crash813

Just got done replacing the clutch and now the clutch pedal is acting funny. Basically doesn't completely return and then the rest of the way, there's this wierd notch with obviously not pushing pressure into the line. Feels like something is loose or worn out but not sure what I'm looking at. If someone has a diagram, it would be appreciated.

crash813

Climbed under there some more. I don't see anything missing or broken, but there is definately about an 1" travel of the rod into the master cylinder before I feel any pressure. Not sure if there should be adjustment of the rod or possibly air in the lines but will probably try bleeding them first. Don't know why simply replacing the clutch would of affected pedal travel or the hydraulics but will keep banging away i guess.

Zirconocene

Do you have a copy of PET? You can get it from here: https://www.porsche.com/usa/accessor...artscatalogue/

You can pick your car from the dropdown menu and get a pdf that has all kinds of great diagrams, including the one you're looking for. For example, for 89-91, you can find the diagram you're looking for on illustration 702-00. I don't know what year your car is, but I can get you a screen shot if you let me know.

ETA: I just realized which forum I was in (968, not 944, so no model years to worry about), but the point stands. PET will give you great diagrams for how things go together.

Cheers

chudson

The master cylinder rod is adjustable (is threaded), but only so that some free-play can be established between the pedal and the rod - or between the rod and the piston in the master - however you wish to view it. This is because the piston in the master cylinder must be at full rest position when the pedal is at rest. Any depression of the master cylinder piston would result in movement of the slave cylinder which could put the release bearing in constant contact with the pressure plate. Replacing clutch components could not affect the master cylinder adjustment.

I've performed many 968 clutch replacements. If all of the parts were correct and installed correctly, there should be no change in the point at which you feel resistance when depressing the clutch pedal. The only change I've ever experienced is that the pedal will become easier to depress with new bearings in the fork, a new fork pivot rod, the support sleeve cleaned and lubricated and a new factory (green strip) pressure plate. If you are absolutely certain that the hydraulic system was not opened, I fear something with the parts or the assembly is the cause. Keep us posted

Cliff

crash813

Bleeding the clutch seemed to solve the issue. Not sure if the fluid was low and jacking the car up might of let some air in, or the slave piston fully extending when it was removed, or a little bit of everything. But flushed and filled it up and it feels good again. There's a hitch at the first few inches of pedal movement that you don't really notice if you're already into the resistance, but without it, it feels really janky. Scared me a little bit.