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Intermittent starting issues

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Old Nov 4, 2025 | 10:58 AM
  #1  
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Default Intermittent starting issues

Got a good one for you guys -- my car has developed an intermittent start issue. When it doesn't want to start, I get a click when I turn the key and then nothing. I can do this a few times in a row, and then, randomly it will start with no problems. When it doesn't want to start, voltage is fine, the power windows go up and down as they should. So I'm thinking there's a sensor issue somewhere?
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Old Nov 5, 2025 | 08:55 AM
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Sounds like you have a bad connection at the starter or battery, likely corrosion. Youll want to check and clean all your connections at both the starter and battery. If that doesnt solve it, then look at the cables themselves.

The low load systems, such as your windows work fine, but as soon as a high load is needed (such as activating the starter), the connection isnt strong enough. Quite common

Last edited by walfreyydo; Nov 5, 2025 at 08:56 AM.
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Old Nov 5, 2025 | 12:49 PM
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I had considered that, but when the starter does turn, it does so normally - no loss of power like I would think would happen with corrosion. I will check the exciter wire to the starter solenoid though. It's just odd that it works fine sometimes and then not at all other times. I do nothing physical in between other than raise and lower the windows.
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Old Nov 6, 2025 | 09:27 AM
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If you are 100% sure all your cable connections to the starter (not the solenoid connection, but the connection where the two main power wires connect as well as the ground connection surface between the starter housing to the bellhousing) and battery are clean and free of corrosion, and cables are good, then you may have a starter that is on its way out. If the starter is clicking, then its likely that the solenoid is activating (meaning your ignition switch is good and wiring/connection to solenoid is good), but the motor isnt turning over, either due to poor connection or its starting to fail.

Many auto parts stores will test your starter for free, (or you can bench test it yourself) so do that before buying a new one.

More info:
https://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-m...-01.htm#rotate

Last edited by walfreyydo; Nov 6, 2025 at 12:42 PM.
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Old Nov 6, 2025 | 08:46 PM
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I've struggled with similar issues with 968 coupe. Mechanic put a starter on it. Still happened while painter had, he put in a new battery. Still happened, mechanic decided it was the cable to the starter. Still happened once, but this last time I decided it was the battery just not connected properly (I disconnect the battery regularly since I don't drive this car).

Last edited by Eyeman; Nov 6, 2025 at 08:48 PM.
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Old Nov 7, 2025 | 09:18 AM
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Clean the T2 connector. It is a white plug located in the engine bay, at the firewall and near the brake booster.
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Old Nov 7, 2025 | 03:14 PM
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My 94 (93.5) randomly had a no start after purchase. Coming from a 914-6 I schooled up on the DME. Look on the interwebs for high quality DME. This is what I found as well as the cure.




https://www.ftech9.com/new-products/993-ssr-pp?srsltid=AfmBOopLdJpFAL6Lq0xsrNlGXprvvrwWY-slBvKs-RgRJlXJ5H_Bmbw1
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Old Nov 7, 2025 | 08:04 PM
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+1

One of the best purchases I have made. When the car sits for awhile, I pull the relay and battery (-) cable. When I want to activate it, I reconnect the battery and then turnover until I get oil pressure. Reinstall DME relay and away I go...

-Yogii
AKA 968 Novice
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Old Nov 8, 2025 | 06:29 AM
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While replacing the DME with a solid state one is on my list, pretty sure that's not the cause of my problem. Mine's an intermittent no crank issue, not a fuel issue.

I'm going to go through the electrical connections this weekend.
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Old Nov 8, 2025 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Gage
Clean the T2 connector. It is a white plug located in the engine bay, at the firewall and near the brake booster.
Are you referring to this one? The one that has one wire who's insulation has completely degraded?



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Old Nov 9, 2025 | 01:53 PM
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https://www.dcmachinist.com/product/...&category_id=5

Replace that cable. Not saying it will solve your current issue but 100% needs to be done and David makes great quality cables at reasonable price. This cable causes lots of additional head aches like car lurching forward or backward while parked with no key. The insolation deteriorates and causes arcing in the jacket.
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Old Nov 9, 2025 | 07:44 PM
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@jsheiry thanks for that link - a good resource. I have a MAF grille with a few missing teeth, so to speak. I replaced the battery cables a while ago, but David's look really nice.
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Old Nov 9, 2025 | 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by mbardeen
Are you referring to this one? The one that has one wire who's insulation has completely degraded?


That is absolutely the one.
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Old Nov 10, 2025 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Apex
@jsheiry thanks for that link - a good resource. I have a MAF grille with a few missing teeth, so to speak. I replaced the battery cables a while ago, but David's look really nice.
Fun fact - David's selling my MAF grill design (with my knowledge, of course). If you've got a 3D Printer, you can grab the model and print it yourself - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4598678
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