odurandina

well... winter's on it's way. here's to fine wine and the world's best oil...


but $16.30 always was a little steep yes ?

http://www.mobil1racingstore.com/mo1ra0w.html


$13/quart ?...

http://www.nissanraceshop.com/produc...Fao7OgodHjwALQ


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JDS968

You bastard. Why didn't you tell me you found a better price? I just changed the oil + filter (+ drain plug washer) yesterday (having ordered 12 quarts a few weeks ago).

Oh well. Here's to fine oil, fine Porsches, and fine Swedish girls. Oh what a month it's been.

odurandina

just turned 100 k miles since purchase and running 0w40/0w50 oils exclusively during the cool/cold months with spectacular results.

engine still has tons of power and rules the outer reaches of the celestial sphere.








0w40 is not a thin oil. 0w50 is even less not thin.....

Dave in Chicago

What were your oil temps?

odurandina

your engine is old and worn...... and you're taking her through the tight turns of Sebring.

might be time to change to 20w50 oil.

968workaholic

Just my .02 but the 0 weight doesn't play well with the tolerances inside of the vario-cam due to the lack of seals inside the vario-cam unit, therefore relying on the film thickness of the oil to seal the passages inside of it. Not a big deal if your car spends its life in 40+ temps but just something to consider. Not saying your car is going to explode if your run 0w40, it is a good oil for sure.

car_slave

I ran M1 0 W-40 on the track and thought it was crap. The pressure dropped a lot, and I got significantly more deposits on the oil plug magnet compared to other brands I've used. I'm trying some Lubro Moly 10 W-60 at an event this weekend. Currently about $47 for a 5L jug.

JDS968

Are you referring to the LS? If so, how the hell have you put 100,000 miles on it already???

Now that you mention it...I have no idea. I wish the 968 came with an oil temperature gauge. I'm going to add one, eventually.

Both of you are making valid statements, however, let's review what we already know:

1: The oil I'm using is rated 0W-50.

2: The situations where all of this is relevant (track use and seepage past the Variocam passages) occur when the engine and oil are heated up to operating temperature, not on cold start.

3: The "50" rating is the only measurement relevant to viscosity at operating temperature. "50" is a relatively high rating. Although "60" weight oils are available, they represent a rather extreme viscosity mostly for modern engines which are designed to run at higher temperatures. "50" is pretty thick, and is in fact the highest viscosity listed in the original 968 owner's manual as an approved rating.

4: The "0W" rating is only relevant at low temperatures experienced during cold start. As we've established before, all oils are too thick for optimal lubrication at cold start, so the least viscous oil available will lubricate best. In other words, a 0W oil at cold start is thicker than a 60 weight oil at operating temperature. Since we assume that a 60 weight oil at operating temperature would not be insufficiently thick for this engine (whether due to general wear or specifically in the Variocam system), there is little reason to believe a 0W oil at cold start, being even thicker, would cause any problems due to insufficient viscosity.

odurandina

it's that time of the year again....





and no better time to stock up on the best oil money can buy for your Porsche 968 (for after the warm summer sunny weather fades to grey).

12.99/qt.

http://www.nissanraceshop.com/produc...Fao7OgodHjwALQ



.

dougs968

Interesting chart. ^^^^ I noticed they included V-twin 20w50. I haven't looked into it yet, and it is geared towards air cooled motorcycles, but I wonder if it is safe for our cars? If it is, probably best for these hot southern summers. Pretty high ZDDP level.

odurandina

Doug.

their V-Twin oil has been discussed and passes muster.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...Race_Cars.aspx


great summer oil to blend in with a cheap jug of Walmart 15w50.

for summer.


in the table below I used the thickest 15w50 grade synthetic available: Redline....

notice how at operating temp, their 20w50 oil is less than 1 % thicker.



oil/SAE grade ................... visc @ 104° F............................. visc @ running temp / 212°F


Mobil 1 20w50 V-Twin............. 172 ..............................................,. 20.8

Redline 20w50 ....................... 148 ............................................,.. 19.8

Redline 15w50 ....................... 138 ............................................... 19.6

Mobil 1 15w50 ....................... 125 ............................................... 18

Mobil 1 5w50 Rally Oil ............. 108 ............................................... 17.5

Mobil 1 0w50 Racing Oil ........... 100 ............................................... 17.2

Mobil 1 10w40 ......................... 96 ................................................ 14.7

Mobil 1 0w40 ........................... 75 ................................................ 13.5


with the V-twin oil being so thick at startup I would think it best to avoid using it at 100% mix.

JET951

I love that on the Mobil 1 Racing add above where it states " More Zinc, Less Wear " , why do modern so called synthetics use any ZDDP ?

Why does it have a last century ( WW2 ) designed Dino oil additive to make the oil keep metal parts away from each other , I thought that was the whole reason for the oil companies over the last 25 years spending millions of dollars in this expensive process in making so called synthetic engine oils in the first place

So does that mean that a so called synthetic engine oil without any ZDDP will not work in keeping metal parts away from each other ?

What a shocker

odurandina

it's got plenty of the new moly stuff too.

with no concern about cat failures, they chose to throw in everything but the kitchen sink.

JET951

The Moly stuff is ancient oil technology , again its a last century" Dino"additive , what the hell is going on with so called synthetic oils , why on earth are we paying twice the amount ( or more) than a normal good quality racing( Dino) oil

The question now becomes even more important

What on earth is wrong with so called synthetic engine oils , not only do they rely on one last century AW ( anti wear) oil additive , now we find out it has two last century Dino oil AW additives

I have read all the crap ( advertising ) under the sun in the last 20 years about how wonderful so called synthetic engine oils are & now I discover they are no different to a last century "Dino oil " relying on the very same AW additives

Why do Synthetic engine oils have last century AW packages ? ( now I find out they rely on more than one AW )

What a joke

mikew968

For track use the Lubro Moly is hands down the best oil I have every used including: Mobil 1, Amsoil, Schaffer etc. the 10w-60 costs a hp or 2 but lasts an entire 7 weekend race season! No discernable wear on the inside of engine when the head was refreshed.