Progress report
08-27-2011, 02:01 AM
#46
OkRider
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It's a no go on the odo. I am getting pretty proficient at removing the instrument cluster tho. There was one burned out 12/1.2 bulb in the cluster, so I replaced that. Removed, inspected and cleaned the rest. The bulb that lights the outside temp gage was dead too. That bulb looks the same as the instrument cluster bulbs but it's not. The locking mechanism and the contacts are enough different that they are not interchangeable. I found a used bulb at Oklahoma Foreign after checking all the local parts stores.
I finished? the dash brightening project. It came out ok I guess. I was hoping it would have been brighter, but it is better. Here are my observations and the way I did it. First off I searched this forum for details on this project. I started with cleaning the old silver reflective paint off with non-acetone finger nail polish remover and q-tips. This was taking too long so I "carefully" tried some laquer thinner. It actually worked much better and no clouding what so ever. Next, I traced out a paper template and bent/cut it to fit the plastic "soon to be reflective tunnels" again. Using the template, I drew the outline of it on the paper side of the mylar. Cut out the mylar. Beware, after the paper has been peeled off the mylar,cus' this stuff is pretty tacky. Once you stick it down it wants to stay stuck. Except in my case where I tried to work it down into the lens recess. It kept coming up even after puncturing it with an exacto knife. Because of this I am probably not getting very good light reflection. I will rework it later. On the matter of the three tunnels where the bulbs nest, the prospect of me getting that mylar in there is pretty bleak. I opted for using aluminum foil. Shiny side facing bulb. I used silicone to bond the foil to the tunnels. I was going to use Sylvania 194 bulbs but they were long life bulbs and rated at almost 5 watts. Might be too hot so I went with 168s, I think. I took some pictures of this process.
I took the instrument cluster to work today and had our head EE look at it. Power is going to the board if the speedometer is working. He thinks it may be the motor that drives the odometer. I called one of the Odometer repair outfits and asked for voltage input values so we could test it here. They want me to send it in. That will probably be a winter project.
Doug
I finished? the dash brightening project. It came out ok I guess. I was hoping it would have been brighter, but it is better. Here are my observations and the way I did it. First off I searched this forum for details on this project. I started with cleaning the old silver reflective paint off with non-acetone finger nail polish remover and q-tips. This was taking too long so I "carefully" tried some laquer thinner. It actually worked much better and no clouding what so ever. Next, I traced out a paper template and bent/cut it to fit the plastic "soon to be reflective tunnels" again. Using the template, I drew the outline of it on the paper side of the mylar. Cut out the mylar. Beware, after the paper has been peeled off the mylar,cus' this stuff is pretty tacky. Once you stick it down it wants to stay stuck. Except in my case where I tried to work it down into the lens recess. It kept coming up even after puncturing it with an exacto knife. Because of this I am probably not getting very good light reflection. I will rework it later. On the matter of the three tunnels where the bulbs nest, the prospect of me getting that mylar in there is pretty bleak. I opted for using aluminum foil. Shiny side facing bulb. I used silicone to bond the foil to the tunnels. I was going to use Sylvania 194 bulbs but they were long life bulbs and rated at almost 5 watts. Might be too hot so I went with 168s, I think. I took some pictures of this process.
I took the instrument cluster to work today and had our head EE look at it. Power is going to the board if the speedometer is working. He thinks it may be the motor that drives the odometer. I called one of the Odometer repair outfits and asked for voltage input values so we could test it here. They want me to send it in. That will probably be a winter project.
Doug
08-29-2011, 11:30 PM
#47
OkRider
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Started working on the sunroof area this weekend. At this point I believe there is some sort of electrical issue. I found the Clarks' Garage link and started studying that. Took a break and decided to check/clean the sunroof drain hoses. The rears drain fine. The fronts drain on the carpet. So I looked at all my info sources on how to access the front hoses. It seems to me that the left and right column covers have to come off. OK. They seem to, at the moment, be glued in places to the windshield. Nice. My fault for not reading the section in workshop manual about windshield replacement and then passing the info on to the windshield guys. I'm guessing a very flexible and sharp knife to unstick the covers. What do you guys think?
More fun today. The turn signal lever return switch broke, only works turning left. Drivers door latch mechanism broke. I have to reach through the window to open the door now. More homework tonight.
Doug
More fun today. The turn signal lever return switch broke, only works turning left. Drivers door latch mechanism broke. I have to reach through the window to open the door now. More homework tonight.
