nifty feature Im sure.I wonder if there will be any noticeable throw difference when I go back to the stock lever? Oh well, if thats what the Dr. ordered.
I have a new shift boot from Pelican and a 6-speed stainless shifter cap from rennbay im excited to install, but it will not fit on this shifter, and I am not a fan of the Momo that came with the car.
Thanks for taking the time to get those measurement and for your help.
Jax
I have a new shift boot from Pelican and a 6-speed stainless shifter cap from rennbay im excited to install, but it will not fit on this shifter, and I am not a fan of the Momo that came with the car.
Thanks for taking the time to get those measurement and for your help.
Jax
#10
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Currently having one car with the Kokeln and one with stock, yes you will definitely see a difference in throw. Stock is much longer but much less notchy.
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This is exactly why i bought a DR1 SSK. It allows you to retain the oem shift ****/boot while reducing the throw. In combination with the 944Racing SSK...i had a very very short Honda S2000esque throw with a stock ****. Swaped the boot for a suede boot and also installed the Stainless insert. Was fantastic.