Jfrahm

Hi all, I seem to be needing to replace 944-423-177-02 the rubber clutch pressure hose, $152 at Sunset. It looks to me like the $45 951 hose would work if I put the 90 degree bend in the metal "neck" of the line.
Or alternatively another tube nut could be put onto the 968 metal line and flared, then a brake line used for the rubber section. I think I have a brake line new in box that would work.
Any guidance on this?

I was in a parking lot when the clutch pedal went to the floor and stayed there. Toe-ing it back up I could get no clutch pressure. Made it home without a clutch, that was a challenge. Parked up I can see fluid on that line and drippage on the shop floor, which I can encourage with a power brake bleeder. Looks to be leaking at the upper crimp.

Cheers, -Joel.

royalschwarz

Just went and compared the two and the only difference I see is that the 968 metal line is about 2" shorter than the 951 line. The rubber portions are the same length. It seems to me you could cut a couple inches off the 951 metal end, bend it where you need it and flare the cut end to make the 968 line.

Or just keep the extra length and bend it slightly to keep it out of the way. Not like a couple extra inches ever hurt anyone.

Zirconocene

They can be a little tough to get a hold of, but calling usually works pretty well, if you ring these guys: http://www.precisionmtrwerks.com/products/products.htm (I just realized you probably already know about Greg and his products)

From what I understand they offer a replacement hose that should work for you, but I don't know how the price compares to the 951 part.

Cheers

Jfrahm

Thanks a lot! I ordered the 951 part, the 968 part was "special order" from Sunset so maybe not quick to get. $100 saved and less downtime this way. Cutting and flaring, bodging the old 968 metal neck onto a brake line would probably work and cost nearly nothing but I'm happier with the 951 part ($55 shipped) and some bending to get it to fit.

I ordered from eEuroparts.com aka partscontainer on Ebay. In the past I bought an S8 fuel pump from them and they got it to me in about a week.

I did not know Greg sold a 968 clutch line but his stuff seems somewhat bespoke and an off-the-shelf part should work fine for me. Will advise.
Cheers, -Joel.

jsheiry

Design 1 Racing had a hose IIRC that resembled a stainless braded brake line, ultimately flexible all the way from the reservoir to the clutch slave. Anybody know who made that for DR1 ?? Seemingly easy enough to reproduce by one of the brake line company's if an original length was supplied.

Also saw this custom hose company could reproduce to your spec, would be entirely flexible but looks like a quality driven company https://us.helperformance.com/custom...ed-brake-lines

dlearl476

Just about any company that makes hydraulic lines could press the current fittings on a new hose. Being a clutch line you shouldn’t have any problem. The local place I use, Eric’s, won’t do hydraulic brake lines, though. They cite liability issues.

IIRC, Eric’s is a national chain (that took over from the regional Evco) ad they stock most major manufacturers products, Gates, Cohline, Aeroquip, etc.

Jfrahm

The Design 9 hose might be an off-the-shelf part, maybe with some M-M adapters, someone took the time to match up. No need though if the 951 part fits and works. I do not see the point of a steel braided line there, only issue with mine was that it was 32 years old.
I tolerate the factory steel braided brake lines on my Triumph but generally am not a fan of them.

I thought about getting the hose part remade but figured the all-in cost including possibly 2 trips to the hydraulic line shop would be high vs. the 951 part appearing on my doorstep. I think the fittings would have to be cut up to remove the factory crimp part (seems integral to the rest of the fitting) and a new sleeve fitted. No big deal but I doubt anyone would take on the job for $50. If however the 968 part is really needed and slow to get for $150+ then that approach might make a lot of sense. Or cutting the neck off and dropping another tube nut on the neck, then flaring and using a 2003 Ford Escape brake line from there down.

Again, no need if the 951 part works well. My part is due to be delivered today but maybe more likely tomorrow.

Jfrahm

The 951 hose arrived, FedEx decided to let it spend the weekend at their warehouse in Aurora but no harm done. I was able to roll a tight bend into it near the flare nut and to change a few other bends to prevent a P-trap effect from the extra length.
Installation was tiresome, bleeding also tiresome but a pressure bleeder helped.

One trick that helped was to get the top of the old line undone at the clutch master, and then drop a 19mm box wrench over the hose to put on the counterholding flats on the lower end at the middle flare nut. This made dropping the 19mm onto my teeth less likely as I struggled in the tight confines to pop the middle flare nut loose. Obviously you can't do that for reassembly as you'd trap your 19mm but you don't really need as much torque at that point, I just needed a bit to unstick the 30yo connections and it's a one-handed job with two wrenches in play.
Also of course use a 12mm flare nut wrench and not an open-end or risk rounding off a flare nut.

Pressure bleeding only really got me half a clutch but taking it for a drive in that state seemed to work out any last bubbles. Back in business.

It looks like it'd work to repair by cutting the metal "neck" off the original part, dropping another flare nut on the metal line, then flaring the cut off line. this would create a short curved section of line with a flare not on either end. Then using a brake hose down from there would also work just fine. A 951/968 brake line would probably work or maybe a 2003 or so Ford Escape. Better IMO than $150 for a special order part, plus shipping, unknown lead time. But $55 for the 951 part is less of a kludge and I don't own a flaring tool.

Thanks for the help!
-Joel.

Jfrahm

Followup on this. I'd read that the key to a good clutch feel is to get it working and then drive it despite it feeling a bit "off". I agree with this, I was never really happy with the pedal feel until I drove the car a few times. Initially it clearly had more freeplay but then felt about right after one good drive. After that I would find myself thinking "is this freeplay the same as before?" at some point on a drive. That feeling went away after maybe 5 drives. Pump the clutch while braking hard, find some hills...

It might be a good thing for anyone who might need clutch work in the future to measure and write down the freeplay they have now.

Maybe using a lift or getting the rear of the car higher than the front for bleeding, then pressure bleed, then vacuum bleed (?) would also do it but if you get half a clutch I say drive it before getting too frustrated.
If I have to do the job again I think I prefer the idea of cutting the stock metal line and adding a flare nut to it, then using a section of brake hose below that. However the 951 part can be made to work with a proper bending tool or good, supportive home made analogue.