gtolou

(I posted most of this in response to a query from another member - thought I make it's own thread for those w/ header interests...)

RS Barn, 1 3/4 headers. Went with smaller 1 3/4 vs 1 7/8. I want to keep some torque in there - this is street, not a max high-RPM deal. So - went with smaller primaries. Pete threw in a test pipe for a discount. I have a 3" cat back that was on the car. Pete is super helpful. The stainless headers are a work of art. Welds are beautiful. NIce thick flange. I pulled the top row of studs - looks clean. That and stage II chip. The new chip is very streetable. One of best things - is that he had them to me in like, 2-3 weeks.

Sounds great - maybe a bit of rasp at 2800-2900 RPM. At low RPM's - there is no hesitation or stumble. Clearly, the real seat of the pants pull improvement is from 4000-6000RPM. I don't have dyno sheets - Pete has those on his site. Stabbing the throttle and rowing through gears sounds great. Not overly loud at all at cruise speeds/RPMs. Very happy with it.

I will say this - pulling off the factory exhaust, 4 into 2 into one, is pretty well made - just looking at it. Pete said the factory cat flows well, but removed that too for test pipe. I grew up w/ a 442 and Trans Am's - putting headers on is just what you do.... but, I am impressed w/ the factory unit it looks high flow.

gtolou

Install wasn't too bad. I soaked the studs/nuts with PB blaster for a month or so. Three or so of the studs backed out w/ the nuts. No biggie. There is a coolant manifold or something over the top set of studs. Better to remove.

The circular exhaust seals come out w/ small flat-head screw driver. Held new ones in w/ a few dabs of high temp sealant. They won't stay in without. There is a heat sheild up front that gets in way a tiny bit. Basically 13mm ratchet w/ short extension. That and standard box 13mm wrench. Surprised the install torque is like 18ft/lbs. Takes much more to free old nuts than 18ft/lbs. Takes more like 25ft/lbs to free them. Maybe more.

The old exhaust manifold is held in w/ three studs/bolts per pipe. Two with new one. I bought some new copper nuts - I did NOT use those. Factory locking nuts seemed way better and secure. Since I needed 8 bolts - I re-used best eight. Locking nuts were still in very, very good shape. Esp best eight. I used two studs to hold the coolant manifold in upon re-install.

I have a four post lift. Lol - you have to have that. Battery disconnected the whole time obviously - you need to check starter wires and may have to clock those in a different direction as close to header. I can't help if you are still running a cat - I put header in, test pipe, bolted to four bolt flange. Adjust all fixation points/hangers to keep the kit in centered and high and nice.


Biggest casualty is that my caster blocks look like crap - need to replace those (another thread coming, I guess).

Hope this helps.

sm

Thanks for the post on the headers. Really thinking about these in the future.

Boeing 717

Yea thank you. A video of sound would be awesome.

H.F.B.

+1
and photos/video how everything fits would be even more awesome.