Doug
08-30-2011, 05:12 PM
#48
RL Community Team
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Doug,
It always seems like 2 steps forwards and 1 step back, doesn't it...
I had the front right sunroof tube shrink on me, and it disconnected at the firewall, so it would just drain on the carpet. I took out the glovebox and the side air vent, and I was able to use a piece of vinyl tubing and gray silicone to extend the hose to reattach it to the metal pass-through tube on the firewall. My guess would be that on the driver side you can have the same access by taking out the instrument cluster, which you already have out, so there's a little bit of good news!
If you want to take off the A-pillar trims, they are usually stuck on with some urethane (at least in my experience), if it's at the windshield, a razor blade might be a good idea, otherwise, I just gently pull. I don't know if you know this or not but the top screw for the pillar is vertical, despite the hole/well for that screw being aimed at an angle.
Those odometer motors don't break often but it's possible. Maybe you can check ebay for a cheap 928 or 944 speedometer and take the motor out of it, especially if you have an EE friend to help you.
When the driver outer door handle stops working, it's usually the linkage piece, and it's only about $13 from sunset, and fairly easy to change. The upside is that the handle will actually feel better with the new piece. p/n is 944 537 261 02 and I have an extra one if you want to buy it. I bought it from sunset but it didn't work on my old 944 door handle.
It always seems like 2 steps forwards and 1 step back, doesn't it...
I had the front right sunroof tube shrink on me, and it disconnected at the firewall, so it would just drain on the carpet. I took out the glovebox and the side air vent, and I was able to use a piece of vinyl tubing and gray silicone to extend the hose to reattach it to the metal pass-through tube on the firewall. My guess would be that on the driver side you can have the same access by taking out the instrument cluster, which you already have out, so there's a little bit of good news!
If you want to take off the A-pillar trims, they are usually stuck on with some urethane (at least in my experience), if it's at the windshield, a razor blade might be a good idea, otherwise, I just gently pull. I don't know if you know this or not but the top screw for the pillar is vertical, despite the hole/well for that screw being aimed at an angle.
Those odometer motors don't break often but it's possible. Maybe you can check ebay for a cheap 928 or 944 speedometer and take the motor out of it, especially if you have an EE friend to help you.
When the driver outer door handle stops working, it's usually the linkage piece, and it's only about $13 from sunset, and fairly easy to change. The upside is that the handle will actually feel better with the new piece. p/n is 944 537 261 02 and I have an extra one if you want to buy it. I bought it from sunset but it didn't work on my old 944 door handle.
08-30-2011, 11:27 PM
#49
OkRider
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Arash, thanks for the great idea on the sunroof drain tubes. The information I found on repairing them was kind of sketchy to me. If the A-pillar trims don't have to come off to access the tubes, well, that works for me. 
I guess I'll be going back to Oklahoma Foreign tomorrow and see if they have an odometer motor or cheap speedometer as you suggest. Dang, why didn't I think of that?
On the door handle problem, I'll have to look and see first what broke. Right now I'm looking at pages 57-1 through 57-9 in the factory workshop manual. Is the linkage piece you are describing the one that has the rivet connection? At any rate, Arash if you have the part I need I'd be happy to buy yours. I should know tomorrow evening what I need.
Doug
I guess I'll be going back to Oklahoma Foreign tomorrow and see if they have an odometer motor or cheap speedometer as you suggest. Dang, why didn't I think of that?
On the door handle problem, I'll have to look and see first what broke. Right now I'm looking at pages 57-1 through 57-9 in the factory workshop manual. Is the linkage piece you are describing the one that has the rivet connection? At any rate, Arash if you have the part I need I'd be happy to buy yours. I should know tomorrow evening what I need.
Doug
08-31-2011, 04:43 PM
#51
Doug,
When my door handle stopped working the door handle itself broke where the mechanism attaches to an ear on the handle (you'll see when you get the handle off). There are 2 ears on the door handle piece so I ended up attaching the mechanism to the other ear on the door handle. This worked for a few more years until that ear broke on the door handle (unfortunately it is made of pot metal). Then I was stuck with buying a new door handle and getting it painted.
- BB
When my door handle stopped working the door handle itself broke where the mechanism attaches to an ear on the handle (you'll see when you get the handle off). There are 2 ears on the door handle piece so I ended up attaching the mechanism to the other ear on the door handle. This worked for a few more years until that ear broke on the door handle (unfortunately it is made of pot metal). Then I was stuck with buying a new door handle and getting it painted.
- BB
