AZ968Cab

Been through this with a previous S2. Hoses and a lower temp thermostat, that's it right? Anything wierd about removal of the radiator? Anyone know best prices out there?

Much appreciated. Chris

josephsc

I'd also check the operation of the radiator fan, switch and relay. And make sure you have proper coolant and bleed correctly.

SpeedBump

are you sure you are running hot and not just looking at a bad reading on a gauge?

AZ968Cab

I've bled it after refilling with 50/50 coolant/water. I thought about water-wetter but didn't try.

The fans run fine at reasonably low temps. The fan wouldn't run with a faulty switch/relay right??

Jack at Stuttgart (best I've found over 10 years and 4 p-cars) mentioned that the metal in the radiator just loses its ability to resourcefully cool (I'm at 94K) over time. That man has talked me out of more maintenance than he's talked me into. Most honest, hard working P-guy I've found in Phoenix.

Chaos

I'll bet you have to bleed it better,blowing on that hole on top.Seriously.Air in the system.

AZ968Cab

Greg, as much as I hate to ask.... What hole? The radiator fill? I might have to call a couple old girlfriends for this one.

968workaholic

Did you check the radiator cap? Its a common thing to overlook. The bleeder screw is on the cast piece that the upper radiator hose goes to on the head.

notthd

I have fought this myself two times, once was the WP the second was air in the system. I have never heard that the metal looses it's cooling properties, more likely the air passageways become blocked- either way yours sounds like air in the system- if the fan are coming on it means the thermastat sounds like it is opening. When my WP went out the motor temps would peg but the radiator temp would not (I used 2 remote temp sensors)

Here is a diagram and instructions on how to bleed. The red arrow points on the bleeder bolt.- Cheers, Mike

ltc

^ + 1 , sounds like air locked