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After driving it, the temp looks more like I think it should in 21F weather. The heater is excellent in this car! Now if I can just solve the dreaded "fuel gauge doesn't read right" conundrum. The tank is full, I've cleaned the footballs etc., took out the sender that a previous mechanic nearly destroyed and staightened it up. I checked the resistance while sliding the float and it looks good to me. It ran up and down through the values that I found somewhere online. I'll probably have to bite the bullet on this one though and buy a new sender sometime. I suspect the old float is probably not floating as high as it should. I used to see that on old Triumphs, one of my previous sources of headaches. The only thing I have to do with Triumphs any more is making these.
I swapped my Z3M back into the garage today after not driving it since I began this job on the 968. Luckily my driveway was downhill as I had to roll-start in 2nd gear. Then the battery came up fine in a few minutes. It's amazing how different these two cars feel. The Z3M is like a Panzer tank. It feels more solid and refined. The 968 feels looser with the non-direct gear selection and maybe just being a little older (six years). The 968 feels more raw. Though the 968 doesn't feel as tight, I have no doubt which one will handle corners better - the 968. That Z3M will throw the rear out so fast it'll make your head spin if you don't keep the DSC turned on. Both will be fun. I was originally going to drive both a while and sell one or the other. I don't think I can now. I like them both. Good thing my daily driver is a Toyota though
After driving it, the temp looks more like I think it should in 21F weather. The heater is excellent in this car! Now if I can just solve the dreaded "fuel gauge doesn't read right" conundrum. The tank is full, I've cleaned the footballs etc., took out the sender that a previous mechanic nearly destroyed and staightened it up. I checked the resistance while sliding the float and it looks good to me. It ran up and down through the values that I found somewhere online. I'll probably have to bite the bullet on this one though and buy a new sender sometime. I suspect the old float is probably not floating as high as it should. I used to see that on old Triumphs, one of my previous sources of headaches. The only thing I have to do with Triumphs any more is making these.
I swapped my Z3M back into the garage today after not driving it since I began this job on the 968. Luckily my driveway was downhill as I had to roll-start in 2nd gear. Then the battery came up fine in a few minutes. It's amazing how different these two cars feel. The Z3M is like a Panzer tank. It feels more solid and refined. The 968 feels looser with the non-direct gear selection and maybe just being a little older (six years). The 968 feels more raw. Though the 968 doesn't feel as tight, I have no doubt which one will handle corners better - the 968. That Z3M will throw the rear out so fast it'll make your head spin if you don't keep the DSC turned on. Both will be fun. I was originally going to drive both a while and sell one or the other. I don't think I can now. I like them both. Good thing my daily driver is a Toyota though
My 968 when cold shows the OP pegged at 5. When warm, barely registers 1 at idle and then 3 under load. HTH.
Could just be the oil viscosity. I use 15-45. I understand that the 968 need high pressure because of few oil galleys in the head do not feed real well.
Could just be the oil viscosity. I use 15-45. I understand that the 968 need high pressure because of few oil galleys in the head do not feed real well.
I've spent hours trying to find the connector pins to make the solenoid and alternator exciter wires. I can find what I think is the connector socket on the main loom behind the brake booster (Part # N0175994), but I can't find the male piece to plug into it or the plastic socket which is what would be needed to make kits readily available. Like several other items, they probably forgot to put them into the PET.
Since I can't locate these, the only cable I can supply anyone would be the alt-starter cable. If I make them, I plan on using #4 welding cable instead of the #3 Polyrad XT because some people will want to retain the original routing and the #4 welding cable is quite a bit more flexible. #4 welding cable is still an enormous improvement over the original. I would still wrap it in PET sleeve and double heat-shrink the ends.
01-19-2020, 06:39 PM
